CMS tuned, forged 347 smog legal build dyno + smog results (pics)
#1
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CMS tuned, forged 347 smog legal build dyno + smog results (pics)
Finally got my forged 347/Xtreme Lvl-2 4L60E setup tuned at CMS after driving around on a street tune for almost a year. Link to detailed build info at the bottom of the page. The drivability and MPG is noticeably better. Car feels much quicker, now that the transmission shift points have been corrected and the car is making more HP/TQ than it was the street tune. The motor also doesn't stall or try to stall when shifting into Reverse like it used to with the street tune. I should have done this much sooner for the drivability issues alone... I'm very happy with the tune and how the car drives now. Car made 355rwhp/350rwtq an Xtreme Transmissions 4L60E + billet 3200 stall converter and stock cats. It is forged with future forced induction in mind (just need to change cylinder heads). For comparison, a friends car made 366rwhp on the same dyno, with LS6 intake, milled stock 241s, 228R 112LSA cam, longtubes + ORY, through a 3800 stall, Xtreme built 4L60E and old O2 sensors, and was running 7.4s at Irwindale.
"Stock" LS1 setup: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ar/D_30044.jpg
New setup:
I took it to get smogged a few days later in the high desert (it's registered out there, and the smog tests are less strict). It passed the visual, and then passed the sniffer just like when it was stock. Big thanks to Ryne for tuning it to run properly & efficiently:
The motor was not built by CMS (they should be able to get way more power out of a smog legal NA build if you were to ask them to). It is cammed, forged, and built for boost (up to 750whp), and has on it a set of unported 241s that had been milled 0.045" to compensate for the dish on the pistons until I go FI and I change the heads to drop compression. Should be roughly 10.3:1 SCR right now, DCR is within recommended range.
Full build list here: http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=30044
"Stock" LS1 setup: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ar/D_30044.jpg
New setup:
I took it to get smogged a few days later in the high desert (it's registered out there, and the smog tests are less strict). It passed the visual, and then passed the sniffer just like when it was stock. Big thanks to Ryne for tuning it to run properly & efficiently:
The motor was not built by CMS (they should be able to get way more power out of a smog legal NA build if you were to ask them to). It is cammed, forged, and built for boost (up to 750whp), and has on it a set of unported 241s that had been milled 0.045" to compensate for the dish on the pistons until I go FI and I change the heads to drop compression. Should be roughly 10.3:1 SCR right now, DCR is within recommended range.
Full build list here: http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=30044
Last edited by ZexGX; 03-30-2012 at 06:15 PM.
#2
Your engine did really good, SMOG and performance wise concidering the exhaust flow restrictions it has to have actually passed Smog.
FYI, now all you need to do is buy my NIB 224/224 114lsa+3 cam w/XFI lobes.
FYI, now all you need to do is buy my NIB 224/224 114lsa+3 cam w/XFI lobes.
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Thanks. Still got a long way to go...
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#11
That was me I ran 7.44 at 92.5 with a 1.60 60' I had ordered my stall from FTI based on what was done to my car it was a little heavier converter due to it being a daily driven car as well so it took abuse well.
I would launch at about 2k rpms or whatever the brakes would hold. I also ran 16" rims (stock camaro 5 spokes) and mickey thompson ET street radials out back and removed my sway bar each time I went to the track. I still kept full interior as well.
#12
Stick throwing down 2.2-2.3 60 foots. My car launches like ****. My tune is off it like bogs off the line a bit. I know it could run better i just think 1.5 seconds faster with 50 less whp I need to keep my *** off the track
#13
It's all good doing with a stick car is harder and if you have a 10 bolt it's better you don't just dump the clutch on launch lol.
You should see better times, if you got your 60' down to 1.7/1.8 I think you would drop into the 7's easily. Who tuned the car?
And it's only like 1 second faster... Also if we were to dyno my car now as with a t56 in it, I am sure we would be a lot closer in HP, besides HP doesn't mean much it's based off your Torque, also I was having HP robbed through that 4l60e but I was better able to put the power down.
You should see better times, if you got your 60' down to 1.7/1.8 I think you would drop into the 7's easily. Who tuned the car?
And it's only like 1 second faster... Also if we were to dyno my car now as with a t56 in it, I am sure we would be a lot closer in HP, besides HP doesn't mean much it's based off your Torque, also I was having HP robbed through that 4l60e but I was better able to put the power down.
#14
I have 799's and a tv2 so I make a bit more hp from that. Cal speed tuned it had some issues with my set up. Still do I need a nick Williams tbody and a retune and I should be solid. That being said from a roll I'm pretty tough to beat car doesn't bog from a roll and those extra gears fly.
#16
I had a 85 pro products tb it was made shitty. I sold it bought a ported stocker. I hate it because its not as responsive. I was tuned on the big one though. Get 799 same **** as 243's just stronger valves (depending on if they are sodium filled if the 243 aren't sodium valves they are identical). I picked them up cheap too.