You're absolutely 100% correct. Though I highly suggest these for drag applications allowing for additional weight loss and options, they are not a street oriented setup, especially if it’s a daily driving vehicle. It's also not an inexpensive option by any means (typical costs to convert would be ~1000.00 for front brakes alone) which negates reasons for most users looking for "economy" builds. You'll need the brakes as well as new braided brake lines. We do offer these components as a solution to many as well. It would be far less expensive purchasing a wheel such as our Bogart’s built for the OEM brake configuration bolt them on and go vs. changing to drag brakes just to run 15" wheels on occasion.

If customers choose to consider drag brakes, our wheels are less expensive, even lighter and offer deeper dishing and/or allowing wheels to be “slammed” inward for that pro-race appearance. We also do offer promotional packages for drag brake and wheel combos.

At this point, there’s quite a bit to read, so for the scan-readers, please do not ask for price quotes on the forums for our Bogart products, wheels and combo’s are built to suit, prices vary according to build. If you’re interested, the best option is to call and I would be happy to discuss all options and costs. You can also e-mail us as well using our online form which directs specific questions I need to evaluate your particular goals and give a solution with costs.

 

thanks for info.i guess the BS wheels will work for me.

 

are your bogarts sfi approved?.

 

No, since 99% of the market does not need or require SFI certification, we do not submit for the sticker. Not to say most won't pass, it’s a cost consideration. If it was mandated most needed the cert, we (as well as many others) would add it to wheels… that will raise costs ultimately to the end user…which I’m sure most people do not want if they don’t need it.

This is probably why you don't see the certs on many wheels like as previously mentioned, weld and other major companies.

I'm going to give a bit more information then you may have asked for, but I want to be certain it is clear for the masses to understand comments I state. I will discuss other wheels so that some do not jump in falsly stating I'm just putting some other products down to make ours look better. This is far from the truth.

I can't state how important it is to understand SFI certs have nothing to do with street durability or warranty of fitness for street usage. Here's an example and in staying away from our wheels so people don’t’ think I’m being biased in my discussion.

I'll discuss Weld’s wheels. Welds Alumastar a very nice high-end drag wheel is SFI certified, Another high-end wheel is Welds street/strip Weldstar RT which is NOT SFI certified. I'd say with a 99.99% certainty, even though their Weldstar RT street/strip wheel is NOT certified, it will pass with flying colors.

By others discussion, stating (paraphrasing here) “SFI is great to have as it’s an assurance it will work on the street well..." To validate this statement is grossly inaccurate and false is very easy. If you used Weld's Alumastar on the street, it will fail rather quickly in comparison to the Weldstar RT wheel as it is not intended as a street wheel (though remember, the Alumastar IS SFI certified)...Welds Weldstar RT street/strip wheel is NOT SFI certified...The Weldstar will prove far more durable and work well for street and strip usage.

 

thank you for the good info.i will be calling you for my abs delete and other brake parts.keep up the good work.

 

Thank you for your support and comments. I welcome all discussions. This is what the forums are great for...in the end; they can be a wealth of information. Sometimes, you need to take some of it with a grain of salt as you never know who is on the end typing the message...

I tend to write quite a bit of info...that's the engineering "particular" personality in me I suppose. I try to make statements/comments as brief as possible. I reiterate and validate my discussions so people understand reasoning behind my comments. Am I correct 100% of the time, I am only human, so if I mistakenly present a topic of discussion, I would hope that I am corrected.

 

i think the more info you give the better.when i buy parts i look for all of the info i can get so i can make the best choice.monney is not issue for me i just want the best parts/service.that is why i would buy from SJM top notch service+super tech susport.dont change your replys at all keep them long as they have to be to get the info out.

 

you guys running these skinnies what front tires are you using?? i put a set of used 165/15 on my draglites and theres about a 2" difference in the height of them and my 26" ETs streets. And thats causing my abs, brake, and traction control light to come on.

 

Thanks again tals7. It’s refreshing to see some appreciate my discussions. Kevin, I’d suggest staying away from those types of radials. Generally speaking, they are neither load rated nor speed rated for your car. Many are not even meant for the typical 3.5-4" wheel. This means you're stuffing them onto the wheel and overinflating them to work for the application. This is a recipe for wheel and or tire failure.

Stick with something like MTT-1573 which work well with 275's, 26x11's etc. MT does have a newer style radial tire, but generally speaking it will put more stress on front shells increasing the chance of failure. M&H has some new setups as well. Regarding your situation, ABS is improperly setup for your tire combination; you cannot tune the EBCM to correct your setup. You need to either consider deleting your ABS with one of our ABS delete kits, or at minimum changing to a tire that are similar in diameters of your rears.

 

being there for support and info is one thing....... sarcasm and pokes at people is another...... u know the old saying...... dont have anyhting nice to say dont say it....... same thing applies here. anything other than an answer to a question is NOT needed.

 

thanks Z28

 

stealth : are those the 15 x 4 or 15 x 3.5's ?

 

i did not see any "pokes"/"sarcasm" just some one trying to help.i did read entire thread more than once.

 

read again...... so i dont have to copy them to ya......

 

I use 2-ply Moroso Drag Specials, 10 lbs each. Obviously a drag-only tire.

Flyin', aside from the fact that Steve contributes to keeping the lights on in this place, he also contributes a lot of invaluable information and advice. If you don't like him or the fact that he is here (you may be pretty much alone there) then just ignore his fact-filled, informative posts. I for one, as a relative newb to these subjects, will continue to read and benefit from them. Even though he doesn't like my wheels.

 

I've got the Mickey's(MTT-1573) that SJM is talking about on my 15x4s

 

how you liking them??? Any brake lights, or traction control light?

 

My feelings exactly.

 

lol, I have six "idiot" lights on in my dash. But that is only because I am running a carb and TH350

 

I ran the 15x3.5s in the front a little more than a year ago. I'm not sure if the designs have changed much.. I bought them before they were made to fit F-bodies.

You had to use a 7/16 spacer on the front and grind down the front calipers a decent amount.