k member broke!
k member broke! so my tubular k member gave out on me today. it snapped this morning and i cant drive my car any more. why would that happen? does any one have a tubular k member for an ls1 that they want to sell?
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Verdad Gallardo i dont really remember what brand it is to be honest. ive been driving on it for a little under a year. i still havent dyno tuned my car so i dont know what numbers im putting down for torque, but my guess is its an ok number. i hope to make it on sunday chris but i'll see. i talked to rob and he said i should be good just getting it welded but if that doesnt work out ill hit you up black02.
its a joke thats been running amongst a few of us. i personally hate umi's tech guy's and or salesmen, they lie, but as for the quality and fitment of the product you cant beat them, i have a umi cross braced t/a on my camaro, besides it hanging very low and banging the floor board when i hit 2nd hard i love it ,great adjustability and very strong and heavy, im sure it will come in handy when i start making big power or beating it with sub 1.6 60's
Thanks,
Ryan
Hello... do you care to go into detail on how we lied to you? I understand you are not happy with your torque arm because it is too noisy for you but I am still confused on how anyone lied to you? To be honest I don't even know who you are or remember ever talking to you. But I do remember the name as someone who complains in a lot of UMI threads because your item is noisy and I always reply... is this why you hate me? Glad you can joke about our K-member breaking because your torque arm hits the floor... which BTW is common with every brand torque arm... BMR, Spohn, Random.. there all the same. It also appears your vehicle is lowered? This is another reason why the torque arm hits in the rear, the lower the car goes the closer it gets to the tunnel area. Factory height springs will help prevent this... also do you have a adjustable panhard bar? This can be used to center the rear end for additional clearance.
with the t/a i have, i pm'd back and forth on what adjustments that would be great for a stock car that had been lowered. i was told to set pinion angle at -1*to -3*. well come to find out, that works great for guys at the track, some running much more - than i was, but for my application the proper adjustment should have been +3*. i called back to confirm and was told that i should be in the -'s. still. also a side note, running your driveshaft at that alsmost straight angle causes extra wear on the u joints and prolonged driveline vibration, like the kind my car had at any speed over 80 would also cause extra wear and or damage to my transmission.
at that point i went into the +'s. and now its perfect, doesnt bang the floorboard, doesnt vibrate my teeth out, car rides perfect. i have not been to a track yet to see if my 60's suffered but so far i have had 2 experiences with umi customer service and tech team, both times have not been great.
Thank you, I am glad it is working for you... as for it hanging low it needs to. That item is built to clear virtually all long tube header systems and there is a ton of them on the market... it needs to be that low in order to clear them, some y-pipes still rub that cross-member. If it wasn't people would be complaining because there exhaust won't clear it, correct? If you want a front set-up that tucks up tighter I suggest switching your exhaust to a Kooks or ARH long tube set-up... this system will run you $1300.00 but will clear with our other torque arm and will take care of your rubbing issues- www.umiperformance.com/2201 If you ever switch exhaust systems out let me know and I will hook you up on a straight front mount.
yes it does, i love the arm now that i have the correct pinion angle for my application.
I think that UMI piece could take whatever's thrown at it man, that thing looks beefy. The other ones though i'd be checking constantly... White mongoose has been running the UMI piece on the street with no problems, we'll see how it holds up
yeah but some people dont realize the stress that gets put on that thing just driving around. In and out of driveways and turn in's, IMO theres no need for a tubular kmember unless its a race car, or special aplication like TT or something crazy. The weight reduction isnt worth the risk in a DD, as the OP has found out.
yeah but some people dont realize the stress that gets put on that thing just driving around. In and out of driveways and turn in's, IMO theres no need for a tubular kmember unless its a race car, or special aplication like TT or something crazy. The weight reduction isnt worth the risk in a DD, as the OP has found out.
i have a pa racing k member and couldnt be happier with it...and i beat the **** outta it with my solid motor mounts...have not had any experiance with any other brand but if umi would like to send me one i wouldnt reject it lol
Currently I have 16,000 miles on my daily driver with our K-member and A-Arm set-up....these are hard miles too on PA roads. My last car had almost 30,000 on it before it got demolished in a accident.. which BTW still did not bend or tweak the K-member.
We are very confident in our K-member being suitable for every day use
If you have any questions please ask.
Thank you!
Ryan
We are very confident in our K-member being suitable for every day use
If you have any questions please ask.
Thank you!
Ryan