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So let me start out by saying I have been using ls1 tech as a go to refference guide for years. Now that I cant find an exact answer and cant afford any screw ups beild wise(my daily driver) I need some help!!!
The root of my post is relative to me ordereing my forgestar F14 super deep concave's with the correct offset. I want to have them tuck as tight to the wheelwell as possibe even if a >(little)< fender rolling is necessary. I will be running 18x10 in the rear with continental dw 295/35/18. 18x9 & dw 285/35/18 in front.
I am looking for some solid advise offset wise so they will tuck nicely but narrowing the rear for optimal fit is an option aswell...
Here is a list of all other components that will look to be installed flawlessly during this time.
Moser 12 bolt rear end
Koni complete street shock kit (comes with custom tuned eidbach lowering springs.
Strano swaybars
04-06 cts-v brembo brakes.
13" inch drilled & slotted rotor
Adjustable panhard bar
Subframe connectors
American racing longtubes & y pipe( will have exhaust shop try and fabricate from the area where cats would be and back...
Anyways I know this is a cluttered post but any experience on the whole offset thing would be greatly appreciated. Suggestions are welcome to better my setup or components list
Ps my phone is going nuts so im not responible for any typographical errors
Thanks!!!!!!
I agree with the above to call Sam Strano and order though him to get correct offsets.
Originally Posted by jjjetplane
So let me start out by saying I have been using ls1 tech as a go to refference guide for years. Now that I cant find an exact answer and cant afford any screw ups beild wise(my daily driver) I need some help!!!
The root of my post is relative to me ordereing my forgestar F14 super deep concave's with the correct offset. I want to have them tuck as tight to the wheelwell as possibe even if a >(little)< fender rolling is necessary. I will be running 18x10 in the rear with continental dw 295/35/18. 18x9 & dw 285/35/18 in front.
First, ideally for auto-x you want to run a square setup on these cars, meaning the same size front and rear. Guys are getting away with running 11" wide wheels front and rear with minimal mods to fit them and using 315 tires all around.
I am looking for some solid advise offset wise so they will tuck nicely but narrowing the rear for optimal fit is an option aswell...
Here is a list of all other components that will look to be installed flawlessly during this time.
Moser 12 bolt rear end
Koni complete street shock kit (comes with custom tuned eidbach lowering springs.
Strano swaybars
04-06 cts-v brembo brakes.
13" inch drilled & slotted rotor
Adjustable panhard bar
Subframe connectors
American racing longtubes & y pipe( will have exhaust shop try and fabricate from the area where cats would be and back...
If this car is used primarily for auto-x why are you adding a heavier rear end? All that is going to do is slow you down and make your wallet lighter.
Use the money saved from not buying a rear end and put that toward a watts link.
The CTS-V brakes are over kill but won't hurt, and drilled rotors are great for getting cracks while not helping your stopping power at all, stick with blank quality rotors.
Don't buy the eibach springs with the konis, get a set of strano springs and Koni sport SA's.
Yeah I was thinking about calling sam and getting his take on things. But reason for the heavier rear end is because I currently have a problem in the rear end. I will be putting this car through hell as a daily driver and on the course when i get it built out... Ps I have had two other ss camaro's of which i blew up the rear ends in no time!!!
Yeah I was thinking about calling sam and getting his take on things. But reason for the heavier rear end is because I currently have a problem in the rear end. I will be putting this car through hell as a daily driver and on the course when i get it built out... Ps I have had two other ss camaro's of which i blew up the rear ends in no time!!!
As long as you are not doing 6000rpm clutch dumps on drag radials you should be fine. All the road race guys run the 10 bolts with no problems. The 10 bolt is less unsprung weight and will have the car handling and feeling better for a road course and autox.
Im making 430rwhp/420ft.lbs and still on my stock 10 bolt with an M6...
I plan to run a square 315 setup. My 18x11 F14's with 40mm offset should be here next week. Ill let you know about the fitment though I've read TA's have more clearance than Camaros.
Ill be running four 315/30/18 Toyo R888's. Theyre huge compared to my current 275's lol
Jd I live on country roads so all my rear ends I twist up are under extreme conditions such heavy heavy braking and downshifting and pulling out of courners really really hard... Its just different then auto x lower speed courses i guess... Regular speeds are from 60-145 or so!!
M4 please do let me know how those end up fittin and did u get them in the super deep concave or deep concave???
Thanks fellas
IF you MUST go with that 12 bolt, at least put a Wavetrac diff in it to help you launch off of corner apexes, MUCH MUCH better than a Truetrac, or pretty much anything else that will fit into a 12 bolt for handling purposes.
Jd I live on country roads so all my rear ends I twist up are under extreme conditions such heavy heavy braking and downshifting and pulling out of courners really really hard... Its just different then auto x lower speed courses i guess... Regular speeds are from 60-145 or so!!
M4 please do let me know how those end up fittin and did u get them in the super deep concave or deep concave???
Thanks fellas
Jd I live on country roads so all my rear ends I twist up are under extreme conditions such heavy heavy braking and downshifting and pulling out of courners really really hard... Its just different then auto x lower speed courses i guess... Regular speeds are from 60-145 or so!!
Thats still not enough stress to have issues compared to the guys who road race them on 315 R compound tires and have no problems.
What exactly are you breaking when you break them? Are you getting any wheel hop?
Its always the ring and pinion gears that go. They are so freaking noisy aswell between ring and pinion not lining up properly or cracking some gears. Or better yet the free floating axle bearings that get wore down in 5k miles at most!!
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Fitting the right wheel tire for AutoX 
