replacing stud on dana s60
replacing stud on dana s60 i have a 98 z, auto. back in... 05? 06? i purchased a strange dana s60 rear. about a week ago i had a flat (rear drivers side) and in the process of removing the lugs i broke one stud clean off... i now have the car jacked up in the garage and have no friggin idea how to get the damn thing out since the ebrake is in the way... anyone have a write up on this? i have searched the thread but didnt see anything. any help is greatly appreciated.
o yea. i talked to the ppl at strange and the stud they used are m12, 1.50 pitch, 50mm long, and the head is a hex. i have looked at autozone all they had that was close was a m12, 1.50, but a 54mm, non hex head. will this work? or do i need to have the excess 4mm machined off? or should i just suck it up and order replacements via strange directly? (min of $10 + shipping)
and i dont have the net at my house. only at dads. so it may be a day or so before i can reply.
thanks all in advance.
o yea. i talked to the ppl at strange and the stud they used are m12, 1.50 pitch, 50mm long, and the head is a hex. i have looked at autozone all they had that was close was a m12, 1.50, but a 54mm, non hex head. will this work? or do i need to have the excess 4mm machined off? or should i just suck it up and order replacements via strange directly? (min of $10 + shipping)
and i dont have the net at my house. only at dads. so it may be a day or so before i can reply.
thanks all in advance.
Removing the axle shouldn't be much different than on a 10 bolt.
drain the rear, pull the calipers off.
open the cover, push the axle in, remove the c clip (if it has a clip clip, not sure if c clip eliminators are used on S60's)
pull the axle out. push the broken stud out on a press and press in the new one,
The extra 4mm in length shouldnt matter.
drain the rear, pull the calipers off.
open the cover, push the axle in, remove the c clip (if it has a clip clip, not sure if c clip eliminators are used on S60's)
pull the axle out. push the broken stud out on a press and press in the new one,
The extra 4mm in length shouldnt matter.
You don't need to drain the the rearend cause these rears have c-clip eliminators. Just pull the axel out and SCREW IN the new stud. The dana has screw in studs not press in studs.
if you have 4 channel rear you may as well order it from strange because your going to need t order a new wheel bearing and seal. the old bearing has to be cut off as theirs not enough room to press it off. then unscrew the old stud from the back and screw in the new one in. they have c clip eliminators so there is 4 bolts on the end of housing that unbolt the axle from the rear. no need to pop the cover or drain the fluid.
if you have 4 channel rear you may as well order it from strange because your going to need t order a new wheel bearing and seal. the old bearing has to be cut off as theirs not enough room to press it off. then unscrew the old stud from the back and screw in the new one in. they have c clip eliminators so there is 4 bolts on the end of housing that unbolt the axle from the rear. no need to pop the cover or drain the fluid.
thanks. i was afraid of that. i finally got a reply from someone at strange that said that since i have abs its gonna be a bitch cause something has to be pressed to get it out. i know normally u just beat the bitch's out but there is a part in the way. ill try to get a pic to show everyone.
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I need to replace mine wheel studs too, do i need a new wheel bearing and seal if i don't have abs? The rearend had abs but i cut the rings off cause i bought from a person that had it setup for abs but my car doesn't have it so i cut the rings off.
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Verdad Gallardo you should be ok then. just might have to drill a hole in the backing plate.
yeah you should be ok. i had an issue about 3 weeks after i bought mine i was driving down the highway and 4 of the 5 studs broke for some reason... many calls later and overnighted parts i had it back working again. make sure you get their seal and bearing! they will try to give you one for one that crosses over but it doesnt work at all. theirs are a smaller diameter. there is two bearings also one is a newer version. one is tapered, one is not but they both work. they were actually really nice about getting me the parts. i think i bought 10 studs just in case it ever happens again for some unknown reason
transam69230 - with you not having to use the reluctor rings you should be fine changing out the stud without actually needing the new seal or bearing
transam69230 - with you not having to use the reluctor rings you should be fine changing out the stud without actually needing the new seal or bearing
Will I need to pull the axel out, or how do you change them out? I know that they are screw in, but i haven't really messed with an aftermarket rearend before just the craptastic 10bolts that come from the factory.
s you need to pull the axle. take the 4 bolts/ nuts off the end of the housing where the backing plates are and it slides right out. there is a change you will need to readjust your park break afterwords so check that before you button it up.
