need a tire for drag racing only
06-01-2007, 02:11 AM
#21
11 Second Club
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
Go with a 26" MT or Hoosier slick and a equivalant front runner(skinny). rears are ~$150-$160 and the fronts should be cheaper. Summitt and Jegs have anything you can possibly think of for this purpose.
06-01-2007, 02:11 PM
#22
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Stangkilr
Yup, 26's with your setup would be perfect.
06-01-2007, 09:49 PM
#24
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
They don't know what they're talking about. A slick will outperform any drag radial on the track.
06-02-2007, 12:01 AM
#25
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
serious? what kind of track times do you have?
Customer Service & Tech
Phone (330) 928 - 9092 Ext. 2
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
these tires will be for my drag racing tires only!
I need a tire that will be strictly for drag racing.
They will be a separate set or rims and separate tires that will be used at the dragstrip only.
I need a tire that will be strictly for drag racing.
They will be a separate set or rims and separate tires that will be used at the dragstrip only.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech-34/
06-02-2007, 12:13 AM
#26
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
My track times don't matter. Call mickey thompson and ask them what will perform better on a drag strip, a radial tire or a bias ply slick. I guarantee you they will answer that their ET drag will out perform their ET street radial.
Customer Service & Tech
Phone (330) 928 - 9092 Ext. 2
HINT HINT: Try the drag racing tech section.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=34
Customer Service & Tech
Phone (330) 928 - 9092 Ext. 2
HINT HINT: Try the drag racing tech section.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=34
not slicks vs ET street radials..
Bias ply slick vs bias ply St street?
Im thinkin slick.
06-02-2007, 12:28 AM
#27
We can help you with your wheels.
My suggestion is if you are not certain what to choose, the best option is to purchase different tires each time you need new ones...this way you can calculate through trial and error which setup you prefer. Different tracks, different users...too many variable to state one tire is better then another. You already have an opinion of one style tire...there are only a few left.
Regarding wear, none will last long. Look at it this way, you're probably spending more on gas...tires are consumables as well. If you choose tires that last long, they probably won't have the traction.
My suggestion is if you are not certain what to choose, the best option is to purchase different tires each time you need new ones...this way you can calculate through trial and error which setup you prefer. Different tracks, different users...too many variable to state one tire is better then another. You already have an opinion of one style tire...there are only a few left.
Regarding wear, none will last long. Look at it this way, you're probably spending more on gas...tires are consumables as well. If you choose tires that last long, they probably won't have the traction.
06-02-2007, 01:00 AM
#28
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
yes. But I was referring to slicks vs ET streets
not slicks vs ET street radials..
Bias ply slick vs bias ply St street?
Im thinkin slick.
not slicks vs ET street radials..
Bias ply slick vs bias ply St street?
Im thinkin slick.
06-02-2007, 04:07 AM
#29
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, so tell me this.
Will the stickier the tire get, the less it will last? or do they make slicks that can last longer? why not? they can add more layers of slick to last longer? no?
Also All Im saying is my M/Ts were at the limit after 23 passes. which had decent burnouts, but nothing too excessive. So I just want a tire that can perform as good, hopefully better, but last longer.
this doesnt exist?
Will the stickier the tire get, the less it will last? or do they make slicks that can last longer? why not? they can add more layers of slick to last longer? no?
Also All Im saying is my M/Ts were at the limit after 23 passes. which had decent burnouts, but nothing too excessive. So I just want a tire that can perform as good, hopefully better, but last longer.
this doesnt exist?
06-02-2007, 11:36 PM
#30
I don't think you'll find a tire that will fit your requirements (if longevity is your main objective).
Try different tires, they really aren't too expensive.
For the record, just because a tire is DOT approved, does not mean it is ok to use on the street for normal street use. This goes for any drag wheel which states this also. They (all drag wheels and ET streets included) are not for highway use.
Try different tires, they really aren't too expensive.
For the record, just because a tire is DOT approved, does not mean it is ok to use on the street for normal street use. This goes for any drag wheel which states this also. They (all drag wheels and ET streets included) are not for highway use.
06-07-2007, 03:27 PM
#32
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
I don't think you'll find a tire that will fit your requirements (if longevity is your main objective).
Try different tires, they really aren't too expensive.
For the record, just because a tire is DOT approved, does not mean it is ok to use on the street for normal street use. This goes for any drag wheel which states this also. They (all drag wheels and ET streets included) are not for highway use.
Try different tires, they really aren't too expensive.
For the record, just because a tire is DOT approved, does not mean it is ok to use on the street for normal street use. This goes for any drag wheel which states this also. They (all drag wheels and ET streets included) are not for highway use.
edit: spelling
06-07-2007, 03:28 PM
#33
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
If you did 23 passes in one day no wonder your tires died. They will store up heat and after the first pass all you need to do is clean them off. If you did a burnout each time, you were just slinging rubber.
Just my opinion.
Just my opinion.
06-08-2007, 11:09 AM
#35
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Okay so are 15" american eagle rims and 26" Hoosier slicks good for a M6 with aluminum flywhel to drag race? also how wide should the slicks be? I also have 3.73s 12 bolt moser and all boltons ( no head n cam yet, but in near future) 2002 Z28
edit: spelling
edit: spelling
As far as slicks that last longer, it would defeat the purpose of racing tires. If you go with a harder compound, traction will suffer. If you wanted "more" rubber, the weight would go up and that would hurt times. Slicks, drag radials, ET streets are not made to last a long time, they are made to stick.In order to stick they must have a soft compound, by default that increases treadwear.
Have to pay to play!!
Good luck!!
06-10-2007, 01:55 AM
#36
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
If you have the $$$. the best thing to do would be to call Steve at SJM and get a set of Bogarts. Then get the 26x11.5 MT drags and whatever front runner they (MT) make. You will drop a huge amount of unsprung weight and your times will improve. If you don't have the $$ for the Bogarts, the next choice would be Weld Prostars/Draglites. You will have to do some grinding, but that is the facts.
As far as slicks that last longer, it would defeat the purpose of racing tires. If you go with a harder compound, traction will suffer. If you wanted "more" rubber, the weight would go up and that would hurt times. Slicks, drag radials, ET streets are not made to last a long time, they are made to stick.In order to stick they must have a soft compound, by default that increases treadwear.
Have to pay to play!! Good luck!!
As far as slicks that last longer, it would defeat the purpose of racing tires. If you go with a harder compound, traction will suffer. If you wanted "more" rubber, the weight would go up and that would hurt times. Slicks, drag radials, ET streets are not made to last a long time, they are made to stick.In order to stick they must have a soft compound, by default that increases treadwear.
Have to pay to play!!
Good luck!!Im just wondering how 23 passes killed a harder compound tire, than my friend with well over 70+ passes.
equal burnouts.
Just wondering..
Now, that beside the point, how many passes do slicks last you guys?
06-10-2007, 01:58 AM
#37
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im buying rims from my friend, because he owns a tire shop and can get me a good deal. are bogarts my only choice for quality?
also my friends slicks (eagle alloy, american eagle, or some brand like that) were aluminum and pretty light and he had hoosier slicks.
for 15" rims, how wide should I get and Ill be going with a 26" tire.
also my friends slicks (eagle alloy, american eagle, or some brand like that) were aluminum and pretty light and he had hoosier slicks.
for 15" rims, how wide should I get and Ill be going with a 26" tire.
06-11-2007, 04:51 PM
#39
I'm unfamiliar with the weights of the wheels you're insterested in...we are not the only manufacture that makes high-end quality wheels. Welds high-end wheels are also very nice. Most of the other companies do not build wheels to fit the application though...so you're going to get a wheel that may be considered 'one size fits most' where "most" don't actually fit.
Ours are VERY light. A typical 15x10 LS1 Bogart rear wheel for example will be ~10-11lbs. A weld similar sized wheel will end up being 15-16lbs especially if you are adding spacers...
I believe most of the wheels your talking about are actually pretty heavy. I wouldn't be surprized if they are close to the stock weight...I don't know for certain as there are so many different brands within those wheels. If you're unsure, as long as your friend takes them back if you don't like them, then no harm no foul...especially if he's getting you a good deal on them.
You can do a search...there's quite a bit of discussion on different setups.
Good luck.
Ours are VERY light. A typical 15x10 LS1 Bogart rear wheel for example will be ~10-11lbs. A weld similar sized wheel will end up being 15-16lbs especially if you are adding spacers...
I believe most of the wheels your talking about are actually pretty heavy. I wouldn't be surprized if they are close to the stock weight...I don't know for certain as there are so many different brands within those wheels. If you're unsure, as long as your friend takes them back if you don't like them, then no harm no foul...especially if he's getting you a good deal on them.
You can do a search...there's quite a bit of discussion on different setups.
Good luck.
06-11-2007, 05:33 PM
#40
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
I'm unfamiliar with the weights of the wheels you're insterested in...we are not the only manufacture that makes high-end quality wheels. Welds high-end wheels are also very nice. Most of the other companies do not build wheels to fit the application though...so you're going to get a wheel that may be considered 'one size fits most' where "most" don't actually fit.
Ours are VERY light. A typical 15x10 LS1 Bogart rear wheel for example will be ~10-11lbs. A weld similar sized wheel will end up being 15-16lbs especially if you are adding spacers...
I believe most of the wheels your talking about are actually pretty heavy. I wouldn't be surprized if they are close to the stock weight...I don't know for certain as there are so many different brands within those wheels. If you're unsure, as long as your friend takes them back if you don't like them, then no harm no foul...especially if he's getting you a good deal on them.
You can do a search...there's quite a bit of discussion on different setups.
Good luck.
Ours are VERY light. A typical 15x10 LS1 Bogart rear wheel for example will be ~10-11lbs. A weld similar sized wheel will end up being 15-16lbs especially if you are adding spacers...
I believe most of the wheels your talking about are actually pretty heavy. I wouldn't be surprized if they are close to the stock weight...I don't know for certain as there are so many different brands within those wheels. If you're unsure, as long as your friend takes them back if you don't like them, then no harm no foul...especially if he's getting you a good deal on them.
You can do a search...there's quite a bit of discussion on different setups.
Good luck.
how much are rear bogarts for a F body. and should I run LS1 15" X 10 and 26" slick? would that be good for low 300 WHP? and how about low 400 WHP both with 3.73s
Thanks, I just wanna know more info.
I wanna get a good 60' way better than 1.78, which was my best with M/Ts