gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

Im looking to run nitto NT01s in a 275/40/17 all around for road racing. Just need to make sure these tires are wide enough to hold my power levels of 400-425rwhp. Dont really want to have to run 315s all around on the whole car. Not to mention its a bit more expensive.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

You can run any tire for track use, the key to using a tire with less grip is to 'roll' into the throttle vs. stabbing it out of a corner. Smooth is key. Thus learning how to drive on a less grippy driver, IMO, will make you a better driver once you get really good rubber.

Good rubber, like R6's, help cover up a lot of mistakes a novice driver might have.

Are you looking at track days, or actually timed events. most track days are not timed, in which case, I suggest driving on anything you can find.

A 275 should be plenty. Getting your apexes right and rolling into the trottle shouldn't produce understeer, even at your power levels. Plus, the difference between rolling into WOT vs. just stabbing it is tenths of seconds per lap. The NT01s are good tires, a 275 shoudl be fine for your needs. You may need to menipulate the throttle a little, but I think you will be pleased with it. I'm always a fan on 'run the widest tire you can', but a 275 shouldn't be a problem.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

Also, what type of racing - wheel to wheel (such as NASA), Time Attack, or simply Track Days with a group that rents a track for a day?

Just as important as tires - what brake set-up are running? If you push the car hard, the stock calipers will spread. Don't worry, I know first hand. For the track, I run Hawk HTC60 pads and blank rotors in the front, along with Blaine Fabrication air scoops. My car is heavy, so it's hard on brakes, especially repeated abuse above 130mph. For street use, i have hawk HPS pads, and Brakemotive drilled and slotted rotors. Run a blank rotor for track use.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

I would like to do some HPDEs, timed track events and maybe even some autocross here and there. This is my first time for all of this so im not going out planning on winning a championship, mainly just looking to have fun and gain some good knowledge and experience.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

probably going to go with the hawk DTC-70 pads and a blank rotor on stock calipers with the ATE super blue and braided lines.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

In that case, for your first HPDE, I say go out on any set of rubber. Street tires will be fine - that's what I did. You will quicker find the weaker points of the car once you push it. For me, that was brakes well before tires. The only time I lost traction on street tires was going in too hot into a turn, and getting the rear sideway getting on the throttle too early. I was still reaching 135-140 on street tires on the back stretch at Nashville SuperSpeedway.

Driving on a track is way different than an autcross course. However, for both, smooth is better. You actually will need better tires in autocross than you will a track day. At the slow speeds and tight corners of an autocross couse, you are more likely to kick the rear around that you would at track day speeds. Plus the pavement is usuallya dusty parking lot vs. a true track. I did SCCA Solo II for years till I found out how much more fun track days are. For autocross I run A6s, for track days I run whatever street tires I have at the time.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

That's a solid foundation. You still might spread the calieprs after repeated use. If it's a manual, be sure to NOT set the rear brakes when you park it. just leave it in 1st and let the rears cool off. There are reports of pads and/or rotors cracking due to the heat buildup and the e-brake engaged.

Enjoy your first outting - it's by far the most fun I've ever had in a car.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

The tire should hold enough...the key is the aggressiveness of the driver..

I have seen drag racing on a 10.5 tire... with a lot more power then you have.

Just drive to your set up...and speed up as you get better tires and brakes

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

Yes a 275 tire will work, just be careful is you are using to soft a compound. You can rip a patch of rubber right off the tire if you come on the brakes too hard. The big advantage of the 275 is cost, you can rotate the tire to get maximum use.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

Good point. I corded some A6s when I had no ABS and locked them up. I have ABS now (module was bad at the time) - so it should save the tires. Thus, race with ABS on, traction control off.

Rolling into the throttle will be best, if you do find it will blow the tires with that power. On a road course, I would be suprised if this happens with that particular tire.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Do a search in the road racing section for first track days.

Stay off an R compound tire for at least a year or 5-7 events on track, the most tire I would use for the first year is a NT-05 by Nitto or a cheap 300 treadwear street tire. These tires will give you plenty of warning if you are pushing too hard.

Cooling ducts for the brakes on these cars are a good thing.

GO to www.frrax.com and do some reading.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

Could anybody recommend a decent street tire that might be good to start out on? I was really liking the NT01s but my budget is starting to shrink and I dont wanna tear up a set of expensive tires cause I don't know what the hell im doing. Is anything with around a 300 treadwear fair game?

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

Ive been looking at the BFgoodrich g force sport comp2(comes out in april), Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport, BFgoodrich g force T/A KDW2, Kumho Ecsta XS, and Nitto 555s. Which one of these would be good to start out on?

02WS6SSZ71

iTrader: (20)

Depending on just how much you want to spend, the KDW2 is a pretty solid tire. Some people complain about road noise as the tread gets down on them, but if you have an aftermarket exhaust, I doubt you're going to notice. If you need to save a little more money, the 555 is not a bad option. Both tires are pretty good in rain if you daily drive it. Might check out the Hankook Ventus too for a budget option.

Also, in regard to your original question, if you want a little more tread, it is very possible to run a 295 all the way around with the right wheel offset, and the cost over a 275 isn't that much.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I started out on a set of Maxxis MA-V1's, cheap, GREAT grip, didnt chunk out at all. For $99 each you cant beat them. Very good 300 tread wear tire.

Stay off of ANY R compound tire for a minimum of 5-7 events. These include
Nitto- NT 01, 555r II
Toyo R888, RA1
Hoosier a6, r6
ANY slick or grooved slick.

A street tire will give you warning if its about to cut loose, the tires above will not.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

How long can I expect a 300ish treadwear tire to last after a season of racing?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

What do you consider a "season"?

My Maxxis tires have two events(16 thirty minute sessions) and about 13,000 miles on them and look ok, they get driven hard on the street. They will go another 5k or so before I replace them.

I did flip them on the wheels about 3,000 miles ago to help get more miles out of them.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

A season of 6-8 events at most and some street driving. Car is not going to be a DD but I want to take it out on nice days and such too.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Depends on a lot of variables, air temp, track surface, weight of car, brakes etc.

They would probably make 6 events but thats about it with some street driving.

Watch air pressure between sessions, if the car starts sliding around at the end of the session drop the pressure. Pressure is key to making any tire get good life on track.

Too much pressure, tires get greasy and start sliding around and it gets worse and worse.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

So basically for my first season I really don't need anything more than a fairly cheap perfomance summer tire?