Phoenix F & Y Bodies FTMFW! *Week 8 - 7/10/06*
07-13-2006, 11:03 PM
#421
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think i nipped the plugs the first time out at the track on the bottle? i blew the line last sat at the street car shootout 
didn't even get to make a run on a killer prep track!!
jason, do you still need to get bottles filled?
didn't even get to make a run on a killer prep track!!jason, do you still need to get bottles filled?
07-13-2006, 11:08 PM
#422
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: somewhere that doesn't get snow
Posts: 3,455
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
LET'S SEE!!!!!
iamgay
buttlvr
inthbut
***-frc
gayprde
frc-ftl
lickazz
igtrapd (i got raped) by a stock vert)
iamgay
buttlvr
inthbut
***-frc
gayprde
frc-ftl
lickazz
igtrapd (i got raped) by a stock vert)
based on the comments chris made a few weeks back, i still think he needs some variation of
DMBASS
DUMASS
NOFUEL
NOGAS
FUELOUT
EMPTY
or maybe
NOHUD (ie if he had hud he wouldnt have run outa gas)
ok ive got back to the future on the brain i just came up with the perfect plate for chris, and a funny quote too
"you mean we're out of nos???? without nitros oxide, we cant get the corvette up to 125mph"
and the plate....
OUTANOS
Last edited by 1995blacktattop; 07-13-2006 at 11:18 PM.
07-14-2006, 12:19 AM
#425
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: phoenix
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JAG
Nah, I already have Patriot heads on it which should be good. Thanks though...
so you have stock heads that have been overported to the point where you make no additional power until the .600 lift range and just lose all your lowend...
Ok...
07-14-2006, 02:04 AM
#427
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I thought it was, but when I decoded the RPO's it came up as DMS. Either way they are probably the same. We'll have to line it up next to Greg's in the daylight one of these days.
07-14-2006, 02:16 AM
#428
SPAM HUNTER
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 4,100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WhiteStripes
That's what I thought it was, but when I decoded the RPO's it came up as DMS. Either way they are probably the same. We'll have to line it up next to Greg's in the daylight one of these days.
Dustin
07-14-2006, 02:43 AM
#434
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Surprise
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mike your gay for getting rid of your car. I will request that you get banned from here. 
Less than 24hrs until Vegas! Can not wait for it, 6 of the phz crew and who knows how many of the kingman crew.
Chris
Less than 24hrs until Vegas! Can not wait for it, 6 of the phz crew and who knows how many of the kingman crew.
Chris
07-14-2006, 02:47 AM
#436
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Surprise
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jason- were in litchfield park do you live? Did not know you were on the west side. Me and you should race....just put your stock cam back in to make it fair.
Chris
Chris
07-14-2006, 02:57 AM
#437
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NBMgreg
heck ya im down with that... im researching which ones work the best now... from what ive learned, most scratch removers found in stores are only fillers, and the swirls will be right back when you wash the car again... we need an abrasive polish, that levels out the clear which completely removes the swirls, but im not sure which polish is the best. we also need a orbital buffer, like a porter cable, that wont burn the clearcoat.
Okay, lets start with teh (inebriated) basics.
First off, you need to level off the paint surface. Claybars are teh most popular route, as they take out a lot of surface crapola, which is most of what you see. i prefer to wetsand, but Wetsanding is not just a 3 hour job, mind you. It's very involved, and it takes lots of time and patience, and quite a bit of confidence in knowing that you are taking sandpaper to your clearcoat. You have to be gentle with it or you will ruin the paint.
Then, if you decide that route, go over it with a 3M compound, Perfect it 3000 Rubbing compound with a wool wheel on a adjustable buffer (NOT an orbital). Get it to where the surface looks like it coudl have some sheen back to it, but don't press it into the paint while buffing, you can easily burn up your paint that way, and then its off to teh paint booth.
After that, take some foam pad polish from 3M, light or dark color, whatever you car color is (I've heard that the dark color formula actually works a bit better for lighter colors as well), and boff it until you get a very close to glassy sheen out of it. Work the compound back and forth into the paint, until there is very littel or no material left on the paint. This means that the compound has done its job. If it still appears dull, use another swipe at it and it should clear up nicely.
After that, THEN you can use whatever sealants, glazes or yellow waxes you want. The most important thing about this process is your ATTENTION TO DETAIL. If you are willing to go through this, you must first realize what your paint quality is. If you know it is ******* to you, and everyone else says that it looks like *******, you do NOT have the level of detail required to do this. When your car looks absolutely FLAWLESS to others, and you still think it looks terrible, then you probably know exactly how horrible your factory paint is.
On other words, don't expect perfection. Just get it good enough to live with. Most, if not all people, will be impressed with your paint.
There's a lot more to paint care to explain, but that is more detail than I would like to go into right now. So, goodnight from Arizona, stay classy Avondale!
