Sumitomo HTR Z?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 653
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From: Mannheim, Germany
Originally Posted by QUICK305
I see. However, at $440 a set shipped (275s & 315s) I don't know how you can go wrong if you're just looking for something for your driver.
These tires suck.
If you don't notice at first you'll realize it when you get to about 50% tread. (Or you'll think you picked up 500hp somehow.) One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that the sidewalls are MUSHY.
When you figure in s/h, the nitto d/r's at onlylike 15$ more and they are way better in all situations except <30 degrees.
Put it this way, on tuesday, I had D/R's and I was powersliding and powershifting like a mad man with full confidence. Then on wednesday, I put the htrz's on and now 1st and 2nd gear are a joke and I'm too scared of the oversteer and washy sidewalls to attemp powering through a corner.
Considering how much I've spent on everything else on my car to get it how I like it, it wasn't worth saving 30$.
...see for yourself though
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,265
Likes: 1
From: CHITOWN
Originally Posted by kenkaru
Here's my last warning:
These tires suck.
If you don't notice at first you'll realize it when you get to about 50% tread. (Or you'll think you picked up 500hp somehow.) One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that the sidewalls are MUSHY.
When you figure in s/h, the nitto d/r's at onlylike 15$ more and they are way better in all situations except <30 degrees.
Put it this way, on tuesday, I had D/R's and I was powersliding and powershifting like a mad man with full confidence. Then on wednesday, I put the htrz's on and now 1st and 2nd gear are a joke and I'm too scared of the oversteer and washy sidewalls to attemp powering through a corner.
Considering how much I've spent on everything else on my car to get it how I like it, it wasn't worth saving 30$.
...see for yourself though
These tires suck.
If you don't notice at first you'll realize it when you get to about 50% tread. (Or you'll think you picked up 500hp somehow.) One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that the sidewalls are MUSHY.
When you figure in s/h, the nitto d/r's at onlylike 15$ more and they are way better in all situations except <30 degrees.
Put it this way, on tuesday, I had D/R's and I was powersliding and powershifting like a mad man with full confidence. Then on wednesday, I put the htrz's on and now 1st and 2nd gear are a joke and I'm too scared of the oversteer and washy sidewalls to attemp powering through a corner.
Considering how much I've spent on everything else on my car to get it how I like it, it wasn't worth saving 30$.
...see for yourself though
Originally Posted by kenkaru
Here's my last warning:
These tires suck.
If you don't notice at first you'll realize it when you get to about 50% tread. (Or you'll think you picked up 500hp somehow.) One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that the sidewalls are MUSHY.
When you figure in s/h, the nitto d/r's at onlylike 15$ more and they are way better in all situations except <30 degrees.
Put it this way, on tuesday, I had D/R's and I was powersliding and powershifting like a mad man with full confidence. Then on wednesday, I put the htrz's on and now 1st and 2nd gear are a joke and I'm too scared of the oversteer and washy sidewalls to attemp powering through a corner.
Considering how much I've spent on everything else on my car to get it how I like it, it wasn't worth saving 30$.
...see for yourself though
These tires suck.
If you don't notice at first you'll realize it when you get to about 50% tread. (Or you'll think you picked up 500hp somehow.) One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that the sidewalls are MUSHY.
When you figure in s/h, the nitto d/r's at onlylike 15$ more and they are way better in all situations except <30 degrees.
Put it this way, on tuesday, I had D/R's and I was powersliding and powershifting like a mad man with full confidence. Then on wednesday, I put the htrz's on and now 1st and 2nd gear are a joke and I'm too scared of the oversteer and washy sidewalls to attemp powering through a corner.
Considering how much I've spent on everything else on my car to get it how I like it, it wasn't worth saving 30$.
...see for yourself though
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
From: Mannheim, Germany
Haha no you don't get it.
1. The D/Rs are even better in the rain just not when it's cold ( <30 )or snowy.
2. The HTRZ's aren't a winter tire anyway.
3. I only have one car. I recommend using stock wheels and cheap snow tires.
Actually the Nittos are awesome at 50% hehe
Ok but I just wanted to recommend a great 315 tire with decent price. I know you want to stick up for them because you have them on your car but you should really consider the Kumho/Nitto combo next time and I promise you'll be blown away with the awesomeness.
For anyone who has not seen one of these in person, I'll describe it for you...
1. imagine a 7.5 inch wide snow tire
2. now enlarge all of the tread gaps enough to make it 11 inches wide
3. this is a sumitomo HTRz super high performance tire
It's even better than it sounds. OH BABY!
This is a fun thread.
1. The D/Rs are even better in the rain just not when it's cold ( <30 )or snowy.
2. The HTRZ's aren't a winter tire anyway.
3. I only have one car. I recommend using stock wheels and cheap snow tires.
If you put any street tire on that has 50% tread and drive like a fool or idiot your going to get the same results.
Some of us are looking for a decent 315 street tire with a decent price
For anyone who has not seen one of these in person, I'll describe it for you...
1. imagine a 7.5 inch wide snow tire
2. now enlarge all of the tread gaps enough to make it 11 inches wide
3. this is a sumitomo HTRz super high performance tire
It's even better than it sounds. OH BABY!
This is a fun thread.
Originally Posted by kenkaru
Haha no you don't get it.
1. The D/Rs are even better in the rain just not when it's cold ( <30 )or
Ok but I just wanted to recommend a great 315 tire with decent price. I know you want to stick up for them because you have them on your car but you should really consider the Kumho/Nitto combo next time and I promise you'll be blown away with the awesomeness.
1. The D/Rs are even better in the rain just not when it's cold ( <30 )or
Ok but I just wanted to recommend a great 315 tire with decent price. I know you want to stick up for them because you have them on your car but you should really consider the Kumho/Nitto combo next time and I promise you'll be blown away with the awesomeness.
Originally Posted by kenkaru
2. The HTRZ's aren't a winter tire anyway.
Lets see here the cheapest kumo i found on tire rack was 108.99 and that was rated a 6/32nds with a W speed rating.
The cheapest Sumitomo was 88.99 with 9/32nds and a ZR Speed Rating..
Now if im going to be placing 1 of the 2 tires on the front of my car it would probably be the one's that has the higher tread wear... Reason being #1 Cheaper in price, #2 My tires cannot be rotated so the 9/32's should last longer then the 6/32nds on the kumo's. seeing that W and ZR and in the same speed rating family sidewall stiffness and flexabilty is going to be the same. So i don't see a benifet of using those kumo's i talked about above on the front.. FYI im only stating facts... im not even runing sumitomos in the fronts, only the rears, i have Eagle F1 supercars in the front.
Now for the rears.. i drive my car on the street more then at the track, so once again i have no use for a drag radial, with the experience i had with them when caught on a litte wet road, im more confident driving on wet roads with my sumitomo tires then nitto drag radials.
Now you can keep campaining to folks to use Nittos for the rear because there just so much better, but you have to compare street tires to street tires.. not a DR to street tire. but i believe the intended topic of this thread was to find a decent street tire.
Last edited by SmokedOutZ28; Feb 15, 2006 at 12:32 PM.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
From: Mannheim, Germany
Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
1. i had nittos DR's on the back of my car, i went through a town where it had just rained and the roads were wet, i went around a corner at 30mph and the *** end of the car slid out on me and whacked a curb... ruining my draglites and my 2 month old tires.. so i know how they perform and they are not a tire to be using in the rain IMO.
Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
If you put any street tire on that has 50% tread and drive like a fool or idiot your going to get the same results.
Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
Lets see here the cheapest kumo i found on tire rack was 108.99 and that was rated a 6/32nds with a W speed rating.
The cheapest Sumitomo was 88.99 with 9/32nds and a ZR Speed Rating..
The cheapest Sumitomo was 88.99 with 9/32nds and a ZR Speed Rating..
but you have to compare street tires to street tires
Last edited by kenkaru; Feb 15, 2006 at 01:21 PM.
Originally Posted by kenkaru
I'll respond to this with a quote:
So I guess that proves they are the cheapest pieces of crap out there. For $40 extra per pair, you could get some nice Kumhos.
Are you sure you don't drive a Honda?
So I guess that proves they are the cheapest pieces of crap out there. For $40 extra per pair, you could get some nice Kumhos.
Are you sure you don't drive a Honda?
As for the tires i have no more need to defend them since i've proven my point by comparing the 2. Until someone gets out there and compares the tires in the same sizes and same conditions you can't justify spending more for a equal or lesser product.
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Thanks for all the replies...I just want to add that I am not concerned about winter driving (I live in Texas), and rarely visit the track. Looking for something that will give me decent handling on the street with acceptable treadwear.
FWIW I've been through a set or two of the Kumhos and wasn't really that impressed. Granted, I don't really have anything negative to say about them, but they didn't exactly blow me away either. I needed a cheap tire, so I gave the Kumhos a shot. I don't think I got the most out of mine since I wasn't rotating them regularly, but I believe I was able to get around 15k out of them (It might have been a little more, I can't remember).
If the Sumitomos will last 15k+, I'd be satisfied because I can never really seem to get much more life out of a set of tires on these cars anyway.
FWIW I've been through a set or two of the Kumhos and wasn't really that impressed. Granted, I don't really have anything negative to say about them, but they didn't exactly blow me away either. I needed a cheap tire, so I gave the Kumhos a shot. I don't think I got the most out of mine since I wasn't rotating them regularly, but I believe I was able to get around 15k out of them (It might have been a little more, I can't remember).
If the Sumitomos will last 15k+, I'd be satisfied because I can never really seem to get much more life out of a set of tires on these cars anyway.
As always I am just overwhelmed with the amount of incorrect information and what not in the sumitumo threads, or in any tire thread for that matter. Here are the facts. I have a ~400rwhp firebird with full suspension and everything. I can spin the sumitumo's just by hitting the gas in 2nd gear (traction sucks, period) I have the khumo 712's on the front (275/40/17). The contact path on the 315's is a 1/2" smaller than those. It was about 10-10.5" wide. GS-D3's are somewhere around 13-13.5 I believe. Last time I checked a 315 should be bigger than a 275. This is with 35 psi in the front (275's) and 30 psi in the back (315's) Since when does the treadwear rating determine how well a tire grips? A low treadwear means the tire will wear fast. So a gs-d3 is not going to wear as fast a the sumitumo. This frustrates me to see that people are trying to convince people to buy this crappy tire. Then the people lie to themselves saying that the tire is fine even though it sucks so they don't feel like an idiot because they bought it after countless people told them they suck.
I have had the sumitumo's for about 10,000 miles and they have 4/32" of tread left. Keep in mind I haven't ever done a "burn-out." Just the crappy traction when I punch it in second and the spinning in third. I don't even try to hit it in first anymore because I won't go anywhere. I've tried it a couple time.
It was about 10-10.5" wide. GS-D3's are somewhere around 13-13.5 I believe. Last time I checked a 315 should be bigger than a 275. This is with 35 psi in the front (275's) and 30 psi in the back (315's) Since when does the treadwear rating determine how well a tire grips? A low treadwear means the tire will wear fast. So a gs-d3 is not going to wear as fast a the sumitumo. This frustrates me to see that people are trying to convince people to buy this crappy tire. Then the people lie to themselves saying that the tire is fine even though it sucks so they don't feel like an idiot because they bought it after countless people told them they suck.I have had the sumitumo's for about 10,000 miles and they have 4/32" of tread left. Keep in mind I haven't ever done a "burn-out." Just the crappy traction when I punch it in second and the spinning in third. I don't even try to hit it in first anymore because I won't go anywhere. I've tried it a couple time.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
From: Mannheim, Germany
As always I am just overwhelmed with the amount of incorrect information and what not in the sumitumo threads, or in any tire thread for that matter. Here are the facts. I have a ~400rwhp firebird with full suspension and everything. I can spin the sumitumo's just by hitting the gas in 2nd gear (traction sucks, period) I have the khumo 712's on the front (275/40/17). The contact path on the 315's is a 1/2" smaller than those. It was about 10-10.5" wide. GS-D3's are somewhere around 13-13.5 I believe. Last time I checked a 315 should be bigger than a 275. This is with 35 psi in the front (275's) and 30 psi in the back (315's) Since when does the treadwear rating determine how well a tire grips? A low treadwear means the tire will wear fast. So a gs-d3 is not going to wear as fast a the sumitumo. This frustrates me to see that people are trying to convince people to buy this crappy tire. Then the people lie to themselves saying that the tire is fine even though it sucks so they don't feel like an idiot because they bought it after countless people told them they suck.
I have had the sumitumo's for about 10,000 miles and they have 4/32" of tread left. Keep in mind I haven't ever done a "burn-out." Just the crappy traction when I punch it in second and the spinning in third. I don't even try to hit it in first anymore because I won't go anywhere. I've tried it a couple time.
I have had the sumitumo's for about 10,000 miles and they have 4/32" of tread left. Keep in mind I haven't ever done a "burn-out." Just the crappy traction when I punch it in second and the spinning in third. I don't even try to hit it in first anymore because I won't go anywhere. I've tried it a couple time.
...and our cars even look a alike
There is about 1-1.5" of tread on EACH side that doesn't touch the ground. Plus the way they are rounded off gives the illusion that they are smaller. So even though the cross section is probably a true 315 it looks smaller. The contact path though IS smaller. A lot. There's 3" of tread that doesn't even touch the ground. That's at 30psi to boot. It's the tread design. If you see one in person they are tapered off on the side. That 1-1.5" that doesn't touch probably averages 1/2 of the tread depth of the middle of the tire.
Here you can see the last block of tread. You can see how it tapers if you look closely. There's about a 1/2" of that block that touches the ground.
If I had a digital camera I'd break out the tape measure and show you the tread path.
Here you can see the last block of tread. You can see how it tapers if you look closely. There's about a 1/2" of that block that touches the ground.
If I had a digital camera I'd break out the tape measure and show you the tread path.
Last edited by 777; Feb 17, 2006 at 08:21 AM.
Originally Posted by 777
There is about 1-1.5" of tread on EACH side that doesn't touch the ground. Plus the way they are rounded off gives the illusion that they are smaller. So even though the cross section is probably a true 315 it looks smaller. The contact path though IS smaller. A lot. There's 3" of tread that doesn't even touch the ground. That's at 30psi to boot. It's the tread design. If you see one in person they are tapered off on the side. That 1-1.5" that doesn't touch probably averages 1/2 of the tread depth of the middle of the tire.
Here you can see the last block of tread. You can see how it tapers if you look closely. There's about a 1/2" of that block that touches the ground.
If I had a digital camera I'd break out the tape measure and show you the tread path.
Here you can see the last block of tread. You can see how it tapers if you look closely. There's about a 1/2" of that block that touches the ground.
If I had a digital camera I'd break out the tape measure and show you the tread path.
You can see the dirty areas from the shop floor and then the clean area.
