I know that if you run similar tire heights that it wont mess with the ABS but if Im running a a low profile tire on a 17/18 set up Im sure that the differnce will be a more than a inch difference in height. With that cause a problem with the ABS and if so what can I do to fix the problem other than run 18s all around

 

With an inch in difference of height...your ABS will not operate correctly. Some folks are hesitant towards the removal of ABS due to some misconceptions.

Very simple fix: remove your ABS. This will remove any headache you'll ever see with ABS no matter what size tire you choose...you're also removing potential troubleshooting from standard ABS malfunctions seen down the road! ONE less thing that you have to worry about with the car...

1) Removal of ABS does not affect normal braking capabilities. In fact, if you have never used ABS, you’d never know you removed it.
2) ABS is only operated during hard braking where it controls locking up a wheel during skidding. If you have drastically changed your wheels, brakes or combinations…braking may not be biased correctly creating issues with proper functionality of ABS.

Some seem to do everything in their power to retain ABS when they don’t use it or haven’t ever used it. Instead of creating new headaches, spending additional funds on retaining something that is not used, remove it! ABS as an option on an aftermarket rear ends is quite expensive. Savings up to 200.00 can be seen by not choosing ABS.

ABS seems to be quite troublesome with F-bodies. This is probably due to the fact the car is mostly used as a race vehicle …changing to aftermarket components and extreme conditions seen. Removing ABS can create quite a bit of needed room in the engine bay. This cleans up the already overcrowded area for turbo or supercharger applications. It also can increase air flow while loosing ~15lbs from the front end!

When removing ABS, we recommend using a proportioning valve. We manufacture a complete ABS delete kit that enables you to completely remove the ABS modulator and associated brackets. We include an adjustable valve with every kit we manufacture. Every pre-formed line, fitting and even a line lock is included with the kit…everything necessary! The valve is a necessary component to correctly bias your front/rear brake pressure so that optimum braking is seen.

 

How big a difference are you talking about? I went from 16" stock wheels to 18x9.5" and the overall difference is only 0.2"--no effect on the ABS at all.

 

I assumed he is referring to 1" in different in overall diameter...maybe not. Anything over .5" in overall diameter, ABS will start to complain. It will start to activate more often when they are not necessary.

Steve

 

Steve is right

Im going to run a tire that is close to about 26inches in overall diameter.
For me to do that on a 17inch wheel the sidewall would be alot taller on it than the 18inch wheel. Which I dont want and it would look horrible. I want similar sidewall heights which will but over a 1 differce prolly more like 1.5 inches.

Your stayed the same bc you went from a medium profile tire to a low profile tire that kept the overall diameter the same but lowered the Sidewall hieght

 

My ABS started acting funny when I put my drag wheels on. I have 255/50/16's in the rear and 245/50/16's in the front. Just that little bit of difference had the ABS coming on after a run when I'd get on the brakes. It's a little scary when you're doing over 100mph and the ABS barely starts coming on. I don't want to remove ABS on my car as I'm trying to keep it stock and I do more street driving than drag racing. I believe you can pull the ABS fuses to keep it from kicking on but I haven't tried this.

 

That's along the lines of what I was trying to say. At some point, the sensor ring begins to think the wheel is spinning at a rate different than it should because the circumference of the tire is wrong. I'd heard it was important any time you deviate by more than +/-0.5" from the 25.7" stock diameter. What Steve is saying seems to back that up.

 

The easiest way to correct ABS issues is remove it. Down the road, it will avoid headaches, expense and issues of trying to "work around something".

There is an acceptable deviance between pulses before ABS activates...for the guys whom are just slightly off...this makes it just that much easier for ABS to become active...usually at the times that you don't want it!

Remember, the ONLY time ANYONE uese ABS is when they feel pulsing in their brakes...if you have never felt this pulse feeling...then you've NEVER used ABS. Removing ABS will have NO effect on normal driving or give you spongier feeling brakes. Actually using a separate proportioning valve can actually inprove your braking if you have modified the car with different size tires, brakes, pads etc. This is why our kits include a proportioning valve. The car is optimized (cost prohibative means) for the STOCK components...when you deviate and start using aftermarket components, you are not at optiminum.

 

So what do I all need to remove and convert the ABS

 

Well, we have a kit that enables you to completely remove your ABS modulator as well as all associated brackets to clean up the engine bay best and remove the most mass possible. You'll drop ~15lbs on an LS1 from teh engine bay...this is probably the easiest method.

Our ABS kits include pre-formed lines, fittings and all necessary components.

Our ABS delete kits range from 139.99-269.99 depending on your needs. Even the most basic kit includes a proportioning valve, pre-formed lines and all fittings necessary for 139.99...

 

Steve do you acually need the flaring tool if you have the preformed lines
Will I need it if I get the kit with the line lock

 

I had no problems with my Z06 wheels 17/18. I had 245s on the front, 295's on the rear.

 

When you connect the pre-formed lines, you need to connect them to the stock lines down near the k-member. You need to cut your stock lines so they will mate. When you cut the stock lines, you need to add a new double flare. This is why you need a double flaring tool.

Our kits are optioned with or without the tool. If you have one that works well, then you don't need to repurchase a new one. The fittings for all connections are included, even where you cut the lines.

The only way around this is if we formed lines going all the way up to each rotor...

 

Get 18's on all four corners. Problem solved.

 

Most have to deal with ABS at some point. Removing it is an easy way to drop ~15 lbs from your car while cleaning up the overly clutter engine bay at relatively little expense. For the folks buying a rear end...much less hassles while also costing less if they don't choose the ABS optioned rear-end.

Anthing less to troubleshoot in the end makes life much better.

Most folks use the cars for drag or road race applications. ABS causes more trouble and more issues then its worth.

Steve