JaSSon00

And test fit one of the rims (no tires yet) on the rear.....holy sheet, these are huge. I am almost certain im gonna have to cut the bump stop off and roll the inner fender well.

Im not so worried about the bump stops, that shouldnt take but a half hour or so, but the inner fender well worries me...

Whats the best method you guys have used that doesnt stress/damage the paint or quarter panel?

I dont see how any of you guys were able to "plug and play" without any modifications.

GET_SOM

get yourself a malet or a hammer... then do a lot of this --->

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

The paint?

Why would doing this....



damage your paint?

Best thing to do is to put the wheels on, drive around for a while, drive to the usual places you frequent, then take the wheels off and look where the undercoating got rubbed off. That's where you focus your banging with the hammer on. Get yourself a can of rubberized undercoating at a auto parts store, spray it on, put the wheels back on, and drive some more. If nothing gets rubbed off anymore, you're good to go.

Depending on what brand tires you use, you probably don't need to roll the fender lips. I have Yokohama AVS Sports on mine, and they are one of the widest tires for their size, and I stopped having tire slicing problems from the fender lips after I installed a adjustable panhard bar. I have a double adjustable rod ended panhard bar from UMI, and as mentioned above, haven't had any slicing problems since I installed that thing. Before the passenger side tire got some slicage done to it when hitting a dip in the road a little too fast, or making a turn at too steep of an angle.

Good luck...and enjoy!

Manny

JaSSon00

By stressing the paint i mean by rolling the fender lip, not banging the inner fender well.

It just seems like rolling that lip will "pull" the paint, which would create possibilities of cracks/rust/etc down the road.

I have a single (i think) adjustable hotchkis panhard rod....maybe it will be enough to save from having to mess with the fender lip...

Did the tire rubbing the inner undercoating during the initial "test drives to see where it was rubbing" yield any slicing or damage to the inside side wall of the tire or inner rim lip?

Thanks for your post, very helpful.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Oh sorry, misread that about the fender lip. Yeah, if you wanna roll that thing, it should be done with a heat gun to make the paint more flexible. There's a guy on the forum here that rents out a fender roller.

In my case, the wheels weren't damaged at all from the "test drive", the tires do all the rubbing against the inner fender.

The only difference between a single adjustable and double adjustable panhard bar is convenience. You can adjust it while completely mounted on the car with the double adjustable one, that's all. So as long as you get your rear end centered perfectly, you should be fine.

What brand tires are you running?

Oh...and no...there was no damage to the sidewall of the tire. I had these Yokos on for over 3 years now and never had a problem. You should see how sliced up the passenger rear is from hitting the fender lip BEFORE the rear end was centered with the panhard bar...kinda makes you cringe, especially since each tire cost $349.00!!

Oh...and here are some before and after pic of cutting the bumpstops. You actually unbolt the actual bumpstop and trim down the tab it was bolted to.

In the first picture, the car is on the ground, suspension is compressed. That grey thing between the metal mounting tab and the actual bumpstop is a spacer that came with my 10 spoke SS wheels.



In this picture, the car is on a conventional lift, the suspension is at full droop. Notice how we left the mounting holes in tact, the tire barely clears the remnants of the mounting tab.




Your welcome

JaSSon00

The last pic is of the 11"er's with the Yokos? If so, thats great...i was expecting to have to cut/grind off the enitre bump stop.

Im going to be running 315 BFG KD's. From what i read, theyre comparable (width wise) to your Yokos.

So you didnt even have to mess with the inner fender lip AT ALL, by way of centering the rear end with the pan hard?

Do you have a link to what the "inner fender roller tool" looks like and how it works?

Excellent photos, btw.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

No....those pics where taken when the Dunlop SP8000s were on the car, they came with the wheels. After I replaced them with the Yokos, I had to pound the fender well again because the Yokos are just that much wider. And yes...I did NOT touch the fender lips.

I'll have to search for the fender rolling tool, but I think it was in the appearance section.

I am gonna go with the BFG KD as well when the Yokos finally give up the ghost...they are pretty damn close to it.