New Wheels-Summit Drag Thrust
02-29-2012, 01:44 AM
#42
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everybody starts somewhere, we are not all at the pinnacle of income and taste just because we are online together 
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
02-29-2012, 07:44 AM
#43
good question.
the heavier a car is, the more weight you have to take off for it to matter, same with wheel weight.
100# is only a 2.7% reduction for a 3700# car, while it is a 3.2% reduction in a 3100#car
BUT the lighter you make the car also happens to make things in the trans/rear last longer.
i think you want to find a track thats pretty good, pick a suspension and tire set up to maximize what you get from that track, and launch the bejeezus out of it... at any hp
final answer: on any given day you have more to gain from having the right set up than being light. I pick a strong wheel over a light wheel any day. You can get both in one down the road when you run out of other stuff more important to buy.
the heavier a car is, the more weight you have to take off for it to matter, same with wheel weight.
100# is only a 2.7% reduction for a 3700# car, while it is a 3.2% reduction in a 3100#car
BUT the lighter you make the car also happens to make things in the trans/rear last longer.
i think you want to find a track thats pretty good, pick a suspension and tire set up to maximize what you get from that track, and launch the bejeezus out of it... at any hp
final answer: on any given day you have more to gain from having the right set up than being light. I pick a strong wheel over a light wheel any day. You can get both in one down the road when you run out of other stuff more important to buy.
02-29-2012, 11:46 PM
#45
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good question.
the heavier a car is, the more weight you have to take off for it to matter, same with wheel weight.
100# is only a 2.7% reduction for a 3700# car, while it is a 3.2% reduction in a 3100#car
BUT the lighter you make the car also happens to make things in the trans/rear last longer.
i think you want to find a track thats pretty good, pick a suspension and tire set up to maximize what you get from that track, and launch the bejeezus out of it... at any hp
final answer: on any given day you have more to gain from having the right set up than being light. I pick a strong wheel over a light wheel any day. You can get both in one down the road when you run out of other stuff more important to buy.
the heavier a car is, the more weight you have to take off for it to matter, same with wheel weight.
100# is only a 2.7% reduction for a 3700# car, while it is a 3.2% reduction in a 3100#car
BUT the lighter you make the car also happens to make things in the trans/rear last longer.
i think you want to find a track thats pretty good, pick a suspension and tire set up to maximize what you get from that track, and launch the bejeezus out of it... at any hp
final answer: on any given day you have more to gain from having the right set up than being light. I pick a strong wheel over a light wheel any day. You can get both in one down the road when you run out of other stuff more important to buy.
05-01-2012, 10:30 AM
#48
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The wheels look great. Hell, the car looks incredible all together.
On top of that this has got to be one of if not the best stanced F-body I've ever seen. It's dead on. It sits low, but isn't slammed and has a perfect rake.
On top of that this has got to be one of if not the best stanced F-body I've ever seen. It's dead on. It sits low, but isn't slammed and has a perfect rake.
05-01-2012, 11:56 AM
#49
Cool looking wheels, makes me wonder what offset wheels need to be for my 88 Silverado.
I was bummed out my last track outing, went on draglites for the first time. I had rocker arms trying to come apart though that I didn't know about, I lost trap speed compared to the time prior.
There is some beautiful cars in this thread!
I was bummed out my last track outing, went on draglites for the first time. I had rocker arms trying to come apart though that I didn't know about, I lost trap speed compared to the time prior.
There is some beautiful cars in this thread!
05-26-2012, 07:55 PM
#54
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everybody starts somewhere, we are not all at the pinnacle of income and taste just because we are online together
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
Your opinion doesn't count, your car defies physics, logic, and general sanity all in one pass.
05-29-2012, 10:41 PM
#57
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I'd like to see pics of how much caliper grinding was involved. I understand they may not be a super light wheel, but I rarely go to the strip, and if I could put a 28" slick on this and launch at 6000rpm and have it hold up, I'd be at much more benefit from a "practical" standpoint. Hell, these wheels are only like $400 a set.
06-05-2012, 12:55 PM
#58
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I ran the summit prostar style for a while, didn't have to grind the front at all using a 3/8 spacer, and had to grind one small spot on the rear. Took maybe 20 mins altogether
