226 114 - Emissions?
226 114 - Emissions? Anyone pass emissions with this cam? Seeing how easy some people have passed with the 224 114 I dont see why this cam should not pass. Curious to hear your guy's opinions on this cam as far as my chances of passing emissions here in California. Do I have a chance you think?
I really want to put a cam in my car, but for some reason I dont want to go with the 224 cam. I want something a little bigger, I would love to able to go with the 226 instead.
TIA for the help
I really want to put a cam in my car, but for some reason I dont want to go with the 224 cam. I want something a little bigger, I would love to able to go with the 226 instead.
TIA for the help
thinking of going with some stage 1 or 2 heads as well - along with a 100 shot (wet).
Also when I go in for the testing I will most likely put back on the stock manifolds...dont know if that helps or not.
Is any of this possible in Cali?
Also when I go in for the testing I will most likely put back on the stock manifolds...dont know if that helps or not.
Is any of this possible in Cali?
I think the most you can go is 224 but i have heard that 229 is possible..Also take in fact you will need a custom tune for smog and for performance if you do go big. I believe you can at least get the cam thats in the new ls2 motor..
YOu can go with a 226 on a 112lsa and still pass smog with good tuning. Rick at Synergy is the one to go with if you want that cam. He can also do a 224-228 114lsa if you wanted to go that route. I havent gotten this done due to monatary problems but as soon as things come around i am going to. I have talked to Rick through this sight and because he has a dyno that can keep the cars loaded at any rpm so it is easier to tune. Talk to him for more info
Yeah I was looking into Synergy to see how close they were. Ummmm 300 plus miles is a little out of my way for a tune. I would love to go there but thats insane.
Thanks for all the help I appreciate it.
Anyone have any suggestions as far as someone closer to me? Who would be the best you think?
Thanks for all the help I appreciate it.
Anyone have any suggestions as far as someone closer to me? Who would be the best you think?
yeah but at least you can drive the car easy up to synergy and give it the time it needs to break the new parts in, just put some 30lbs injectors on so you make sure you arent leaning it out.
If you are really set on this set up then go with the best person to tune it, the guy that has made the stuff pass before.
If you are really set on this set up then go with the best person to tune it, the guy that has made the stuff pass before.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: San Diego, CA
a 226 should be fine. my cam passed with room to spare, and that was with the power tune. if i had to do it again, id get a 228/228 .581/.581 112 and just de-tune for smog time. but a 226 will be fine so long your cats are still good!
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: San Diego
226 on a 112 has positive overlap, it might be possible but that would be the very extreme edge most likely. Not worth the risk if you're trying to pass for reals. The difference will be negligible. If you want to push the envelope passing smog just go with a 228/230 on a 116 or something... 
I want atleast a little lope to the cam atleast...a 112 will give me what I really want but I am going to have to make due with a 114 lsa instead. I think that the 226 on a 114 lsa is pushing it enough, going bigger might not be that best of a choice.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: San Diego
Its all in the overlap.... you can run longer durations as long as they are seperated enough... cam selection all depends on your goals, if you aren't going max effort and just want drivability and emissions, thats why a lot run the 224/224/114. For max effort NA, I'd run a 232/228/116 or 117 or a 228/224/115, it would have negative overlap and still smog with a tune. For emissions with a mean lope NA I'd do a 224/220/112 or a 224/224/112 (which at 0 overlap would be close but probably pass). The 224/220 would be biased towards the intake (help out NA with limited intake flow like LS6 intake/ medium grade heads). The problem with staying smog legal is that you're extremely limited on the exhaust side, so a reverse split might not always be the best unless you have longtubes to help make the most of the smaller exhaust duration. Thats why the 224/224 works pretty well. If you are going to keep it smog legal, the best you could do would be JBA or similar shorties and you might even want to bias towards the exhaust if you run an LS6 intake and good heads, so maybe even a 220/224/112 for a lope or a 224/228/115 for more power.
Keep in mind we are talking about staying smog legal enough to pass at any smog station w/out hookups or overlooking mods. If you want to push the envelope with longtubes, that can change what cam you might want to look at running, but at that point why bother and just make enough friends till you can run whatever you want, then just go crazy.
Cam selection is what makes your car so make sure you build your cam around your other mods.
Keep in mind we are talking about staying smog legal enough to pass at any smog station w/out hookups or overlooking mods. If you want to push the envelope with longtubes, that can change what cam you might want to look at running, but at that point why bother and just make enough friends till you can run whatever you want, then just go crazy.
Cam selection is what makes your car so make sure you build your cam around your other mods.
Originally Posted by Bombguy99z28
Its all in the overlap.... you can run longer durations as long as they are seperated enough... cam selection all depends on your goals, if you aren't going max effort and just want drivability and emissions, thats why a lot run the 224/224/114. For max effort NA, I'd run a 232/228/116 or 117 or a 228/224/115, it would have negative overlap and still smog with a tune. For emissions with a mean lope NA I'd do a 224/220/112 or a 224/224/112 (which at 0 overlap would be close but probably pass). The 224/220 would be biased towards the intake (help out NA with limited intake flow like LS6 intake/ medium grade heads). The problem with staying smog legal is that you're extremely limited on the exhaust side, so a reverse split might not always be the best unless you have longtubes to help make the most of the smaller exhaust duration. Thats why the 224/224 works pretty well. If you are going to keep it smog legal, the best you could do would be JBA or similar shorties and you might even want to bias towards the exhaust if you run an LS6 intake and good heads, so maybe even a 220/224/112 for a lope or a 224/228/115 for more power.
Keep in mind we are talking about staying smog legal enough to pass at any smog station w/out hookups or overlooking mods. If you want to push the envelope with longtubes, that can change what cam you might want to look at running, but at that point why bother and just make enough friends till you can run whatever you want, then just go crazy.
Cam selection is what makes your car so make sure you build your cam around your other mods.
Keep in mind we are talking about staying smog legal enough to pass at any smog station w/out hookups or overlooking mods. If you want to push the envelope with longtubes, that can change what cam you might want to look at running, but at that point why bother and just make enough friends till you can run whatever you want, then just go crazy.
Cam selection is what makes your car so make sure you build your cam around your other mods.
Thanks for help by the way
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: San Diego
Its a good cam, basically a 224 but a tad bigger... I considered it back in the day when selecting my cam.
You'll be fine on a 100 shot, although keep in mind that limits of the stock fuel system. I wouldn't push over 500rwhp through the stock fuel pump.
You'll be fine on a 100 shot, although keep in mind that limits of the stock fuel system. I wouldn't push over 500rwhp through the stock fuel pump.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: San Diego
Who knows... heh... I just fired it up last week and fixed the exhaust rattle and washed it today... probably tune it this week and maybe make a couple passes at the Q the 14th. Haven't even gotten on it yet cause I got crappy gas in there and the compression probably won't like it.
I have serious clutch issues, I'm going to bleed it again and see if I can get some pedal back.
I have serious clutch issues, I'm going to bleed it again and see if I can get some pedal back.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 618
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From: San Diego
Well, I spent most of the morning playing with the idle, I'm running into some difficulty bringing my IAC count down, it wants to sit at 100-110... soo it looks like I may have to play with my set screw.
Pulled about 6 degrees of timing and richened it up a bit to do a safe shakedown cruise, nothing fell off the car and it seems pretty good, although it looks like I have an exhaust leak around my drivers side header... not surprised since I had the headers on and off about 5 times in the last 2 months.
The only KR I get is at part throttle transitions, I'm going to start verifying my VE tune tonight after class, then figure out my MAF issues.
The car had half a tank of six month old 91 octane gas in it and I'm running 11.8:1 compression...
As far as dynoing, I don't think I can squeeze any dyno time out of my unemployment checks at the moment...
Pulled about 6 degrees of timing and richened it up a bit to do a safe shakedown cruise, nothing fell off the car and it seems pretty good, although it looks like I have an exhaust leak around my drivers side header... not surprised since I had the headers on and off about 5 times in the last 2 months.
The only KR I get is at part throttle transitions, I'm going to start verifying my VE tune tonight after class, then figure out my MAF issues.
The car had half a tank of six month old 91 octane gas in it and I'm running 11.8:1 compression...
As far as dynoing, I don't think I can squeeze any dyno time out of my unemployment checks at the moment...