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HAS ANYONE DONE THIS? trap door

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Old 09-09-2008 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Did any of you put anything around the edges to help seal fumes and to get rid of sharp edges?
Just put a bit of rubber seal around the edges and screw down an aluminum plate over top.
Old 09-09-2008 | 12:01 PM
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im going to have to do this, this week!!
Old 09-09-2008 | 01:06 PM
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I am going to use these guys,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/965819-walbro-255lph-pump-sale.html
Old 09-09-2008 | 01:15 PM
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My buddy had done it on his old Galaxie, Chevelle and Nova (he got bored with classic cars real quick and was always moving onto the next one). I have heard of it on countless F Bodies (as I am sure you have seen), but never seen it. Some people claim that it ***** with how the body moves on the track, but I doubt it is a problem unless you are pushing MASSIVE power for that flex to be noticed.
Old 09-09-2008 | 01:21 PM
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dont buy the walbro, that kit sucks. for roughly the same cost, get the racetronix, which requiresno splicing, and plus comes with the fuel pump booster harness. the walbro requires you to cut your tank also. i did the walbro, it didnt work, then i had to get a new fuel bucket and buy the racetronix

just passing on my experiences
Old 09-09-2008 | 02:28 PM
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I did it on mine with a 4 inch wheel grinder. It took about 30 mins. I just taped it back shut and put the upholstery back over it. I have never smelled fumes. I also did it the "right" way by dropping the rearend and than the tank, but I def wouldn't suggest it. It took me about 3 hours.

And my friend had a 750 Walbro in his 85' Buick, and it took a **** after only 1 year. Good luck with your swap man.
Old 09-09-2008 | 03:24 PM
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Mine is sealed by the 3M tape...
Old 09-09-2008 | 04:35 PM
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by the time you have the back interior ripped out you could have the car on stands and the rearend dropped, just take off the rear calipers and unbolt the shocks, then disconnect the panhard and brace bar and drop the tank. Ive got it down to having the tank out in 20 min with my air ratchet (friends with fbodies) and 20 min back together, and you dont have to worry about cutting up ur floor and dealing with fumes later on. From what i seen with walboro pumps, they burn up quite easy so keep your tank full, o n the racetronix is basically a walboro pump with a bracket.
Old 09-09-2008 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lowerthanyou00
by the time you have the back interior ripped out you could have the car on stands and the rearend dropped, just take off the rear calipers and unbolt the shocks, then disconnect the panhard and brace bar and drop the tank. Ive got it down to having the tank out in 20 min with my air ratchet (friends with fbodies) and 20 min back together, and you dont have to worry about cutting up ur floor and dealing with fumes later on. From what i seen with walboro pumps, they burn up quite easy so keep your tank full, o n the racetronix is basically a walboro pump with a bracket.
How in the heck does it take you more time to simply pull out two pieces of plastic and lift up a carpet?

The first time you do this mod it MIGHT take a whole half an hour since you're cutting the hole. One hour if you go REALLY slow because you are scared.

After that first time it should literally take you ONE MINUTE to access your fuel pump...

I'll race you to get to your pump for $100 if you want
Old 09-09-2008 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER
How in the heck does it take you more time to simply pull out two pieces of plastic and lift up a carpet?

The first time you do this mod it MIGHT take a whole half an hour since you're cutting the hole. One hour if you go REALLY slow because you are scared.

After that first time it should literally take you ONE MINUTE to access your fuel pump...

I'll race you to get to your pump for $100 if you want
Yeah, I didn't get that either. Took me a couple minutes to clear the area for the cutting. Took me 15 mins to cut the hole taking my time. Maybe 15 mins to disconnect the lines, unbolt and remove the pump assembly. 5 mins to remove and pry open the bucket. A couple mins to R&R the pump. Waited one hour for the epoxy to dry when I put the lid back on. Hooked up the bucket to the assembly, slid it back in, bolted it back up, reconnected the lines and I was done.
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lowerthanyou00
by the time you have the back interior ripped out you could have the car on stands and the rearend dropped, just take off the rear calipers and unbolt the shocks, then disconnect the panhard and brace bar and drop the tank. Ive got it down to having the tank out in 20 min with my air ratchet (friends with fbodies) and 20 min back together, and you dont have to worry about cutting up ur floor and dealing with fumes later on. From what i seen with walboro pumps, they burn up quite easy so keep your tank full, o n the racetronix is basically a walboro pump with a bracket.
the pump is actually a walbro, but with the racetronix kit, you do not have to cut your stock fuel bucket up, it comes with the right cnnections, the booster harness, and a sick billet cover
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:36 PM
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for anybody interested in doing this just remember that the 93-98 f bodies have the fuel pump module located differently on the tank...
the reason being 93-98 fbodies had the charcoal canister remote mounted from the fuel tank, where was the 99+ fbodies have the charcoal canister mounted on the tank itself...

on the 93-98 fbodies the module is located farther towards the front of the car...when making the cut its not a bad idea to make it in a small L shape towards the driver side of the vehicle...this will make it easier for you to reach the quick disconnects...
on the 99+ fbodies the module is located farther towards the rear of the vehicle..

if someone can find me a pic of the axle tunnel from the interior of the vehicle i can draw out where the cuts need to be made...
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SUCK MY SS
for anybody interested in doing this just remember that the 93-98 f bodies have the fuel pump module located differently on the tank...
the reason being 93-98 fbodies had the charcoal canister remote mounted from the fuel tank, where was the 99+ fbodies have the charcoal canister mounted on the tank itself...

on the 93-98 fbodies the module is located farther towards the front of the car...when making the cut its not a bad idea to make it in a small L shape towards the driver side of the vehicle...this will make it easier for you to reach the quick disconnects...
on the 99+ fbodies the module is located farther towards the rear of the vehicle..

if someone can find me a pic of the axle tunnel from the interior of the vehicle i can draw out where the cuts need to be made...
Yeah, I found a write-up saying to make the cut on the drivers side about an inch wider towards the drivers side to reach the rear disconnects. It wasn't that bad.
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Yeah, I found a write-up saying to make the cut on the drivers side about an inch wider towards the drivers side to read the rear disconnects. It wasn't that bad.
well i got gorilla mits, so it makes it easier for me lol
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:53 PM
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Havent done it yet...got a racetronix kit waiting for install.
Old 09-09-2008 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MrElectric03
Havent done it yet...got a racetronix kit waiting for install.
I can help you when we install your 9".
Old 09-09-2008 | 06:00 PM
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i been doing a search on this as well and it looks like from 93-98 you cut a hole like in these pictures you guys posted up from 99+ its a smaller hole you need to cut??
Old 09-09-2008 | 06:02 PM
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this is the 99+ cuts
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=door+trap+99
Old 09-09-2008 | 06:07 PM
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dont half *** your car, i did the fuel pump in my 01 twice and had the tank out far enough to change it within an hour, you do not have to completley remove the rearendfrom the car, just lower it enough to slide the tank out
Old 09-09-2008 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 02NHRAtransAm
dont half *** your car, i did the fuel pump in my 01 twice and had the tank out far enough to change it within an hour, you do not have to completley remove the rearendfrom the car, just lower it enough to slide the tank out
I went with the half *** method, I have zero regrets and I have peace of mind knowing that any future changes/upgrades will be cake.
Why do unnecessary work if you don't have to?


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