fst100

iTrader: (5)

posting and asking for a friend. he recently bought a 1980 Pontiac trans am for $6k. Auto, around 95500 miles, condition is good body and frame from what he can tell. interior is beat. gold exterior color. has a 350 sbc (im assuming swapped in). what are things to look for if the panels and such are original?

Firebrian

I know Mopar original body panels well. For Chevy, you have part numbers on them, and places where the VIN # is stamped in. A simple google search will give you the details.

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtip...s-guide-70-81/...some ideas on where to look for repair seams and how they looked before.

Original panels typically won't show any signs of excessive plastic/bondo/putty-seam filler. But, body panel seams without any factory filler would be a problem, especially in the trunk area. And the factory was sloppy in slathering that stuff down. In the trunk, having sound deadener sprayed on the inner quarters is typical of Chrysler...not sure about Chevy. Reproductions typically won't get that treatment unless the car is going for a high level restoration. A simple refrigerator magnet or paint gauge can measure paint thickness around the car. Usually some places are still original paint (under side of trunk lid or hood, door jambs, behind rear seats, etc. Once you get a feel for what proper paint thickness is on that car, you can tell which panels have been repainted, which have too much body filler, and which ones are likely original factory paint. The underside of factory inner/outer quarter panels often have drain holes, spots welds, tabs, etc. If those are messed up, missing, it's not likely you're looking at original panels....or at a minimum, quarter extensions applied. Lower rocker panels are another place to check for repainting/touch ups/rot + filler.

Consistent paint gauge readings (or magnet adhesion) around the car in all the places you can test is a good sign of factory original lacquer paint. Lack of contact/adhesion will identify trouble areas....repairs, replaced panels, too much filler, repaint(s). I believe original paint back then still came with the orange peel look. A modern paint job using clear coats, etc. will look different. Another rule of thumb is that when other parts on the car appear totally original, the better the chances the paint is too. You could get a factory 350 ci in 1980. VIN and date code stampings on engine will determine if it came with the car or was a replacement.

http://www.nastyz28.com/decode.php

http://www.superchevy.com/features/n...camaro-iroc-z/

http://www.nastyz28.com/camaro/camaro80.html

Vehicle Identification Example: 1P87LAN547484
First digit is GM Division: 1 = Chevrolet
Second digit is model: P = Sport, Rally Sport, Z28, S = Berlinetta
Digits 3 & 4 are body type: 87 = 2dr. coupe
Fifth digit is engine code: A = 231ci V6, H = 305ci V8, J = 267ci V8, K = 229ci V6, L = 350ci V8.
Sixth digit is model year: A = 1980
Seventh digit is N for Norwood assembly, L for Van Nuys.
Last six digits increased one with each car built at each plant.