WS6 with Aluma-stars Drag Set up (pics) looking for ideas
#21
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I really like the D6's, I haven't seen those before. I sent a email requesting some pricing. I like to be a little different, can't tell that by my TT2's but when I make a investment I like to be a little different. I just hope these are in my budget.
I have my TT2s on www.racingjunk.com for sale or trade. It would be nice to sell them. I wasn't planning on getting wheels so quick, my plan was for cam, heads and rear end. But I need to look fast if I'm not. It will be easier to splurge for the rear end once I break the one I have LoL! Plus my wife is more willing to allow a little cash flow if its broke and sitting.
Keep the pics coming, Thanks for the info and looks
I have my TT2s on www.racingjunk.com for sale or trade. It would be nice to sell them. I wasn't planning on getting wheels so quick, my plan was for cam, heads and rear end. But I need to look fast if I'm not. It will be easier to splurge for the rear end once I break the one I have LoL! Plus my wife is more willing to allow a little cash flow if its broke and sitting.
Keep the pics coming, Thanks for the info and looks
#22
Thanks for the pics link, I really like the Bogarts. I was told there not good for the street. My T/A is far from a everyday driver, I put 500 miles on it last year. However most of those were in 2 weekends. I would hate spend good money on a set of wheels to have problems with them. Will they hold up for what I want them for? I know there great for the strip, I'm headed there too!
Keep the pics coming, I'm being sold very quickly on Bogarts. Thanks guys, I haven't seen a car yet that doesn't look good with these wheels on it.
Keep the pics coming, I'm being sold very quickly on Bogarts. Thanks guys, I haven't seen a car yet that doesn't look good with these wheels on it.
The Aluma Star wheels that you're looking at are drag wheels. Actually, they are a very specific drag wheel that I would never use as a street wheel. They are not like welds draglites or prostars... They are a high-end very light wheel that is designed specfiically for track use. Bending or damage from street use is going to be much more likely with that type of wheel. It's a VERY nice drag wheel nevertheless. They would be similar to our P2 drag wheels which are going to be in a similar strength/weight category.
The P1 wheels are drag wheels too but sort of in between a drag and street/strip wheel. The next series would be street/strip and the last would be road race.
I can make the D6 wheels in a bolted drag version would would be a bit more durable than the welded D6 version pictured. The newer street/strip version would be only in the bolted styles...and the strongest setup would be a road race design (that would be bolted as well).
To date, I think I have made only one set of bolted drag D6's for an F-body. I think I only have one other for a mustang...so that would make you #2 made.
If your curious about pricing, The D6's retail should come out actually less than the weld Aluma Star wheels. The Aluma Stars are very nice wheels...I don't want to try to steer you away from something you may have been interested in to begin with.
#23
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The Aluma Star wheels that you're looking at are drag wheels. Actually, they are a very specific drag wheel that I would never use as a street wheel. They are not like welds draglites or prostars... They are a high-end very light wheel that is designed specfiically for track use. Bending or damage from street use is going to be much more likely with that type of wheel. It's a VERY nice drag wheel nevertheless. They would be similar to our P2 drag wheels which are going to be in a similar strength/weight category.
The P1 wheels are drag wheels too but sort of in between a drag and street/strip wheel. The next series would be street/strip and the last would be road race.
I can make the D6 wheels in a bolted drag version would would be a bit more durable than the welded D6 version pictured. The newer street/strip version would be only in the bolted styles...and the strongest setup would be a road race design (that would be bolted as well).
To date, I think I have made only one set of bolted drag D6's for an F-body. I think I only have one other for a mustang...so that would make you #2 made.
If your curious about pricing, The D6's retail should come out actually less than the weld Aluma Star wheels. The Aluma Stars are very nice wheels...I don't want to try to steer you away from something you may have been interested in to begin with.
The P1 wheels are drag wheels too but sort of in between a drag and street/strip wheel. The next series would be street/strip and the last would be road race.
I can make the D6 wheels in a bolted drag version would would be a bit more durable than the welded D6 version pictured. The newer street/strip version would be only in the bolted styles...and the strongest setup would be a road race design (that would be bolted as well).
To date, I think I have made only one set of bolted drag D6's for an F-body. I think I only have one other for a mustang...so that would make you #2 made.
If your curious about pricing, The D6's retail should come out actually less than the weld Aluma Star wheels. The Aluma Stars are very nice wheels...I don't want to try to steer you away from something you may have been interested in to begin with.
#24
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You should consider Billet Specialties Street Lites, 15x10 rears go on with no brake grinding, and the fronts require a little grinding. Here is a short article I did when I did a little grinding to fit the fronts:
http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/Grindi...reet_Lites/122
Other thing good about the B/S wheels is that they usually over $400 cheaper for a full set vs. Bogarts.
I'm holding a Weld catalog in my hands, and I don't see Alumastars available in a relevant backspacing for a stock rear car. Back in the day, Jay Billingsley could get them to make a set of Magnums or something in a 7.0 back space, not sure if that's still possible.
I would not drive Magnums or Alumastars on a daily basis.
http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/Grindi...reet_Lites/122
Other thing good about the B/S wheels is that they usually over $400 cheaper for a full set vs. Bogarts.
I'm holding a Weld catalog in my hands, and I don't see Alumastars available in a relevant backspacing for a stock rear car. Back in the day, Jay Billingsley could get them to make a set of Magnums or something in a 7.0 back space, not sure if that's still possible.
I would not drive Magnums or Alumastars on a daily basis.
#26
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You should consider Billet Specialties Street Lites, 15x10 rears go on with no brake grinding, and the fronts require a little grinding. Here is a short article I did when I did a little grinding to fit the fronts:
http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/Grindi...reet_Lites/122
Other thing good about the B/S wheels is that they usually over $400 cheaper for a full set vs. Bogarts.
I'm holding a Weld catalog in my hands, and I don't see Alumastars available in a relevant backspacing for a stock rear car. Back in the day, Jay Billingsley could get them to make a set of Magnums or something in a 7.0 back space, not sure if that's still possible.
I would not drive Magnums or Alumastars on a daily basis.
http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/Grindi...reet_Lites/122
Other thing good about the B/S wheels is that they usually over $400 cheaper for a full set vs. Bogarts.
I'm holding a Weld catalog in my hands, and I don't see Alumastars available in a relevant backspacing for a stock rear car. Back in the day, Jay Billingsley could get them to make a set of Magnums or something in a 7.0 back space, not sure if that's still possible.
I would not drive Magnums or Alumastars on a daily basis.
#27
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I do like the 17x4 (?) Welds that one guy has in front, car looks cool. I wonder if he has the once piece fronts I see them in the catalog, but they list at $715 each!
The grinding was minor, nothing like what we did with Draglites ten years ago:
The grinding was minor, nothing like what we did with Draglites ten years ago:
#28
[Pro Stock John;12733768]I do like the 17x4 (?) Welds that one guy has in front, car looks cool. I wonder if he has the once piece fronts I see them in the catalog, but they list at $715 each!
The grinding was minor, nothing like what we did with Draglites ten years ago:
Welds high-end wheels are pricey. I often wonder when folks assume our Bogarts are always the highest price...that is not true.
The welds high end wheels ARE very nice and they are actually still worth the money. You can tell a high-end wheel made with higher-end shell material. Pluck them and they will ring like a bell.
Killer, as John mentioned, Billet Sp. is another option. It's the heaviest of the wheels that you'd consider. It also has the smallest backspace of all configurations...and if you use a spacer to make it fit easier, the backspace is worse.
It you use Billet Sp. wheels it would be like leaving ~60-75 lbs of converted weight on your car vs. Welds Aluma Stars or our Bogarts. Braking distances will be longer, 60ft times slower, suspension action/reaction slower. If weight isn't a concern to you, than it may be something for you to consider.
If price is most important, stick with something like weld prostars. They are lighter than the billet sp. wheels and less expensive. The fronts fit rather easily with a spacer, the backs, you'll need a spacer and some grinding.
There are many areas to consider, depending on what your looking for, different setups will meet your goals better.
The grinding was minor, nothing like what we did with Draglites ten years ago:
Welds high-end wheels are pricey. I often wonder when folks assume our Bogarts are always the highest price...that is not true.
The welds high end wheels ARE very nice and they are actually still worth the money. You can tell a high-end wheel made with higher-end shell material. Pluck them and they will ring like a bell.
Killer, as John mentioned, Billet Sp. is another option. It's the heaviest of the wheels that you'd consider. It also has the smallest backspace of all configurations...and if you use a spacer to make it fit easier, the backspace is worse.
It you use Billet Sp. wheels it would be like leaving ~60-75 lbs of converted weight on your car vs. Welds Aluma Stars or our Bogarts. Braking distances will be longer, 60ft times slower, suspension action/reaction slower. If weight isn't a concern to you, than it may be something for you to consider.
If price is most important, stick with something like weld prostars. They are lighter than the billet sp. wheels and less expensive. The fronts fit rather easily with a spacer, the backs, you'll need a spacer and some grinding.
There are many areas to consider, depending on what your looking for, different setups will meet your goals better.
#30
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My thing is this style of car is so new to me. Prior to this all my cars have been tubbed and narrowed big blocks. My son is helping me, but he is only 21 with not a lot of expierence in drag racing. He does have a 2002 firebird thats going mid 11s. My goal is to get in the 10s and drive it to the track. I would most definitely say the Aluma stars are out. I really like the Boggarts, but if BS our good enough for you, they are most definitely good enough for me. I just want the best for the money, but I dont want to be buying wheels again. Unless its for looks!
#31
kilrbecars,
15" wheels since we can easily fit them on your OEM brakes/calipers/rotors...that would be your best option.
What are your expectations in your wheel purchase. If you're goal is to get into the 10's, the fastest way would be with lighter components. Not just wheels, but look in other areas as well.
Regarding wheel choices either Weld Alumastars or our Bogart designs. I believe Billet Sp. has a high-end wheel as well which would be another choice. Stay away from heavy components. By choosing heavier wheels, leaving ~60lbs of mass on your car compared to the other lightweight choices, right off the batt, you're handicapping yourself quite a bit. 100lbs of weight is generally worth .1 second. People spend 600.00 for a k-member just to save 25-35 lbs. Using heavy wheels, you're giving up ~60lbs!
Our Bogarts are pretty much the only direct fit light high-end wheels for OEM F-body brakes. But its not the only choice as long as you don't mind making the wheel fit.
If cost is most important, weld prostars would be your best choice.
Most of the fastest racers in here are using high-end lightweight components. Most realize hp/weight ratio is key.
15" wheels since we can easily fit them on your OEM brakes/calipers/rotors...that would be your best option.
What are your expectations in your wheel purchase. If you're goal is to get into the 10's, the fastest way would be with lighter components. Not just wheels, but look in other areas as well.
Regarding wheel choices either Weld Alumastars or our Bogart designs. I believe Billet Sp. has a high-end wheel as well which would be another choice. Stay away from heavy components. By choosing heavier wheels, leaving ~60lbs of mass on your car compared to the other lightweight choices, right off the batt, you're handicapping yourself quite a bit. 100lbs of weight is generally worth .1 second. People spend 600.00 for a k-member just to save 25-35 lbs. Using heavy wheels, you're giving up ~60lbs!
Our Bogarts are pretty much the only direct fit light high-end wheels for OEM F-body brakes. But its not the only choice as long as you don't mind making the wheel fit.
If cost is most important, weld prostars would be your best choice.
Most of the fastest racers in here are using high-end lightweight components. Most realize hp/weight ratio is key.
#33
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You dont need 15s in wheels to run 10s..Seen it done on 17s many times...hint hint..you should buy my Street lites so I can get some new wheels!!
Looks tuff like a race car..but still good enough to drive on the street for street use..Lighter than most 17sin wheels..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...-like-new.html
Looks tuff like a race car..but still good enough to drive on the street for street use..Lighter than most 17sin wheels..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...-like-new.html
#34
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Thats the set up I have now 17x11 with a 315 rear. I think the 15s look better and would probibly produce better for me. Weight is a very good point to bring up. I'm not planning on putting a turbo or pro charger on the car. So weight will be a big issue for me.
#35
Weight should never be overlooked. Especially rotating and unsprung weight.
These are areas where they are not a lb for lb mod. When you lower unsprung weight and rotational mass, you increase suspension action, better 60 times, 1/4 miles times, shorter braking distances...less stress on the drivetrain...the list goes on.
Some people don't pay attention to weight thinking they will overcome it with gobs of hp. The higher the hp, and the car being heavy...you'll break things quickly by stressing every component to a higher degree. The heavier car will react slower as well. My 4th gen is ~2800 lbs for example, now compare that to a 3600-3800 lb typical F-body...take hp levels keeping them comparitive...hell even if I give another car 200hp, who has the advantage? Who's car will probably break something first?
These are areas where they are not a lb for lb mod. When you lower unsprung weight and rotational mass, you increase suspension action, better 60 times, 1/4 miles times, shorter braking distances...less stress on the drivetrain...the list goes on.
Some people don't pay attention to weight thinking they will overcome it with gobs of hp. The higher the hp, and the car being heavy...you'll break things quickly by stressing every component to a higher degree. The heavier car will react slower as well. My 4th gen is ~2800 lbs for example, now compare that to a 3600-3800 lb typical F-body...take hp levels keeping them comparitive...hell even if I give another car 200hp, who has the advantage? Who's car will probably break something first?
#39
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I think this is my wheel. That is a good looking wheel, I love it, even on a mustang. Lol! thanks for the pics, Steve priced these for me as well. Or at least I think he did. If he didn't he is going too. Thanks
#40
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I love my Welds.
Alumastars are great wheels, but as Steve had mentioned, they are a very light weight track wheel. I drive my car with 17" Alumastar fronts all the time, and have never had an issue, but I like to keep my 15" street wheels on as much as I can.
I went with 15x10 and 15x4 Weld Racing Weldstar R/Ts. These are a STREET wheel that Weld had released specific for the LS1/S197 Camaro/Mustang big brake cars. They are a bolt on street wheel. They come in 12 new designs, in either polished, or a black anodized face finish.
And this is my bro's old car. He is selling his, because he sold the car a few months back with 17 wheels.
Alumastars are great wheels, but as Steve had mentioned, they are a very light weight track wheel. I drive my car with 17" Alumastar fronts all the time, and have never had an issue, but I like to keep my 15" street wheels on as much as I can.
I went with 15x10 and 15x4 Weld Racing Weldstar R/Ts. These are a STREET wheel that Weld had released specific for the LS1/S197 Camaro/Mustang big brake cars. They are a bolt on street wheel. They come in 12 new designs, in either polished, or a black anodized face finish.
And this is my bro's old car. He is selling his, because he sold the car a few months back with 17 wheels.