Bogart D-10 Pics!!
03-23-2004, 09:38 PM
#22
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They fit, but you have to do a little trimming before you go drag racing. They will grow, and rub if you don't.
You have to whack the fenderwells in pretty good if you want such a wide tire. I don't have adjustable anything, with the exception of my wolfe sway bar, and my torque arm. They just fit. No problems.
Get the adjustable shocks, they work!
You have to whack the fenderwells in pretty good if you want such a wide tire. I don't have adjustable anything, with the exception of my wolfe sway bar, and my torque arm. They just fit. No problems.
Get the adjustable shocks, they work!
03-24-2004, 01:06 AM
#24
Jason, I'll jump in here if you don't mind and answer a few questions... adj panhard and LCA's are advisable for these big diameter/width tires...as everyone know's and some have found out, not all F-bodies are created equal.
Tolorances must not be very tight from one car to the next...unless your rear end happens to be centered correctly (which most are not), fitment can be tough with such a large tire as there is not much room to work with. In addition, if the tire is not centered in the horshoe area, it can hit on the bottom of the fenders in the front or the back depending on which way the rear leans towards.
I believe Jason got lucky with his as everything seemed to be centered well and no adjustments were needed (good thing as he didn't have adj bars)...
This issue is ONLY with LARGER tires, 26's fit fine, 27's are usually ok also, 28's are a hit and miss scenerio...it's trial and error at that point.
Regarding a 6.5 BS on a 10...if it was a Bogart, someone set it up incorrectly or it was from another car(or another rim manufacture)...6.5 won't work well at all as those stick out towards the fender lip area a bit more then what I set F-body bogarts...most likely for the 6.5(provided you don't have additional spacers to make the situation worse), you will need to roll the fender lips OR jack the car up pretty high so that there wouldn't be any interference OR use a modified bumpstop that restricts downward travel into the wheel.
Steve
Tolorances must not be very tight from one car to the next...unless your rear end happens to be centered correctly (which most are not), fitment can be tough with such a large tire as there is not much room to work with. In addition, if the tire is not centered in the horshoe area, it can hit on the bottom of the fenders in the front or the back depending on which way the rear leans towards.
I believe Jason got lucky with his as everything seemed to be centered well and no adjustments were needed (good thing as he didn't have adj bars)...
This issue is ONLY with LARGER tires, 26's fit fine, 27's are usually ok also, 28's are a hit and miss scenerio...it's trial and error at that point.
Regarding a 6.5 BS on a 10...if it was a Bogart, someone set it up incorrectly or it was from another car(or another rim manufacture)...6.5 won't work well at all as those stick out towards the fender lip area a bit more then what I set F-body bogarts...most likely for the 6.5(provided you don't have additional spacers to make the situation worse), you will need to roll the fender lips OR jack the car up pretty high so that there wouldn't be any interference OR use a modified bumpstop that restricts downward travel into the wheel.
Steve
03-24-2004, 06:08 AM
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What he said!
My wheel placement was more science then luck. My Wolfe Racecraft sway bar was adjusted along with my torque arm to make sure everything was square when my 12 bolt was installed. Jeff (my mechanic) had experience setting up 4th gen rearends with these types of parts. Luckily at the time he set them up, I already had a set of 28 inch tires on Weld Draglites for him to gauge and measure before he welded up my sway bar.
Steve knows what he is talking about. I was going to put on a set of adjustable LCA's but was assured by my mechanic that it would be a waste of money. But like I said, this guy setup everything perfectly. To the home installer, I would recommend adjustable LCA and PHB. I mistated on how everything just lined up, and was reminded that there was alot more to it, then just dumb luck.
My wheel placement was more science then luck. My Wolfe Racecraft sway bar was adjusted along with my torque arm to make sure everything was square when my 12 bolt was installed. Jeff (my mechanic) had experience setting up 4th gen rearends with these types of parts. Luckily at the time he set them up, I already had a set of 28 inch tires on Weld Draglites for him to gauge and measure before he welded up my sway bar.
Steve knows what he is talking about. I was going to put on a set of adjustable LCA's but was assured by my mechanic that it would be a waste of money. But like I said, this guy setup everything perfectly. To the home installer, I would recommend adjustable LCA and PHB. I mistated on how everything just lined up, and was reminded that there was alot more to it, then just dumb luck.
03-25-2004, 06:56 PM
#28
Originally Posted by WJ 99 SS
These 10" Bogarts with 6.5" backspace will have no lip contact problems w/a 26x10 or 11.5 ET Street tire, or will lips have to be altered? Thanks. WJ. 
Are you running the stock length axle assemblies? Where did you get your particular setup? That is not a setup that I set for a 4th gen car as it has the rim sticking out a bit...you may have issues with the 11.5's...10et's aren't recommended to be used on a 10 inch rim but it will work though. They may work on a 3rd gen setup better.
Steve
04-12-2004, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast SS on TNT
These pics are a bittersweet thing for me. The car your viewing has blown the motor. Managed to keep it running long enough to get it out of the garage, and put it back in. No worries, going forged with lots more nitrous!
Talk about pretty! I love this shot!!!
Look how nice everything tucks in, even with a 28 X 12.5 ET Street (drool over that rearend kids! Moser, Wolfe Sway bar, Spohn relocation brackets and QA1 shocks!!!!
Talk about pretty! I love this shot!!!
Look how nice everything tucks in, even with a 28 X 12.5 ET Street (drool over that rearend kids! Moser, Wolfe Sway bar, Spohn relocation brackets and QA1 shocks!!!!
thanks,
jerry
04-14-2004, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast SS on TNT
What he said!
My wheel placement was more science then luck. My Wolfe Racecraft sway bar was adjusted along with my torque arm to make sure everything was square when my 12 bolt was installed. Jeff (my mechanic) had experience setting up 4th gen rearends with these types of parts. Luckily at the time he set them up, I already had a set of 28 inch tires on Weld Draglites for him to gauge and measure before he welded up my sway bar.
Steve knows what he is talking about. I was going to put on a set of adjustable LCA's but was assured by my mechanic that it would be a waste of money. But like I said, this guy setup everything perfectly. To the home installer, I would recommend adjustable LCA and PHB. I mistated on how everything just lined up, and was reminded that there was alot more to it, then just dumb luck.
My wheel placement was more science then luck. My Wolfe Racecraft sway bar was adjusted along with my torque arm to make sure everything was square when my 12 bolt was installed. Jeff (my mechanic) had experience setting up 4th gen rearends with these types of parts. Luckily at the time he set them up, I already had a set of 28 inch tires on Weld Draglites for him to gauge and measure before he welded up my sway bar.
Steve knows what he is talking about. I was going to put on a set of adjustable LCA's but was assured by my mechanic that it would be a waste of money. But like I said, this guy setup everything perfectly. To the home installer, I would recommend adjustable LCA and PHB. I mistated on how everything just lined up, and was reminded that there was alot more to it, then just dumb luck.
Fast SS or SJM,
I have the same wheels on my 99 Z28, (Steve may remember me) and my new 422 Darton wet stroker is being installed this week. I have been using Hoosier QTP's in the 26/11.50/15 size with no clearance problems at all. I had a body kit on my car or would have gone w/27" size. ! body kit. . . and now have ordered a pair of Hoosier 28/10.5/15 drags. I was wondering how you plan to get away with tubeless on there? I bought tubes for the 28" drags, but if there was any chance I could get away with running them without tubes, I would rather not use them. I have rim screws, but hate to use them on those beautiful wheels, but I think there is gonna be a problem with the tires slipping on the rims without the screws. I will try it without the screws first of course, but wonder what you guys think the chances are of getting away without tubes @ over 500 RWHP. BTW, I finally took Steve's advice and got the Wolfe drag swaybar. I have all the BMR adjustable suspension components, so with the BFH and trimming a little on the insides of the fender wells, hope to get the Hoosier 28/10.5 drags under there. Anyone have any advice for me? Tubes? Tubeless? Rim screws? Any advice is appreciated, or will have to go by trial & error. Thanks guys.
Last edited by ChevyGoldfinger; 04-15-2004 at 02:07 AM.
04-15-2004, 05:55 AM
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Dont grease the tires when you mount them. I did a few light burnouts, and had the tires marked with a grease paint pen. The tire did not slip at all, even after a couple of full throttle transbrake launches.
I would talk to Steve though for his recommendations. I plan on running the MT ET Streets 28X12.5's for street duty, and will purchase another set of 15X9.75 D-10's that will be screwed (possibly tubed) for a set of Hoosier 28X10.5's that will be for track duty. This of course after my stroker motor is finished. Talk to Steve, might as well go to the expert.
I would talk to Steve though for his recommendations. I plan on running the MT ET Streets 28X12.5's for street duty, and will purchase another set of 15X9.75 D-10's that will be screwed (possibly tubed) for a set of Hoosier 28X10.5's that will be for track duty. This of course after my stroker motor is finished. Talk to Steve, might as well go to the expert.
04-15-2004, 12:13 PM
#32
Originally Posted by ChevyGoldfinger
----------------------------
Fast SS or SJM,
I was wondering how you plan to get away with tubeless on there? I bought tubes for the 28" drags, but if there was any chance I could get away with running them without tubes, I would rather not use them. I have rim screws, but hate to use them on those beautiful wheels, but I think there is gonna be a problem with the tires slipping on the rims without the screws. I will try it without the screws first of course, but wonder what you guys think the chances are of getting away without tubes @ over 500 RWHP. BTW, I finally took Steve's advice and got the Wolfe drag swaybar. I have all the BMR adjustable suspension components, so with the BFH and trimming a little on the insides of the fender wells, hope to get the Hoosier 28/10.5 drags under there. Anyone have any advice for me? Tubes? Tubeless? Rim screws? Any advice is appreciated, or will have to go by trial & error. Thanks guys.
Fast SS or SJM,
I was wondering how you plan to get away with tubeless on there? I bought tubes for the 28" drags, but if there was any chance I could get away with running them without tubes, I would rather not use them. I have rim screws, but hate to use them on those beautiful wheels, but I think there is gonna be a problem with the tires slipping on the rims without the screws. I will try it without the screws first of course, but wonder what you guys think the chances are of getting away without tubes @ over 500 RWHP. BTW, I finally took Steve's advice and got the Wolfe drag swaybar. I have all the BMR adjustable suspension components, so with the BFH and trimming a little on the insides of the fender wells, hope to get the Hoosier 28/10.5 drags under there. Anyone have any advice for me? Tubes? Tubeless? Rim screws? Any advice is appreciated, or will have to go by trial & error. Thanks guys.
Tubes aren't required with the Hoosiers...you do not need them at the track. If they are going to be used on the street, then you may want to use them...this is due to loosing pressure overtime.
Regarding slipping, try it first without screws...as Fast has commented, he (and others) have seen good results without screwing them. A tip for you is before you mount them, be sure you clean the inner lip surfaces of the tire and especially the rim to be sure it is free of polishing material or any other lubricant...lubricant isn't our friend in that area...only helpful when mounting a tire...lol
Steve
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04-15-2004, 12:38 PM
#33
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Fast SS:
What size wheel and tire combo are you running in the front and what type of tire. Looks great. Does the rear end feel floaty under acceleration though?
What size wheel and tire combo are you running in the front and what type of tire. Looks great. Does the rear end feel floaty under acceleration though?
04-15-2004, 08:56 PM
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The front tires are EL-CHEAPO brand 165R80 15's on a 15X4 rim. I got them both for about $50 shipped. Basically they are VW Bug tires. They wear out quickly, and tend to leak a little air over time, so keep an eye on them.
The backend does get a little "spongy" or "gummy" depending on what word works best in your head. It's no major concern, but like anything else, it does require that you concentrate on what your doing. An emegency lane change should be okay, but just be ready for the car to backlash a little. The first five minutes on slicks are a little strange feeling for a noob. After awhile you hardly notice it.
Ya, Steve, the stroker motor is more or less on the drawing board right now. Mulling over various combinations. Right now, my budget says it's a 382 stroker with a 300 shot of nitrous. Atleast I have the heads already.
The backend does get a little "spongy" or "gummy" depending on what word works best in your head. It's no major concern, but like anything else, it does require that you concentrate on what your doing. An emegency lane change should be okay, but just be ready for the car to backlash a little. The first five minutes on slicks are a little strange feeling for a noob. After awhile you hardly notice it.
Ya, Steve, the stroker motor is more or less on the drawing board right now. Mulling over various combinations. Right now, my budget says it's a 382 stroker with a 300 shot of nitrous. Atleast I have the heads already.
BadASS!!!!!!!! I love the wheels!!
04-15-2004, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by steve10
How's things going!! Glad to hear about the new engine...that should work out well:-). Glad to hear that you got the sway bar, that will help you keep yourself planted and going straight when the front wheels come up
Tubes aren't required with the Hoosiers...you do not need them at the track. If they are going to be used on the street, then you may want to use them...this is due to loosing pressure overtime.
Regarding slipping, try it first without screws...as Fast has commented, he (and others) have seen good results without screwing them. A tip for you is before you mount them, be sure you clean the inner lip surfaces of the tire and especially the rim to be sure it is free of polishing material or any other lubricant...lubricant isn't our friend in that area...only helpful when mounting a tire...lol
Steve
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Tubes aren't required with the Hoosiers...you do not need them at the track. If they are going to be used on the street, then you may want to use them...this is due to loosing pressure overtime.
Regarding slipping, try it first without screws...as Fast has commented, he (and others) have seen good results without screwing them. A tip for you is before you mount them, be sure you clean the inner lip surfaces of the tire and especially the rim to be sure it is free of polishing material or any other lubricant...lubricant isn't our friend in that area...only helpful when mounting a tire...lol
Steve
President
I'll give that a try with cleaning off the bead of the Hoosier Drags & the inside edges of the D-10's real good. I guess it's also worth a shot to rough up the inner surface of the rim where the bead will seat, and maybe give the tire patch glue on the bead of the tires treatment a try as well. ANYTHING to avoid drilling and screwing those beautiful polished billet D-10 wheels. 
Thanks again for the tips, and I'll let you know how it turns out after the first night at the track. 
Later,
John
04-16-2004, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Fast SS on TNT
The front tires are EL-CHEAPO brand 165R80 15's on a 15X4 rim. I got them both for about $50 shipped. Basically they are VW Bug tires. They wear out quickly, and tend to leak a little air over time, so keep an eye on them.
The backend does get a little "spongy" or "gummy" depending on what word works best in your head. It's no major concern, but like anything else, it does require that you concentrate on what your doing. An emegency lane change should be okay, but just be ready for the car to backlash a little. The first five minutes on slicks are a little strange feeling for a noob. After awhile you hardly notice it.
Ya, Steve, the stroker motor is more or less on the drawing board right now. Mulling over various combinations. Right now, my budget says it's a 382 stroker with a 300 shot of nitrous. Atleast I have the heads already.
The backend does get a little "spongy" or "gummy" depending on what word works best in your head. It's no major concern, but like anything else, it does require that you concentrate on what your doing. An emegency lane change should be okay, but just be ready for the car to backlash a little. The first five minutes on slicks are a little strange feeling for a noob. After awhile you hardly notice it.
Ya, Steve, the stroker motor is more or less on the drawing board right now. Mulling over various combinations. Right now, my budget says it's a 382 stroker with a 300 shot of nitrous. Atleast I have the heads already.
04-16-2004, 10:23 AM
#38
Drag fronts i.e. moroso DS2's are a much better match for drag rears...mixing ply with non-ply tires is not recommended as it will feel odd as the rear will move different then the fronts. True drag fronts are a MUCH better choice weight wise also as they are ~4 lbs less (I believe offhand..someone may want to verify this one).
Drag fronts will also have less rolling resistence. The ONLY time I'd even suggest staying with a ply front runner is if your planning to use them more on the street as they are DOT legal as the drag front runners are not(you shouldn't be using our rims on the street anyways..tsk tsk... The ply runners will have an advantage over the drag runner in the fact that they work better on turns due to the stiffer sidewall...
I keep seeing you guys using the VW tires...I really would advise against these as they are speed rated ~112MPH which i'm sure most of you guys are going faster. I see some guys stating that amount of time over 112 is very small...heat has a factor into fatigue stress, but, its not just heat that does it... Forces can fatigue the tire and shred it in a fraction of a second. Fatigue stress can happen over time.
For example, take a grinding wheel, spin it over the recommended rpm's...it will fatique and explode above the recommended rpms...picture if this was your tire and on the front of your car. Come on guys...dont spend 1000's on rims and then get cheap with the tires that hold you to the ground:-0
Steve
President
Drag fronts will also have less rolling resistence. The ONLY time I'd even suggest staying with a ply front runner is if your planning to use them more on the street as they are DOT legal as the drag front runners are not(you shouldn't be using our rims on the street anyways..tsk tsk... The ply runners will have an advantage over the drag runner in the fact that they work better on turns due to the stiffer sidewall...
I keep seeing you guys using the VW tires...I really would advise against these as they are speed rated ~112MPH which i'm sure most of you guys are going faster. I see some guys stating that amount of time over 112 is very small...heat has a factor into fatigue stress, but, its not just heat that does it... Forces can fatigue the tire and shred it in a fraction of a second. Fatigue stress can happen over time.
For example, take a grinding wheel, spin it over the recommended rpm's...it will fatique and explode above the recommended rpms...picture if this was your tire and on the front of your car. Come on guys...dont spend 1000's on rims and then get cheap with the tires that hold you to the ground:-0
Steve
President
