Failed CA Smog!!!!!!! Help Please
Failed CA Smog!!!!!!! Help Please I have the mods in my sig. so I knew I had to put all the stock stuff back on since I couldn't find anyone to help me out with smog. So it takes me two days to rip everything apart and put it back together and pay someone to weld the stock catback up again! The car is already past due on smog and I finally got some time off to get it smoged today and guess what it failed. It passed everything except the NO (PPM) part of the test where ave is 57 and 50/max is 414 and 701/ and I tested 719 and 657 so I failed at 15mph but passed at 25mph. I am so upset I took so much time and money putting this thing back together and it still failed. The car only has 45000 miles on it and the stock exhaust only has 30-35K on it. I passed every other test with flying colors and I am throwing no codes although the rear O2's and EGR codes are turned off due to the long tubes that I had. Can anyone help me out as to what the proplem could be sorry for the long post but this just happened and Im still upset.
Where is the 310 area because that would be great if this isint a quick fix. Also I hooked everything back up the way it was stock but my long tubes are race style without hookups so the codes were turned off for the EGR and rear O2's when I had it tuned.
Originally Posted by BigDaddyBry
Your tune is on the rich side now, right?
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Originally Posted by 2000taws6
Not sure if it is rich or not Rob at strictly performance did some minor tunning on the car when I got the exhaust done. It isint dyno tuned I just got the codes deleted and he added some fuel and timing for me. I don't know if it is running rich now or not.
might be your problem
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Did I read your post right that the only thing you're failing on is NO? This is Oxides of Nitrogen and they will go up with high combustion temperatures. In almost all cases, NO is a result of a malfunction in the EGR system, which recirculates some exhaust gasses back into the intake to cool combustion temperature. So the main thing to look at is your EGR system. Is your EGR valve hooked up and working properly? It's on the right side of the engine compartment and out in the open, easy to access. You might even want to pull it out and check it to see if it's plugged up or if the passages below it are plugged up. That happens a lot with EGR systems, since they are recirculating corrosive exhaust gasses. Often plugged EGR valves or passages will not set codes.
Another thought. High combustion temperatures can also be caused by combustion chamber hot-spots. I've had good luck in the past with GM Top Engine Cleaner, which used to be available through GM dealers (but it's been 10 years since I've bought any). If that stuff is still available, and you can find a way to dump it into the intake without messing up the MAF, you might want to give it a try. I know I got a couple of cars that were out of range on NO to pass the test just by running some of this stuff through the engine. It really does clean out the carbon.
Thanks for the reply it really helped, and yes only the NO is failing emissions. My EGR may be turned off completly via my tune for the LT's it is hooked up now, but that is a definate possibility. Also I have been reading in the maintenace section in one of the stickies about seafoam and how it cleans the engine/reduces emissions. Do you think this is worth a shot.
Does anyone in the Bakersfield area have LS1 edit or any other tunning software that could help me see if my EGR is turned off completly or if my car is running extra rich?
Does anyone in the Bakersfield area have LS1 edit or any other tunning software that could help me see if my EGR is turned off completly or if my car is running extra rich?
That Seafoam treatment where you feed it into the brake booster sounds like what we used to do with the GM Top Engine Cleaner. It makes sense to pour it into the brake booster hose so it will bypass the MAF (with carbureted or TBI cars we used to pour it directly down the carb/throttle body).
I doubt fuel trim is going to be very much of your problem (since you're not high on HC or CO), except that a richer mixture increases your liklihood of carbon accumulation. Remember that NO level is generally an indicator of EGR function.
Keep me posted on how it goes. I just got my renewal notice in the mail last night. I've been flagged for Test Only this time.
I doubt fuel trim is going to be very much of your problem (since you're not high on HC or CO), except that a richer mixture increases your liklihood of carbon accumulation. Remember that NO level is generally an indicator of EGR function.
Keep me posted on how it goes. I just got my renewal notice in the mail last night. I've been flagged for Test Only this time.
I just unhooked the part of the EGR that goes to the intake, put a freeze plug in its place, and then started the car and no air was being pushed through the EGR tube. I pulled the EGR completely off and checked to see if it was pluged and it wasn't so I believe it is turned off via tunning, which would explain everything. Now I need to find someone with tunning software to turn the EGR system back on. The guy that turned it off lives over 100 miles away!!!!
Running the car in Neutral will not activate the EGR, anyhow. EGR only operates under load. Even accelerating the engine in Neutral won't usually operate it. That's why California has gone to the dyno-style testing where they can put a load on the rear wheels during the test and effectively test the EGR system.
If you take your car to any decently-equipped shop, they should be able to hook up a scan tool and check to see if EGR is being requested by the PCM. That would probably tell you if it's in the tune or not.
As a way to just pass the test, I'm thinking you could probably remove the valve and cut the portion of the gasket between the inlet and outlet ports. That way, there will be some exhaust gas flow at all times. You could even put another cut gasket in there to shim it up for additional flow, if necessary. It will run like crap at idle, but the test is only at speed, so there shouldn't be any adverse effect during the test. Then, of course, you would get it fixed right after the test (I feel like I have to say that, since I'm an L1 certificate holder). I've seen where people put props in their old-style vacuum EGR valves to hold them open a little bit during the test.
If you take your car to any decently-equipped shop, they should be able to hook up a scan tool and check to see if EGR is being requested by the PCM. That would probably tell you if it's in the tune or not.
As a way to just pass the test, I'm thinking you could probably remove the valve and cut the portion of the gasket between the inlet and outlet ports. That way, there will be some exhaust gas flow at all times. You could even put another cut gasket in there to shim it up for additional flow, if necessary. It will run like crap at idle, but the test is only at speed, so there shouldn't be any adverse effect during the test. Then, of course, you would get it fixed right after the test (I feel like I have to say that, since I'm an L1 certificate holder). I've seen where people put props in their old-style vacuum EGR valves to hold them open a little bit during the test.
Originally Posted by 30th droptop
As a way to just pass the test, I'm thinking you could probably remove the valve and cut the portion of the gasket between the inlet and outlet ports. That way, there will be some exhaust gas flow at all times. You could even put another cut gasket in there to shim it up for additional flow, if necessary. It will run like crap at idle, but the test is only at speed, so there shouldn't be any adverse effect during the test. Then, of course, you would get it fixed right after the test (I feel like I have to say that, since I'm an L1 certificate holder). I've seen where people put props in their old-style vacuum EGR valves to hold them open a little bit during the test.
Originally Posted by 2000taws6
Wouldn't that make the engine want to stall because of too much Back pressure.