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Wheel stud removal/installation

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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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Default Wheel stud removal/installation

I got the high offset ZR1's and really need to run a spacer in back. With a 5/16" spacer I can only get two full turns on the lugs. Even without the spacer I'm getting maybe 8-10 and the threads are really loose. So I need new, longer studs and lug nuts. I'll be getting ARP 7708 2.5" length. Is it correct that when replacing the studs I will need to remove only the calipers and rotors, not the axles? Also, an alignment shop wants to charge me $75 a wheel to remove and press in the new studs, assuming the axles don't have to be removed. He claims it will take 1 hour per wheel. Does this sound right? Is there any way I can do this myself or am I going to need a press?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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correct, just remove the calipers and brakes. Take the 1 screw out holding the ABS sensor in, and use that hole to put the new stud in through the backside of the axle. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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Can they be hammered out and new ones hammered in, or do I need a press? Is $75 a realistic price?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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i think $75per wheel is WAY to much. If i remember correctly i just hammered them out and then to get them in i what c.06z28 did and used that hole in the back to get the other studs in, once the studs were close i just tightened them using by tightening a lug onto it. i'm not sure waht the best way is to do it, thats just how i've done it.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by co.6z28
correct, just remove the calipers and brakes. Take the 1 screw out holding the ABS sensor in, and use that hole to put the new stud in through the backside of the axle. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.
this was me posting from my friends computer

Make sure you heat them up nice and good with a torch when your putting them in, it makes it a lot easier.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
this was me posting from my friends computer

Make sure you heat them up nice and good with a torch when your putting them in, it makes it a lot easier.
stay off my comp focker
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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I havent done it to a F-Body, but have with other cars... You should be able to hammer them out and then when you get the new one on, I always put a few thick washers and then a normal lug-nut (not the closed end style). Then tighten well and remove the lug-nut and washers.

Make sure you heat them up nice and good with a torch when your putting them in, it makes it a lot easier.
Not sure about that, a torch would expand the metal making it bigger... usually the advice is to freeze the smaller object and heat up what its going into (in this case freeze the lugs, heat up the area surrounding the holes and really fast get the lug into its place).
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Old May 2, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Donohue96M6Z28
i think $75per wheel is WAY to much. If i remember correctly i just hammered them out and then to get them in i what c.06z28 did and used that hole in the back to get the other studs in, once the studs were close i just tightened them using by tightening a lug onto it. I'm not sure what the best way is to do it, thats just how I've done it.

I am having trouble removing a broken stud! I have beat the heck out of it with a sledge hammer, and it won't budge. It is the right-front wheel.

Can these be pressed out? Or so, with what apparatus?
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Old May 2, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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i hammered my broken stud out with a small 3 pound hammer then pulled the new one through with my impact wrench.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 05:36 AM
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True, this is how I got the other four out; but, how do you get one out if a large sledge hammer won't budge it?
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Old May 3, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Clif
True, this is how I got the other four out; but, how do you get one out if a large sledge hammer won't budge it?
I sprayed some PB blaster on mine when it wouldnt come out. Let that soak for a few minutes and then gave it a few more wacks and it came right out.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 02:54 PM
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Spray the stock studs with wd40, walk away for a 1/2 hour. Come back with the new studs sitting in a bucket of ice water, this will shrink them ever so slightly, which will make the task alot easier. Put a drop of oil on the splined area that will go in the axle, then get an impact gun, and use a regular flat lugnut and a bunch of washers to suck the new stud in. You may have to tap them past the reluctor wheel, I did, but it wasn't a big deal.

You may have to get a long breaker bar and a pipe to draw them in, they can be a real bitch..
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by co.6z28
correct, just remove the calipers and brakes. Take the 1 screw out holding the ABS sensor in, and use that hole to put the new stud in through the backside of the axle. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.
Kinda dredging up an old thread here, but I plan on doing this next weekend and just watched a video on youtube showing how to do this but they said it was the TCS sensor. Is there an ABS sensor there also that I can take off to install the new longer studs, since my car doesn't have TCS? Just want to make sure I understand it before I start taking things off.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Heres how i did mine.. VERY easy to pull the axles, and just hammer em out, pull the new ones in with a lug nut and some washers.

1. Pull wheels, calipers and rotors.
2. Remove diff cover. This isnt a bad idea if the gear oil hasnt been changed in a while anyway.
3. rotate diff until the paddle is visible, and remove it.. Remove the 1 bolt, pull the paddle out.
4. push both axles in, and grab the c-clips.. i used my fingers easily.
5. Slide out the axles, and do what you gotta do without any issue.

Then just reverse the process. I preferred to do it this way, because it was actually very easy, but also to take a look at the ring and pinion, to make sure everything was good. Also didnt hurt to clean it all out, and put clean fluid back in.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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I would do it that way, however I just changed the fluid 2 days ago when I changed the right rear axle seal, didn't have time to do the studs though.
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