Need narrowest 275 drag radial on 15 inch rim
10-28-2005, 04:11 PM
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Need narrowest 275 drag radial on 15 inch rim I just got some 15 x 8 inch rims with MT 26 x 10.0 ET Drags on them. They have severe rubbing issues on the outside. I was going to switch to drag radials anyway...so who has the narrowest 275 drag radials? I always heard that Nitto tires run on the small side, is this true? I hate to go to a smaller tire, but may have to.
Thanks ya'll!
Galen
Thanks ya'll!
Galen
10-29-2005, 03:19 PM
#5
I'd suggest purchasing wheels that are correct for your car and picking up the correct style tires for the application.
We build the designs for our Bogarts back in Dec 03 and made them specific for your car. Not only are the tires your considering incorrect for the wheel, the wheel itself is the incorrect bolt pattern for your setup.
For the difference in price...not only are you getting a superier designed wheel and lighter, you are also getting the correct wheels built for your application. From an appearance standpoint, an economy style wheel doesn't compare to ours. It's your decision in the end though.
If you change your thinking, let me know and I can help you build the wheels that you need.
Steve
We build the designs for our Bogarts back in Dec 03 and made them specific for your car. Not only are the tires your considering incorrect for the wheel, the wheel itself is the incorrect bolt pattern for your setup.
For the difference in price...not only are you getting a superier designed wheel and lighter, you are also getting the correct wheels built for your application. From an appearance standpoint, an economy style wheel doesn't compare to ours. It's your decision in the end though.
If you change your thinking, let me know and I can help you build the wheels that you need.
Steve
10-29-2005, 04:30 PM
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Steve, thanks for your imput. As for the tires not being correct for the rims, Mickey Thompson had no problem with a 275 (either 50 or 60 series) on an 8 inch rim.
I would also like to see your explanation of exactly the bolt circle is not correct. How many sets of 4.75 rims have you attempted to bolt up to a GTO/Monaro? Since I know someone in your industry would never use mixed units of measure and to save any foolishness, feel free to express all units in inches. Listing both the bolt circle (diameter) and the distance each bolt is from the centerline (radius) would be appreciated. Here is a handy link for the conversions: http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm
Thanks for your concerns!
Galen
I would also like to see your explanation of exactly the bolt circle is not correct. How many sets of 4.75 rims have you attempted to bolt up to a GTO/Monaro? Since I know someone in your industry would never use mixed units of measure and to save any foolishness, feel free to express all units in inches. Listing both the bolt circle (diameter) and the distance each bolt is from the centerline (radius) would be appreciated. Here is a handy link for the conversions: http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm
Thanks for your concerns!
Galen
10-29-2005, 05:17 PM
#7
Galen,
You're welcome. All three tires are ~10" at the bead. A 10" wheel is optimum; I would never go lower then 8.5 on ANY of them. These are not my specs, they are MT specs, they do not recommend using a large tire on a small 8* wheel as you're considering.
Regarding bolting up different wheels to different hub patterns...certainly I've done it to test fit a particular wheel during prototype testing phase to evaluate caliper/rotor interference issues as well as overall fitment in the wheel-well. Certainly I would not build a wheel with a different bolt pattern and sell it to a customer which was incorrectly setup.
The bolt circle unit of measurement is SI for your hub. If you want to convert British to SI use X"x25.4mm (X is the number in inches). The wheel you purchased is 5x120.65mm but your hub is 5x120mm.
You're budget may not be in line with our wheels, there are choices to consider. If you are happy with what your working with now, that is all that matters. I am not scorning your choices...Many folks are not a wheel expert or an Engineer as I am. I do want to point out to others whom may consider a similar setup you chose that it is not built correctly for your car regarding backspacing as well as tire choice. You may have not considered fitment issues and relied on others to help you choose the wheels.
Our wheels are worth the money in every respect. Personally, I'd setup correctly what you need and be riding on a safe correctly designed setup. I take what I do very seriously; this is my area of expertise.
I have discussed 8” wheel considerations previously in other recent posts. Nothing wrong with an 8” wheel…you should not be using 275’s, 11.5 Streets or 10 drags on them.
You're welcome. All three tires are ~10" at the bead. A 10" wheel is optimum; I would never go lower then 8.5 on ANY of them. These are not my specs, they are MT specs, they do not recommend using a large tire on a small 8* wheel as you're considering.
Regarding bolting up different wheels to different hub patterns...certainly I've done it to test fit a particular wheel during prototype testing phase to evaluate caliper/rotor interference issues as well as overall fitment in the wheel-well. Certainly I would not build a wheel with a different bolt pattern and sell it to a customer which was incorrectly setup.
The bolt circle unit of measurement is SI for your hub. If you want to convert British to SI use X"x25.4mm (X is the number in inches). The wheel you purchased is 5x120.65mm but your hub is 5x120mm.
You're budget may not be in line with our wheels, there are choices to consider. If you are happy with what your working with now, that is all that matters. I am not scorning your choices...Many folks are not a wheel expert or an Engineer as I am. I do want to point out to others whom may consider a similar setup you chose that it is not built correctly for your car regarding backspacing as well as tire choice. You may have not considered fitment issues and relied on others to help you choose the wheels.
Our wheels are worth the money in every respect. Personally, I'd setup correctly what you need and be riding on a safe correctly designed setup. I take what I do very seriously; this is my area of expertise.
I have discussed 8” wheel considerations previously in other recent posts. Nothing wrong with an 8” wheel…you should not be using 275’s, 11.5 Streets or 10 drags on them.
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10-29-2005, 07:25 PM
#8
Originally Posted by steve10
All three tires are ~10" at the bead. A 10" wheel is optimum; I would never go lower then 8.5 on ANY of them. These are not my specs, they are MT specs, they do not recommend using a large tire on a small 8* wheel as you're considering.
10-29-2005, 07:43 PM
#9
Originally Posted by slow3hoe2
a 275-60-15 drag radial will work better on an 8" rim than it does on a 10" rim. it is a PROVEN fact.
You are using a 10 inch wheel which is correct for your tire. If what you have read was a proven better setup, you should have gone with the smaller wheel.
My statements are based on the tire manufacture specifications. These specification are made for a reason. Tire beads can fail, additional stress is placed on the wheel and bead surface area and the tire footprint are all components that are affected when tires are mounted on improperly sized wheels.
This is a very odd topic...it seems many understand not to use for example a 315/35/17 on a 9.5 wheel agrees that it is not setup correctly...but some using a 275/50/15 on a 8" wheel is ok??
Obviously there is an acceptable range min/max tire size that can be used on a variety of wheel widths...the above tires are out of range by a good 1/2 inch of the MIN range suggested.
10-30-2005, 04:00 AM
#10
my statement is based on the fact that i am involved in running a nmra factor stock car which uses those tires and we have done extensive research on many different combos trying to get the best traction. when switched to a 10" rim from an 8" rim...and changing NOTHING else, the traction was noticably worse. this is on the BEST 60'ing f/s car in the class. the proper rim size stated by the manufacture for a 275-60-15 is a 8.5" wide rim. the problem is that when you spread the tire out with the wider rim...you need to use more air pressure to get the tire to make even contact with the track surface...which makes the tire stiffer.
the tire will work exeptionally well on a 10' rim (especially a m/t) but it works better on a narrower rim. the 275-60 is actually much narrower than the 275-50. i run a 10" rim on my car with a 275-50 but i think it would work better with a 9" rim.
the tire will work exeptionally well on a 10' rim (especially a m/t) but it works better on a narrower rim. the 275-60 is actually much narrower than the 275-50. i run a 10" rim on my car with a 275-50 but i think it would work better with a 9" rim.
10-30-2005, 08:45 AM
#11
The 275/60 is a completely different height tire. This particular tire has 8” near the bead. An 8” wheel is a better choice over a 10. The 275/60 has a much larger diameter and not really in the discussion (I know it was mentioned but won’t fit in the wheel well of his car without additional modifications...which he was trying to resolve in the first place. It would also cause other problems.
If anything, maybe it will be good reading for others. Our discussion will not help Galan in any way; hopefully he will resolve his stumbling block.
Good luck
If anything, maybe it will be good reading for others. Our discussion will not help Galan in any way; hopefully he will resolve his stumbling block.
Good luck
10-30-2005, 12:44 PM
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Steve, my point was that there is a .65 mm difference in diameters of the bolt circle, or .325mm radius from center for each bolt. To put this in perspective, your little finger is about 1cm wide. The amount each bolt is "off" is about 325/10,000 as wide as your little finger. In your test fitting of standard rims, you found they bolted right up with absolutely no difficulty. On my Weld rims, there is NO play between the lugs and the rim. If there were a problem with the bolt pattern, there would be no way to even start all the lugs...only one lug would start, and the rest would not be able.
The Bogart rim is by all means an outstanding wheel. If money were no object, I would have given you a call. I, like many other GTO owners, am on a budget. While I understand your desire to maintain the percieved monopoly that Bogart has over the GTO due to bolt circle, this is simply a non issue. The Austrailians have been running the Weld/Cragar rims on their Monaros for years. As far as widths and backspacing, I know my choices are not optimal. The rims will only be used once a month for at most 2 days and 100 miles, I cannot justify the added expense at this time to step up to a more costly recreational rim. Hence the reason I am trying to make a non-optimal rim fit my situation. We are talking about at most 1/8 inch rubbing on one side...not a large amount. I will probably try a Nitto 275/50 to try to pull the sidewall in a little. Heck, if it doesn't hook quite as well, that may be a good thing for my IRS life!
Galen
The Bogart rim is by all means an outstanding wheel. If money were no object, I would have given you a call. I, like many other GTO owners, am on a budget. While I understand your desire to maintain the percieved monopoly that Bogart has over the GTO due to bolt circle, this is simply a non issue. The Austrailians have been running the Weld/Cragar rims on their Monaros for years. As far as widths and backspacing, I know my choices are not optimal. The rims will only be used once a month for at most 2 days and 100 miles, I cannot justify the added expense at this time to step up to a more costly recreational rim. Hence the reason I am trying to make a non-optimal rim fit my situation. We are talking about at most 1/8 inch rubbing on one side...not a large amount. I will probably try a Nitto 275/50 to try to pull the sidewall in a little. Heck, if it doesn't hook quite as well, that may be a good thing for my IRS life!
Galen
10-30-2005, 01:09 PM
#13
Originally Posted by steve10
The 275/60 is a completely different height tire. This particular tire has 8” near the bead. An 8” wheel is a better choice over a 10. The 275/60 has a much larger diameter and not really in the discussion (I know it was mentioned but won’t fit in the wheel well of his car without additional modifications...which he was trying to resolve in the first place. It would also cause other problems.
If anything, maybe it will be good reading for others. Our discussion will not help Galan in any way; hopefully he will resolve his stumbling block.
Good luck
If anything, maybe it will be good reading for others. Our discussion will not help Galan in any way; hopefully he will resolve his stumbling block.
Good luck
10-30-2005, 02:00 PM
#14
SLow3hoe, not a problem...I think you're comments were helpful for others:-). I'm not sure if I"m helping much either.
Galen,
If you feel ok with what you’re using then by all means, I do wish you luck. I was attempting to educate you or others possibly in the same situation. My background lies in Mech. Engineering and design.
I do not like to make due when there are alternatives. Others as you say using similar incorrect setups may not be aware what is available in the market…others may be following their idols not knowing what is correct or safe. Certainly purchasing USA made components in Australia isn’t an inexpensive prospect nor may they be as readily available.
There are many misconceptions and misunderstanding of many racing components on the internet. The internet is very good for resources, but opinions should be taken with a grain of salt. This is very important since you don’t know the educational background of the writer.
I wasn't aware we have a monopoly on bolt patterns...I'm sure there are others that can accommodate you with correct bolt patterns. Though I would love to see our wheels on every person’s car, I know this is not a reality.
…I understand you are attempting to validate the difference, though being small, there is a difference. The bolt pattern does make a difference it spreads sheer load incorrectly placing additional stress on some studs, less on others. It is certainly a recipe for bolt failure. 60 deg lugs make it worse where they won't seat correctly which results in improper torque and loosening of lug-nuts.
These are issues that I am unsure you are aware of...since I do not know your background; I mean no disrespect if this is common knowledge to you and your education. It may be food for thought for others.
***Though this may not be an option for you know since you already purchased your wheels…this may be a consideration to others before they purchase a wheel that is not setup correctly raising issues with safety as well as fitment.
…If you weren't aware, we do have economy series wheel that is right in line with a Prostar that would fit your budget...I could build and fit those up for you also. They have much better backspace options as well as the correct bolt pattern for your car.***
Galen,
If you feel ok with what you’re using then by all means, I do wish you luck. I was attempting to educate you or others possibly in the same situation. My background lies in Mech. Engineering and design.
I do not like to make due when there are alternatives. Others as you say using similar incorrect setups may not be aware what is available in the market…others may be following their idols not knowing what is correct or safe. Certainly purchasing USA made components in Australia isn’t an inexpensive prospect nor may they be as readily available.
There are many misconceptions and misunderstanding of many racing components on the internet. The internet is very good for resources, but opinions should be taken with a grain of salt. This is very important since you don’t know the educational background of the writer.
I wasn't aware we have a monopoly on bolt patterns...I'm sure there are others that can accommodate you with correct bolt patterns. Though I would love to see our wheels on every person’s car, I know this is not a reality.
…I understand you are attempting to validate the difference, though being small, there is a difference. The bolt pattern does make a difference it spreads sheer load incorrectly placing additional stress on some studs, less on others. It is certainly a recipe for bolt failure. 60 deg lugs make it worse where they won't seat correctly which results in improper torque and loosening of lug-nuts.
These are issues that I am unsure you are aware of...since I do not know your background; I mean no disrespect if this is common knowledge to you and your education. It may be food for thought for others.
***Though this may not be an option for you know since you already purchased your wheels…this may be a consideration to others before they purchase a wheel that is not setup correctly raising issues with safety as well as fitment.
…If you weren't aware, we do have economy series wheel that is right in line with a Prostar that would fit your budget...I could build and fit those up for you also. They have much better backspace options as well as the correct bolt pattern for your car.***
