bjw2654

iTrader: (4)

I know most people roll the fender lip when fitting the 315's, but has anyone tried grinding the lip to keep the tire from rubbing?

I only need to remove about 1/8 - 1/4 inch from the very top (i've marked the fender with my GS-D3's already). I think that if I do this slow and use a wet towel to keep the lip cool it would work.

Any thoughts?

coldkillinTA

iTrader: (6)

i would guess so if you have a steady hand.

01 Red WS6

iTrader: (4)

I don't think I would want to try it. I think it might be more trouble and who knows what the finished product will end up looking like

mcmillion

iTrader: (5)

+1 Rolling seems easier

wabmorgan

+2 Roll

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

The biggest problem with grinding & cutting is the metal is now been exposed . . .

Many cars today do not have rust due to the protective, layers applied to the metal. Cutting the metal will remove this protection, and increase the risk of rust.

Just my 2 cents.

LineLocked&Loaded

iTrader: (1)

if you roll the lip, there is a very good chance of creating buckles on your quarter panels...I've seen it happen...I haven't seen anyone do it without bodyworking after...but it can be done

ChevyWeatherman

iTrader: (2)

Thats why I'm considering grinding and then brushing some primer on by hand to the area that I grinded. Maybe even tape it off and spray a nice coat on there.

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

an old friend of mine had trouble fitting 315s on his mustang ...he ended up cutting 1/2 slots every 2-3 inches and bending the metal up against the fender. causing dents in the quarter right above the fenderwell...

SuperZ

iTrader: (2)

damn thats that idea I kinda had for mine??

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

Do more than just primer . . . Primer is porus and HOLDS water, and will rust the metal even faster . . .

SuperZ

iTrader: (2)

what would work?some sort of tuff paint?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Not disputing that this could happen, but I have rolled my share of fenders and never had a quarter panel "buckle". Cracked paint? Sure, but nothing requiring body work. It would be hard for me to imagine body damage not being the result of excessive force or lack of patience when rolling. I have always found that going slowly and with care will give good results.

Regarding the original question - I would only grind when absolutely necessary and roll otherwise. I say this for three reasons:

1) Grinding exposes the bare metal, which will require touch up at a minimum.

2) Grinding removes some of the reinforcement over the wheelwell arches, which may arguably reduce strength of the 1/4 panel.

3) Grinding creates sharp edges that can easily cut a tire if you do contact the fender well. Rolling the fenders provides a smooth edge that generally won't damage the tire if for some reason you do make contact.

99zman

iTrader: (23)

i grinded my mustang fender lips to fit my slicks on there with out a problem, if fenders are rolled inproperly it looks like ***.

rocket22

iTrader: (2)

Well have had acouple idea's on this,
1.grind the lip in 1/2 then roll in too differnet sections to keep from wrinlking the 1/4
2.take a dremel and gring the lip off just before the weld line,this would leave the strengh in the 1/4 still

My 295/35's rub so I have to do this just not sure on the plan yet.

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

You can only grind/remove approx. 1/4" of the lip without removing the factory spot welds and sepperating the wheel house from the outer quarter skin. I have seen some that could go about 3/8" but it depends on the car, each one is slightly different. There is nothing wrong with this if done correctly and the erea is cleaned and the proper sealer ect. applied to the bare metal. Cutting slits is a horrible idea, every one of the slits you cut is now a stress riser and will be a major rust enviter. The quarter panel is a part of the structural make up of the rear of a fourth gen. Those little demples we get in above the wheel well opening and at the corner of the hatch are there because of stress. There is a weak section of the frame where it meets the cabin erea of our cars and FRCs do nothing to help the rear of the car.
Rolling the lip is the only way to get max clearance for a huge set of wheels/tires. If done correctly taking your time and allowing the lip to roll/stretch while working back and fourth with minimal effort/force you will not cause any distorion of the outer panel. Some can be rolled flatter than others due to the spacing between the outer wheel house and the outer skin being slightly different on every car. Anytime you roll the lip flat for max clearance you going to get cracking/flaking of the paint, use a sharp edge to scribe a line to act as a breaking point just inside the wheel opening lip to keep the paint from peeling onto the outer panel.

SS LS1