kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

My car dead hooks on the toyo tq 315's. I have not tracked it, but it run's dead even with a srt4 that traps 115. I have no stall yet, so that could be part of it...

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Yeah that's pretty much all of it.

When I had every other mod in my sig but the stall the tires would barely squeak on launch, barely try to spin at the top of first, then chirp second...on a 420 treadwear street tire.

After the stall I can boil street tires as much as I want from a stop or any first gear roll. Sometimes they try to spin in second if the pavement is smooth enough.

TORK?

iTrader: (27)

FWIW, I pulled a 1.58 and countless 1.6s on a 245 Nitto dr on saladshooters. Switched to the 315 on a set of 17x11 Fikses and could never get better than 1.7 at the track.

They always hooked good on the street though. Yeah, they would spin when I put them all the up against the 3800 stall, but if I flashed it from around 2200 it deadhooked and pulled.

Here is a video of my 315s on the street and similar mods as you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuWK7UxwZ8Q

LeanPocket

iTrader: (6)

Mine hooks as advertised, with my mods in sig.. You have to break them in before you can get them to hook properly, drive 'normal' for about 1k miles to break em in, then try em out at the track and post comparison results.

I chose the 555r for tread life and cosmetics, and was a good price for me. If u want a better hooking DR, consider the MT et streets or Nitto NT05R's .. but u will pay alot more for them, and not as much tread life.

LeanPocket

iTrader: (6)

u might have lost .1 a second due to a change in the wheel diameter, and weight. i think those fikses weight about 19 lbs, idk how much salad shooters weight but the stock 16" snow flakes weight in at about 17lbs +/-

nothing against ur wheels tho, they are a great choice

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Good to know they need broken in atleast. I hope they get better, but I think next time I'm just gonna go back to the 275 nitto dr's.... I was pretty happy with them besides the wear...

Josh Nickelsen

iTrader: (9)

I was planning on going with some 295's for my 10" wide rims but am kind of worried maybe they won't live up to the hype. I ran my car last month at the track and with 275 17 fusion zri (cheap street tires) I pulled low 1.8s all day and my best was a 1.77 with a good 3 second burnout.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I guess im gonna "break in" my tires and than I will let you know how they are doing. Like I said I really liked my 275 nitto dr's and I might be having more troubles now because I lowered the car...

Josh Nickelsen

iTrader: (9)

Ya let us know how they do after you break them in. With my street tires I had them at 33 psi too so I was more than amazed buy the 60's.

Sudz

iTrader: (3)

Your not going get any better traction because you lost sidewall height. You went from a 40 sidewall to a 35 if im not mistaken. That is where a lot of your traction comes from in my experience. Just because its wider and more surface area is touching the road doesnt mean it will "hook up" better from a stop. I know it doesnt sound like it makes sense but it does. For example, if you were to take a 275/60/15 vs your 315/35/17 and lets say the tires were both the same compound, same psi, they would not even be close as far as traction goes.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I can see where your coming from on the sidewall. When these tires are done I will be going back to a 275/40

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

You said you lowered the car.

1) Pinion angle could now be off
2) Could be getting less weight transfer
3) Lower usually means stiffer, which hurts traction

My car isn't low but the shocks/springs are so stiff that my car leaves REALLY flat, watch here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ARZfLdrGns



The sidewall rating is in proportion to the tread width. What is the height for each tire?

For example:

275/50r15 = 10.5" wide and 26" tall
275/60r15 = 10.5" wide and 28" tall
295/50r15 = 11.5" wide and 26.5" tall
325/50r15 = 13" wide and 28.5" tall

LeanPocket

iTrader: (6)

nice write up, im gonna take note of that

LeanPocket

iTrader: (6)

also, with the car being lowerd, I hated my drive-ability with my eibachs .. I had to preform a bumpstop mod and i needed to roll my fenders since my tires were rubbing horribly.. gosh i hated it, but it did look nice when i had it

the weight transfer might be a problem too as he^^ stated, so idk if u can give all the blame to the tires, if u want a better 60' try lookin into a lighter wheel like snowflakes for the track or something

ZV8

iTrader: (2)

I used the same 315/35/17 Nitto 555r except on a 17x11" rim and on a 4k stall and would hook great as long as you give it a nice long smokey burnout. On 19psi, I pulled high 1.6x - low 1.7x 60' times all day long if they were warmed up good. Best was somewhere around a 12.21@110mph. Still the 255/50/16 Mickey thompsons hooked a lot better with low 1.6x and not needing as much heat but wear out a lot faster as a result of the softer compound.

Was your tracked preped well?

EDIT: I was also on stock suspension with some warn out shocks to boot lol

SSCamaro99_3

iTrader: (1)

Not true.

275/40/17 - sidewall height is 275/25.4 = 10.82677*.4 = 4.3307
315/35/17 - sidewall height is 315/25.4 = 12.40157*.35 = 4.3405

Sidewall height is equivalent for all practical purposes.

RaVagE

Actually the sidewall height stayed the same. The sidewall number is an aspect ratio from the width of the tire. For example:
275/40/17 has a sidewall height of 110mm(275 x .40)
315/35/17 has a sidewall height of 110.25mm(315 x .35)

biggriff

iTrader: (3)

i ran 315 Nitto 555R's and cut 1.6 60'S ALL day long...but im pretty sure it recommends an 11" wheel for one and tire pressure and a good burn out is a must... i ran 25 on the street and 16 at the track... as far as hooking on the street vs. track...they spray the track, whole different ball game...but as stated before and short side wall hurts you due to no sidewall flex (im on 27 x 10.5 ET Bias now) good luck with them, they should perform for you after the break in...

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I would say neither after looking at your video. Your car is very very stiff for drag racing. The rear is pretty high up in the air too. The factory GM 4 link works better when the car is low. The closer you can get the rear lower control arms to level with the ground, the better it will hook. Also, are you removing your front sway bar? That will free the front end up a bunch too and give you some much needed front end lift for weight transfer to the rear wheels.

My suspension is all dead stock with the exception of boxed rear control arms, urethane bushings and control arm braces (which everyone drag racing an A-body should have). I do pull the front sway bar when I go to the track which further frees up the front end for weight transfer. I even have regular monroe-matic shocks all the way around. Even with my small 3000 converter I have 1.66-1.67 60' times on M/T 275/60 15s. I share this with you because our suspensions are the same. I will not even mention all the world record holders that are cutting 1.2 & 1.3 60' on 275/60-15s.

The M/Ts are all that and a bag of chips. The rest of the car just has to be working too.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

My comment was made in regards to the Nittos netting the same 60ft as the M/T on the same car.

My suspension is far from ideal for drag racing, but it works ok. Being able to take corners is more fun for me.

It is also possible they are just dry, I don't know how long the guy I got them from had them stored.