98 Z28, LS2 402, FMVB 4L80e, new rear, etc
11-25-2008 | 06:54 PM
#1
98 Z28, LS2 402, FMVB 4L80e, new rear, etc I have decided I would like something with more daily driving manners and am looking at getting a 2000 or so
Z06. I just got done with this project but I think my time with it has finished. Obviously a lot of sentiment gets attached to these cars so I do not know what I should ask for it. Here is as detailed of a description as I can provide.
1998 Sebring Silver Z28 t-tops 100k miles on body, owned car since 20k miles, 5k miles on tranny and motor and 10k on rearend
SDPC LS2 402 stroker with L98 heads, L76 intake, NW 90mm TB, forged everything. 25x/25x .6xx/.6xx cam. Built for a turbo application in mind, current compression with milled L98 heads is 10.5:1
The motor was purchased from SDPC and professionally assembled and installed. For exhaust I am running 1 and 3/4in SLP long tubes through a cat-less true dual TSP system dumped under the car. Have roughly $8-$10k tied up in the motor. Less than 5k miles.
1999 4L80e transmission with full manual valve bodies and completely upgraded internals and a 3500 vig stall converter with 2.8STR Built this to be bullet proof, have over $5k in conversion and transmission build. Less than 5k miles
NEW GM 10 bolt professionally installed by the GM dealer. I would have gone 12 bolt but the car was my dads at the time. No noises from the rear, it will go eventually but with thick GM 2.73 gears and less than 10k miles it should have some life left in it.
The little things that don't matter when price is concerned but give you an idea of the car without any pictures...
5% tint professionally installed
Shaved berger panel prof. painted/installed
OEM SS spoiler
Factory chrome 5-stars and silver painted 17x9.5 Zr1s
Aftermarket CD player
New carpet (black) and sound deadener
Rear seat delete
Trans am door panel conversion
ebony plastics on the interior
white face gauges
Factory grey leather seats, not the worst but by no means the best condition.
Halo headlights
Visishade rear taillight tint
THE BAD STUFF
AC system does not pull enough vaccuum so the air does not blow out the top vents
Horn doesn't work nor do the interior lights, blown fuses just not replaced them yet
No suspension, not even SFCs, just outta the shop
Likely needs a fuel pump
Need new shocks on all four corners
Front bumper cover got a shitty paint job that spider webbed and the paint shop did not honor their warranty because of a tiny *** scratch from a SHOPPING CART wtf
Hood has a scratch on it, scratch on both doors of car and a scuff mark on the back bumper. People are ******** and do hit and runs...
Windshield has a scratch where the windshield wiper ran some metal shavings in a thing even semi-circle line when the motor shop didn't prevent them from going everywhere.
Pretty much just cosmetic stuff is the only thing wrong with it, I will likely have the fuel pump and shocks done at time of sale. It was dynotuned by Ed Wright and I do not have the dynograph anymore but it was right around 400/400 through the FMVB 4L80e. The L98 heads and L76 intake are out of box GM parts; I was using them as a temporary setup until I had assembled the turbo parts then I was going to go with a different set of heads for lower compression. I have not been to the drags to be times with this car, it is just that freshly done. I have held my own from dead stops and from rolls on the HW with my buddys who are mid-low 11s @ 125ish with nitrous but my friend's 10.8ish 408/nitrous walked me pretty bad so I would say it is currently a low 11 sec car. With better gearing and proper suspension it could be a 10.9x car and even better with a head/cam swap
This car is a great car for someone who just wants something fun that is already taken care of and ready to go minus a few suspension stuff here and there and a rear in the future.
It is even better as a base for someone with intentions of going FI as that is what the motor was intentioned for
I have all receipts and records of the car and without adding up the receipts one by one I imagine I have over $20,000 work in the car not counting the purchase price of the car.
Does it sound reasonable for me to hope to get $15-$18k out of the car depending on the fixes I make to the 'BAD STUFF' column before selling it? If not, how much?
Thanks
Z06. I just got done with this project but I think my time with it has finished. Obviously a lot of sentiment gets attached to these cars so I do not know what I should ask for it. Here is as detailed of a description as I can provide.
1998 Sebring Silver Z28 t-tops 100k miles on body, owned car since 20k miles, 5k miles on tranny and motor and 10k on rearend
SDPC LS2 402 stroker with L98 heads, L76 intake, NW 90mm TB, forged everything. 25x/25x .6xx/.6xx cam. Built for a turbo application in mind, current compression with milled L98 heads is 10.5:1
The motor was purchased from SDPC and professionally assembled and installed. For exhaust I am running 1 and 3/4in SLP long tubes through a cat-less true dual TSP system dumped under the car. Have roughly $8-$10k tied up in the motor. Less than 5k miles.
1999 4L80e transmission with full manual valve bodies and completely upgraded internals and a 3500 vig stall converter with 2.8STR Built this to be bullet proof, have over $5k in conversion and transmission build. Less than 5k miles
NEW GM 10 bolt professionally installed by the GM dealer. I would have gone 12 bolt but the car was my dads at the time. No noises from the rear, it will go eventually but with thick GM 2.73 gears and less than 10k miles it should have some life left in it.
The little things that don't matter when price is concerned but give you an idea of the car without any pictures...
5% tint professionally installed
Shaved berger panel prof. painted/installed
OEM SS spoiler
Factory chrome 5-stars and silver painted 17x9.5 Zr1s
Aftermarket CD player
New carpet (black) and sound deadener
Rear seat delete
Trans am door panel conversion
ebony plastics on the interior
white face gauges
Factory grey leather seats, not the worst but by no means the best condition.
Halo headlights
Visishade rear taillight tint
THE BAD STUFF
AC system does not pull enough vaccuum so the air does not blow out the top vents
Horn doesn't work nor do the interior lights, blown fuses just not replaced them yet
No suspension, not even SFCs, just outta the shop
Likely needs a fuel pump
Need new shocks on all four corners
Front bumper cover got a shitty paint job that spider webbed and the paint shop did not honor their warranty because of a tiny *** scratch from a SHOPPING CART wtf
Hood has a scratch on it, scratch on both doors of car and a scuff mark on the back bumper. People are ******** and do hit and runs...
Windshield has a scratch where the windshield wiper ran some metal shavings in a thing even semi-circle line when the motor shop didn't prevent them from going everywhere.
Pretty much just cosmetic stuff is the only thing wrong with it, I will likely have the fuel pump and shocks done at time of sale. It was dynotuned by Ed Wright and I do not have the dynograph anymore but it was right around 400/400 through the FMVB 4L80e. The L98 heads and L76 intake are out of box GM parts; I was using them as a temporary setup until I had assembled the turbo parts then I was going to go with a different set of heads for lower compression. I have not been to the drags to be times with this car, it is just that freshly done. I have held my own from dead stops and from rolls on the HW with my buddys who are mid-low 11s @ 125ish with nitrous but my friend's 10.8ish 408/nitrous walked me pretty bad so I would say it is currently a low 11 sec car. With better gearing and proper suspension it could be a 10.9x car and even better with a head/cam swap
This car is a great car for someone who just wants something fun that is already taken care of and ready to go minus a few suspension stuff here and there and a rear in the future.
It is even better as a base for someone with intentions of going FI as that is what the motor was intentioned for
I have all receipts and records of the car and without adding up the receipts one by one I imagine I have over $20,000 work in the car not counting the purchase price of the car.
Does it sound reasonable for me to hope to get $15-$18k out of the car depending on the fixes I make to the 'BAD STUFF' column before selling it? If not, how much?
Thanks
11-27-2008 | 09:24 AM
#5
It's a rough market, the mileage on the body is a bit high but you have a nice mod list. I would say that it's worth $15K, but the problem is getting it right now. The only things selling are high mileage rides that are super cheap or cars that are absolutely perfect.
Also, the stock rear is questionable. A good heads and cam setup can toast one, and you've got considerably more than that.
Also, the stock rear is questionable. A good heads and cam setup can toast one, and you've got considerably more than that.
