gtfodave

I've searched and what I've come up with is summit and jegs wheels are not made in America, but come with the right backspace I need as opposed to the weld wheels.

I couldn't find anything negative about the quality of the summit and jegs wheels really. Has anyone heard of horror stories with them?

The difference is about 70 a wheel in the front. Not too much more but about 120 in the rear a wheel. What would you guys think


main issue I am having is that the jegs/summit are a cast wheel as the weld is cold forged. I have heard more horror stories about the welds cracks in multiple spots as to the jegs being curbed and destroyed.

Wheels wont be a total street wheel as I will be on my stockers daily. Its more of a weds/saturday meet once in a while and track wheel to DRIVE to the track. not to be driven on everyday

I guess the welds weigh in at 12 and the summits/jegs 16. Compared to the factory GTO wheels, which weigh roughly 30 or so, I think 24lbs to 26lbs isnt a bad trade off compared to 60lbs


I just didnt want to order a wheel that is a total piece of crap which is what the issue is at the moment 433 dollars compared to 762 is a decent amount of savings for something that only will see less than 2 days a week at max on the streets

Also since nobody else has factored this in does the weight of the GTO, which I have taken some off but also added some, affect the likelyhood of a wheel to warp.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

It really just depends on why you're doing the wheel/tire swap. If its for looks only, by all means, they do fit okay and are inexpensive. If you're trying to reduce rotating mass and trying to run a lighter weight wheel, these are not good choices. They're heavy, pretty much equal to a stock 16" combo, and the fronts with a streetable skinny (not a true front runner) will only save you <5 lbs. Not really worth it IMO, but again it depends on what you're after. Also if you're dragracing the setup, the acorn style lug nuts aren't ideal - the way the acorn wheels hold the wheels on doesn't allow for as much support as a shank style lug would (the shank style support the stud all the way thru the wheel, not just the end of it.

gtfodave

The shank style is what I actually forgot about and seems to make the most difference in safety

cj92345

iTrader: (2)

the finish on the jegs drag star wheels in just "ok" weld finish looks much better.

gtfodave

This is something I noticed but just overlooked. I'm
More interested in shaving some pounds and running a slick for track days

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

If you're more interested in shaving weight, the cheapest wheel that fits thats lighter is a Race Star Industries Drag Star. They make them in direct drill now so you don't have to screw with hubcentric rings on a unilug design.

If you wanna spend a bit more and go american made go with a Weld RTS wheel.

The most weight saved will be up front with a 15x3.5 and a true front runner tire - this is more of a track only option.

gtfodave

Thank you. I will look at the race stars when I get home on a computer to see the price.

I was not going to put a radial on the front at all. A front runner is the best option as I only want these to be for the strip.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Weld Racestars look real nice. Hands down.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

Racestar just had a killer sale,something like 450 shippped for 17 fronts,15 rears, you can find a set of weld pro stars with great rubber for 800 and under,i dont know why ya would pay new even if ya get the jegs or summit,by the time ya buy tires and all that your not saving much,plus grinding,spacers,longer studs are needed

gtfodave

I have the arp studs front and rear already. No spacers or grinding is needed on the gto if all is correct.

I just didn't want a used wheel if the balance is wrong or it's bent

race stars have a good sale on the uni but i guess the drilled would be better

Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

There's a reason Welds cost more. FYI when considering your weight difference be sure to keep in mind you're not just comparing static weight, but rotational mass. Each 1 single pound rotating is like 3lbs. Wheel weight is very important because it rotates. So a wheel that is 8lbs lighter statically is really much lighter rotating.

gtfodave

Would the lighter weight also make the wheel slightly less durable?

I guess what I have learned is that you can't have your cake and eat it too. I understand that the Shak style lugs are safer than the conical for street use. The lighter wheels are better for less unsprung weight and the cold forged vs cast has the durability issue

yujelly

If your concerned about weight savings without a doubt go with the real weld wheels they'll be lighter and slightly better looking but it's a decent cost difference between the two so it's entirely up to you and your pockets.

gtfodave

Can the welds be driven on the streets ?

Mrmooney

iTrader: (9)

The unilug race stars aren't as bad as people are saying. I got mine through the special 520 shipped with lug nuts, washer, rings, caps, and valve stems. Once you get 1 lug started then rest go right on. Dealing with the rings is not a bid deal either you place them on the axle stub and they stay you don't even have to take them back off.

I've also ran the jegs brand star wheels on another car, they were great for price but im a cheap *** too.

gtfodave

Would or have you daily drove in the jegs. Did they stay tight

Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

The Weld RTS wheel was designed with the bigger brake newer modern muscle car guys in mind. It was built to be the "have your cake and eat it too" choice. It is 100% durable enough for daily driving, light enough to net ET results on the track (also SFI approved in both front and rear designs) while clearing big brakes and being affordable on the wallet, available in a chrome like polish finish or anodized black finish. They're a few dollars more than the fake Jegs/Summit wheels that don't have any of the qualities listed above, yet out perform in every category.

gtfodave

I am going to look into those in my summit book, unless you happen to know if a sponsor has a set cheaper. Worse comes to worse I just buy them in twos

Mrmooney

iTrader: (9)

Have I no, would I yes. My car was a weekend cruiser/ strip car. I had skinnys up front it was an old 1970 Elky. There was nothing wrong with the Jegs wheels I had though.

gtfodave

see thats the answer I am looking for, I want the jegs to save the money for other things with the car. The massively heavy gto wheels suck so anything really is an upgrade as long as I can run a slick on the back for the track I am sure to see gains.

plus i think I shed off enough weight with the car to not worry about slightly heavier sprung weight