1. Stock 16x8 Z28 wheel with Drag Radials.

2. Current Chrome ZO6 18x9.5 wheel with Drag Radials.

3. OEM ZO6 18x10.5 wheel with Drag Radials.

4. 15x8 ProStars with Drag Radials.

This will be a track only rear setup. Keep in mind I will be running Chrome ZO6 18x9.5 wheels up front.

 

M6 or A4?

 

M6.

 

If you still have the stock rear....too much traction may be a bad thing. I run 17" nittos and have cut some low 1.7's....sure a 15" drag radial or slick would hook harder, but until i have a 12 bolt....ill sacrifice a few tenths to race another day I say 18" drag radials if on ten bolt.....prostars and drag radials if other

 

None. 15x8's are entirely too small and not well suited for the width tires you can easily run on your car. The rest are too heavy and provide little traction advantage for the money you'd spend.

For being a "track only" setup, you should consider going all out and spending the funds on a sticky tire and very light setup. None that you have listed would come to mind.

 

I really wanted some Bogarts but wanted to use the extra cash on some mods . I might just have to get them.

 

I mention to potential clients quite often...our drag wheels are an easy solid .1-.2 second...which is less stressful to an engine that is fed nitrous to gain .1-.2 seconds.

They also are the most noticeable modification on a car and can make the cars appearance (if appearance is important).

You can a few dollars by considering economy wheels, BUT you'll also be leaving a minimum 50lbs of converted static weight on the car by using similar sized wheels as what I've set up for you guys. With economy wheels...you'll also have wheels that you need to grind calipers, run spacers etc...In the end, have a wheel that does not have the appearance and quality workmanship as a billet wheel that is polished to a high-luster.

Occasionally I'll see a prostar/draglite or centerline setup that actually looks pretty good in a picture that's posted on here....BUT when you look in person, especially if wheels are compared in a side-by-side comparison...it is evident the quality differences between economy drag wheels and our wheels. I don’t want anyone thinking I’m putting their economy weld/centerline wheels down…if they compared them to welds high-end wheels i.e. alumastar 2’s the economy prostar/draglite centerline setups don’t hold a candle to them.

Our wheels are high-end light, custom fit wheels that are made for each application, fit without worries and are the lightest direct fit drag wheel (and road race wheels) on the market today.

I firmly believe this is one area not to skimp on.

 

Pretty sure there are a lot of folks that have had great sucess using weld wheels. Granted, if money wasn't an option then bogarts would be the way to go for you rims. However, if money is something you're considering then I'd go w/ a 15x10 wheel like 1000's of people on this site have. Just my .02

 

Needs clarification. Weld manufactures (well used to until they filed bankcrupt...not sure where they are at right now) high-end wheels which are ~1600.00/set and economy stamped wheels for ~800.00/set. I'm assuming your referring to welds economy wheels.

No arguements here...our target market is not the k-mart shopper (nor is welds high-end wheels). Our market of folks are the ones who want a wheel that performs the best and manufactured to high-standards and likes their car fitted with billet high-end wheels made FOR their car.

You get what you pay for.

As outlined above, the benefits our Bogart wheels outweigh the troubles with fitment. Take our rears...built for an LS1...they ~30% lighter then a set of prostars setup for the LS1! Centerlines generally are the heaviest wheels on the market...nor do they make a wheel wide enough with appropriate backspace for the F-body and the size tires that can easily be run.

Seeing folks wanting to save a few hundred dollars by purchasing heavy economy wheels...leaving ~50lbs of converted static weight on the car THEN go out and purchase a 600.00 k-member to save 30lbs doesn't make sense to me. I'm pointing these things out to some to show that they overlook important areas. Rotational weight and unsprung weight is VERY important and should not be neglected or overlooked if performance is relavant. Lower rotational weight means BETTER braking, better 60ft times, faster reacting suspension effecting wheel hop etc etc!!

While our wheels are not for everyone...I'd like to see everyone use our Bogarts...this not a reality though.

There IS a reason though why we get so many folks who either

A) purchase economy wheels then wish they had ours especially from fitment difficulties.
B) see the wheels in person from another car and realize how much of a difference they are in comparison to economy wheels.
C) grind calipers so much, disregarding safety concerns...

...I have many folks who switch to our wheels...not the other way around! Do it once, do it right and spend less in the end.

..my feeling is why skimp on such a noticable modification! For the few dollars difference, you get a noticably better built wheel that is of show quality.

Skimp in an area that is not as noticable.

 

If you want to save some $$$ just get some 16" abs wheels and some et streets/radials. i cut low 1.7 60ft all day with em along with some prostars up front, granted my car just had LT's, converter, and stock suspension. never had any problems bolting on any drag wheel without grinding brakes on my car since i have Aerospace brakes all the way around.

If you got $$$ and want to do it the right way and cut the best possible 60ft's you can with the 6-speed a little safer, take SJM's(Steve) advice and get some Bogarts. I want a set for my car but the holidays cleaned out my wallet so the bogarts will have to wait till the summer. I've seen some Bogarts on a black SS and a SOM WS6 around town and i was like .

 

Drag brakes are a very good investment as well... We setup our customers with Strange drag brakes...they drop ~50lbs of weight from the front and ~20lbs from the rear! We do offer special non-public pricing for Strange products for our Bogart customers.

Street-demon, let me know when you need help with the wheels...since you have drag brakes, your have MUCH more choices in our drag setups AND your wheels will be lighter AND less expensive since we do not need much of the custom work done for the LS1 brake caliper setups.

 

Steve is there any way you can email me a seperate price on some front/rear D10's? I want the whole set but i might have to get them seperately(fronts then rear)so i can still have food on the table for the month. here's my email i.com97@yahoo.com

What other choices of wheel do i have since i have drag brakes, or is it the same thing as having the stock LT1 brake setup?

 

Sure, I'd be happy to help you. So that I setup the wheels correctly, please use my link listed below. It will force you to fill out a few things so that I know how I"m building them for your setup. This simplifies the process a bit.

 

Steve, I was no way trying to bash your product. I was simply stating that a vast number of people have used other "low end" wheels and had success with them. To say they haven't is ludacris. Eveyone knows you make/develop a great product, however with that being said you need to look at this sites audience. A lot of the folks on this site are interested in building on a small budget. That's why companies such as Fuddle, Pacesetter, and others have been so successfull on here. They make a product that does what people want, and people are willing to sacrifice higher quality for a cheaper price. Just notice how many questions are asked "what's the best bang for the buck mod..." on this site. Do these other products work? Absolutely. Are they as well put together as yours? Probably not.

 

zspot. I didn't think you were bashing us at all. I see your response quite often, I’m not offended or angry, I would hope you feel the same.

I want to show that realistically, our products are not that much difference in price, most importantly worth the difference. It is less than the difference of a K-member or other modifications may not have as great of an impact on the cars performance.

Many folks overlook benefits of unsprung/rotational weight. Many may not understand why there are differences between two types of wheels. I’ve indicated for example how weld manufactures high-end wheels and low-end wheels…there are large differences in quality and performance gains between the two.

There is much misinformation on the internet. Many folks still to this day consider 8” wheels for 1993-2002 F-bodies?? They are too small for the average tire you guys use, they have poor backspace choices. If I built an 8” wheel for an F-body 5.5” would not be what I’d use. That places the wheel out of center in the wheel-well and looks funny from the back of the car. Many folks still use 165 radials when they are far from safe for the F-body and a poor choice for a skinny wheel. Many do not even know when they use a prostar/draglite combo (especially when they run spacers) VERY long studs, 2.5” studs are NOT appropriate for the car. You need longer. When you 3” (or the newer ~3.25”)studs on the car, your ever-day wheels look terrible since these super long studs stick way out of the wheel.

In the end, choosing our wheels have many benefits that some may be overlooking…thus why I comment regarding our products and differences. It is not to say we have the best thing next to apple pie…it is to show why to consider our products over others.