Need 335-30-18 tires that hook, and have cornering grip.
10-14-2015, 11:24 AM
#1
Need 335-30-18 tires that hook, and have cornering grip. It's about that time that I am gonna need some tires for my 1x00rwhp C5. Looking at 335-30-18's on my normal street setup. The car has a pretty stiff suspension, will be used on some corners, as well as straight line. I know traction will not be good as a drag radial, thats KIND of OK,..as I have another set of wheels for drag radials. If I could find a drag radial that had a stiff enough sidewall to handle well at speeds over 150 I would go for it. It's just the car is so stiff, that the tires fold over if to soft, even if I bump up air pressure.
That said, anyone go with either set of tires? The "RIVAL S" is new to me, and the toyos I WISH that were available are RA1's, so the R888 looks like its the only thing available from them. Below are links to each tire. Also open to other suggestions.
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-...s/tire-details
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...petition-tires
Thanks!
That said, anyone go with either set of tires? The "RIVAL S" is new to me, and the toyos I WISH that were available are RA1's, so the R888 looks like its the only thing available from them. Below are links to each tire. Also open to other suggestions.
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-...s/tire-details
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...petition-tires
Thanks!
Last edited by V-seriesTech; 10-14-2015 at 02:07 PM.
10-16-2015, 06:02 PM
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honestly, anything over 1000 rwhp attempting to get traction in a straight line while also getting great cornering is tough. The R888's and some of the choices from Nitto would probably work as they have a decently stiff sidewall with a soft tread compound.
You can also look into the Michellins the new z07's run, the sport cup 2's...
You can also look into the Michellins the new z07's run, the sport cup 2's...
10-20-2015, 11:57 AM
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The R888s (AND their RA-1s, as well as the Nitto NT-01s) are 100 tread wear 'semi-R' compound tires.
They WILL last longer than the 0 to 40 tread wear, or maybe even the 50 to 80 tread wear, 'REAL/FULL R' compound tires (BFG R1s, Hoosier A/R 6/7s, various Kumhos, various Michelins and Pirellis, etc.).
They will also be not as 'sticky' as that list above, and not pick up EVERY piece of road shrapnel, and flat like that list of tires either (their carcasses/construction are also thinner/lighter than the 100 tread wear class, so that also contributes to their puncture proneness as well
).
NASCAR tires are ONLY available in 15" diameter sizes.
They WILL last longer than the 0 to 40 tread wear, or maybe even the 50 to 80 tread wear, 'REAL/FULL R' compound tires (BFG R1s, Hoosier A/R 6/7s, various Kumhos, various Michelins and Pirellis, etc.).
They will also be not as 'sticky' as that list above, and not pick up EVERY piece of road shrapnel, and flat like that list of tires either (their carcasses/construction are also thinner/lighter than the 100 tread wear class, so that also contributes to their puncture proneness as well
).NASCAR tires are ONLY available in 15" diameter sizes.
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10-20-2015, 12:43 PM
#8
Definition of hook and traction at 1000 rwhp will never happen on a 18" wheel. If you mean a tire that you can "Feather" the throttle to get a bit of traction then sure.
1000 rwhp and traction don't go in the same sentence without a full 15" drag tire with a crap ton of side wall. There is no magic super tire... R888 is not a magic tire. Maybe the better 18" drag tire though. My definition of traction is a big more literal.
I ran the Nitto 18" drag radials on my 700 rwhp C6 Z06. Traction... was not possible except on a mild 1/40 throttle launch and after that the tires continued to smoke all the way to 100 MPH+. But it was one crazy ride. If I had to do it again I would of swapped out the rear brakes for a smaller rotor/caliper to use a smaller wheel for some real tires.
Sounds like you have something more aggressive for the track anyway?
1000 rwhp and traction don't go in the same sentence without a full 15" drag tire with a crap ton of side wall. There is no magic super tire... R888 is not a magic tire. Maybe the better 18" drag tire though. My definition of traction is a big more literal.
I ran the Nitto 18" drag radials on my 700 rwhp C6 Z06. Traction... was not possible except on a mild 1/40 throttle launch and after that the tires continued to smoke all the way to 100 MPH+. But it was one crazy ride. If I had to do it again I would of swapped out the rear brakes for a smaller rotor/caliper to use a smaller wheel for some real tires.
Sounds like you have something more aggressive for the track anyway?
Last edited by blaine123; 10-20-2015 at 12:57 PM.
10-22-2015, 08:59 AM
#9
honestly, anything over 1000 rwhp attempting to get traction in a straight line while also getting great cornering is tough. The R888's and some of the choices from Nitto would probably work as they have a decently stiff sidewall with a soft tread compound.
You can also look into the Michellins the new z07's run, the sport cup 2's...
You can also look into the Michellins the new z07's run, the sport cup 2's...
The R888s (AND their RA-1s, as well as the Nitto NT-01s) are 100 tread wear 'semi-R' compound tires.
They WILL last longer than the 0 to 40 tread wear, or maybe even the 50 to 80 tread wear, 'REAL/FULL R' compound tires (BFG R1s, Hoosier A/R 6/7s, various Kumhos, various Michelins and Pirellis, etc.).
They will also be not as 'sticky' as that list above, and not pick up EVERY piece of road shrapnel, and flat like that list of tires either (their carcasses/construction are also thinner/lighter than the 100 tread wear class, so that also contributes to their puncture proneness as well ).
NASCAR tires are ONLY available in 15" diameter sizes.
They WILL last longer than the 0 to 40 tread wear, or maybe even the 50 to 80 tread wear, 'REAL/FULL R' compound tires (BFG R1s, Hoosier A/R 6/7s, various Kumhos, various Michelins and Pirellis, etc.).
They will also be not as 'sticky' as that list above, and not pick up EVERY piece of road shrapnel, and flat like that list of tires either (their carcasses/construction are also thinner/lighter than the 100 tread wear class, so that also contributes to their puncture proneness as well
).NASCAR tires are ONLY available in 15" diameter sizes.
Definition of hook and traction at 1000 rwhp will never happen on a 18" wheel. If you mean a tire that you can "Feather" the throttle to get a bit of traction then sure.
1000 rwhp and traction don't go in the same sentence without a full 15" drag tire with a crap ton of side wall. There is no magic super tire... R888 is not a magic tire. Maybe the better 18" drag tire though. My definition of traction is a big more literal.
I ran the Nitto 18" drag radials on my 700 rwhp C6 Z06. Traction... was not possible except on a mild 1/40 throttle launch and after that the tires continued to smoke all the way to 100 MPH+. But it was one crazy ride. If I had to do it again I would of swapped out the rear brakes for a smaller rotor/caliper to use a smaller wheel for some real tires.
Sounds like you have something more aggressive for the track anyway?
1000 rwhp and traction don't go in the same sentence without a full 15" drag tire with a crap ton of side wall. There is no magic super tire... R888 is not a magic tire. Maybe the better 18" drag tire though. My definition of traction is a big more literal.
I ran the Nitto 18" drag radials on my 700 rwhp C6 Z06. Traction... was not possible except on a mild 1/40 throttle launch and after that the tires continued to smoke all the way to 100 MPH+. But it was one crazy ride. If I had to do it again I would of swapped out the rear brakes for a smaller rotor/caliper to use a smaller wheel for some real tires.
Sounds like you have something more aggressive for the track anyway?
pilot sports,...blow off if I lay into it at over 100mph....I have had lane changing wheels spins at over 145mph with them. Not really all that fun lol. An LG drop spindle is the way to go, to run 15"s.... I don't want to get into that yet. As mentioned, I have a few sets of wheels to use....one of which is a 16" CCW classics drag pack...bigs and littles... I also have a set of OEM 18" rear vette wheels with 305 nittos on it....and for this set(my fikse wheels) I wanted something that would somewhat hook. I understand I will have to pilot the thing, thats no big deal. I just want to see what people are using and liking at a similar power level and use.
It seems I'll have to just run two/3 setups. The setup is a twin turbo e85 6 speed car, full suspension, trans/etc. It is setup for track use(road course) but makes too much power without any real downforce. I plan to try some track events if I can get the power down to under 900rwhp but the car wants to make more. It's a half mile, standing mile car. I may, take off turbo kit for track days and run NA but thats a ways away.
Thanks for all the replies gents, much appreciated.
-J
10-22-2015, 09:35 AM
#10
I know it's a tough battle, thats for sure. The RA1's, though did seem to cover most all the bases. Thanks for insight.
likely, what I am gonna go with probably. Thanks guys.
Flat surface, sometimes asphalt, sometimes concrete. Depends on day, street, or track. It's a well rounded all around setup. Dunno if you're joking with the nascar thing....but those are slicks.... and this is a street car.
Thanks for the tech, I appreciate it.
Well, hooking and traction is a different story then for me. Cause, you see back when I made a mild 787rwhp,..with nitto drag radials,...my car would dead hook from 35mph...in 1st gear(C5 chassis-6 speed manual) with 305's and 18"s...it would spin at 5800rpm,...but I would just short shift 2nd,...and it would hook again. Dunno if you had a 700 HP NA setup....as that might hit a little harder on the initial HIT,..causing you to have traction issues.
pilot sports,...blow off if I lay into it at over 100mph....I have had lane changing wheels spins at over 145mph with them. Not really all that fun lol. An LG drop spindle is the way to go, to run 15"s.... I don't want to get into that yet. As mentioned, I have a few sets of wheels to use....one of which is a 16" CCW classics drag pack...bigs and littles... I also have a set of OEM 18" rear vette wheels with 305 nittos on it....and for this set(my fikse wheels) I wanted something that would somewhat hook. I understand I will have to pilot the thing, thats no big deal. I just want to see what people are using and liking at a similar power level and use.
It seems I'll have to just run two/3 setups. The setup is a twin turbo e85 6 speed car, full suspension, trans/etc. It is setup for track use(road course) but makes too much power without any real downforce. I plan to try some track events if I can get the power down to under 900rwhp but the car wants to make more. It's a half mile, standing mile car. I may, take off turbo kit for track days and run NA but thats a ways away.
Thanks for all the replies gents, much appreciated.
-J
likely, what I am gonna go with probably. Thanks guys.
Flat surface, sometimes asphalt, sometimes concrete. Depends on day, street, or track. It's a well rounded all around setup. Dunno if you're joking with the nascar thing....but those are slicks.... and this is a street car.
Thanks for the tech, I appreciate it.
Well, hooking and traction is a different story then for me. Cause, you see back when I made a mild 787rwhp,..with nitto drag radials,...my car would dead hook from 35mph...in 1st gear(C5 chassis-6 speed manual) with 305's and 18"s...it would spin at 5800rpm,...but I would just short shift 2nd,...and it would hook again. Dunno if you had a 700 HP NA setup....as that might hit a little harder on the initial HIT,..causing you to have traction issues.
pilot sports,...blow off if I lay into it at over 100mph....I have had lane changing wheels spins at over 145mph with them. Not really all that fun lol. An LG drop spindle is the way to go, to run 15"s.... I don't want to get into that yet. As mentioned, I have a few sets of wheels to use....one of which is a 16" CCW classics drag pack...bigs and littles... I also have a set of OEM 18" rear vette wheels with 305 nittos on it....and for this set(my fikse wheels) I wanted something that would somewhat hook. I understand I will have to pilot the thing, thats no big deal. I just want to see what people are using and liking at a similar power level and use.
It seems I'll have to just run two/3 setups. The setup is a twin turbo e85 6 speed car, full suspension, trans/etc. It is setup for track use(road course) but makes too much power without any real downforce. I plan to try some track events if I can get the power down to under 900rwhp but the car wants to make more. It's a half mile, standing mile car. I may, take off turbo kit for track days and run NA but thats a ways away.
Thanks for all the replies gents, much appreciated.
-J
Based on that, I think you'll have good luck with any other similar/sticky tire.
Have you by chance checked tire rack?
They have a whole section of discontinued tires, going back 2-3 years, and they're usually cheap too...might find some RA-1s or other...
10-22-2015, 12:26 PM
#11
Like said before, stay away from anything under 100TW for a street tire that you want to last and not pick up the slightest rock once warm.
Rival S are getting amazing praise from autocross guys in C5's all over the place. But then again they are not anywhere near your HP level.
IMO, you needing a stiffer sidewall tire to make it not fold around a corner has nothing to do with your HP. Why do you have your car set so stiff? Hitting the throttle in a semi built C5 on Rival S or similar 100-200TW tire in a corner will throw the rear out on you. Not until you get into the Hoosier A6/A7 will the car want to hook and go. BUT again, having such a stiff car go around a corner that is not smooth will cause chaos an no tire will help you...add in your 1000hp and forget it lol.
Hell I can get my full weight 330HP LT1 Fbody Camaro to spin out the end on Kumho V710's (40TW) just by making my rear shocks full stiff.
Moral of the story, stiff is not always better and having that much HP make issues worse lol.
What is your suspension setup consist of? Spring rates? Bar rates?
Rival S are getting amazing praise from autocross guys in C5's all over the place. But then again they are not anywhere near your HP level.
IMO, you needing a stiffer sidewall tire to make it not fold around a corner has nothing to do with your HP. Why do you have your car set so stiff? Hitting the throttle in a semi built C5 on Rival S or similar 100-200TW tire in a corner will throw the rear out on you. Not until you get into the Hoosier A6/A7 will the car want to hook and go. BUT again, having such a stiff car go around a corner that is not smooth will cause chaos an no tire will help you...add in your 1000hp and forget it lol.
Hell I can get my full weight 330HP LT1 Fbody Camaro to spin out the end on Kumho V710's (40TW) just by making my rear shocks full stiff.
Moral of the story, stiff is not always better and having that much HP make issues worse lol.
What is your suspension setup consist of? Spring rates? Bar rates?
10-22-2015, 04:04 PM
#12
IMO your car performed on the Nittos like no other car will or should. Had to be a perfect storm of gearing, trans, clutch, and weight, along with the suspension and chassis set up.
Based on that, I think you'll have good luck with any other similar/sticky tire.
Have you by chance checked tire rack?
They have a whole section of discontinued tires, going back 2-3 years, and they're usually cheap too...might find some RA-1s or other...
Based on that, I think you'll have good luck with any other similar/sticky tire.
Have you by chance checked tire rack?
They have a whole section of discontinued tires, going back 2-3 years, and they're usually cheap too...might find some RA-1s or other...
Like said before, stay away from anything under 100TW for a street tire that you want to last and not pick up the slightest rock once warm.
Rival S are getting amazing praise from autocross guys in C5's all over the place. But then again they are not anywhere near your HP level.
IMO, you needing a stiffer sidewall tire to make it not fold around a corner has nothing to do with your HP. Why do you have your car set so stiff? Hitting the throttle in a semi built C5 on Rival S or similar 100-200TW tire in a corner will throw the rear out on you. Not until you get into the Hoosier A6/A7 will the car want to hook and go. BUT again, having such a stiff car go around a corner that is not smooth will cause chaos an no tire will help you...add in your 1000hp and forget it lol.
Hell I can get my full weight 330HP LT1 Fbody Camaro to spin out the end on Kumho V710's (40TW) just by making my rear shocks full stiff.
Moral of the story, stiff is not always better and having that much HP make issues worse lol.
What is your suspension setup consist of? Spring rates? Bar rates?
Rival S are getting amazing praise from autocross guys in C5's all over the place. But then again they are not anywhere near your HP level.
IMO, you needing a stiffer sidewall tire to make it not fold around a corner has nothing to do with your HP. Why do you have your car set so stiff? Hitting the throttle in a semi built C5 on Rival S or similar 100-200TW tire in a corner will throw the rear out on you. Not until you get into the Hoosier A6/A7 will the car want to hook and go. BUT again, having such a stiff car go around a corner that is not smooth will cause chaos an no tire will help you...add in your 1000hp and forget it lol.
Hell I can get my full weight 330HP LT1 Fbody Camaro to spin out the end on Kumho V710's (40TW) just by making my rear shocks full stiff.
Moral of the story, stiff is not always better and having that much HP make issues worse lol.
What is your suspension setup consist of? Spring rates? Bar rates?
The car is setup how I want....it's not going to change. I just wanted some insight to the guys that are actually running the tires, preferably the guys making 1000rwhp or more. The guys I have talked to do not like the rival S for any real big power....not to mention, they have a smaller footprint then the R888.... I am not concerned with tire noise, I am not concerned with it picking up everything on the road, and other then lasting a month, I don't care so much with longevity. I am concerned with traction, and stability. I understand the tradeoff between being able to corner, and being able to have grip in a straight line... bottom line is drag radials don't have high speed stability,...I am looking for more so on my road setup...
I already have this for the business end...which I will be changing to a drag radial soon.
Thanks for your insight.
10-24-2015, 01:25 AM
#17
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), if you MUST have a 'streetable' tire.If not, your best bet would be a Hoosier R7, in the dry at least.