irbs

iTrader: (7)

I agree. Id say we are lucky to have sponsors explaining about their products.

Shock Hawk

Dumb idea... but how about getting smaller brakes? I know that it'll effect your stopping distance, but you could be running 14"s. Or, you could just shave the stock calipers a tad bit if you want to be safe. I haven't looked to see how possible that is, just don't take off much, or else you'll lose it during hard breaking.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

Only brakes I know of you can run with Welds on the rears are Strange but you lose the E-brake with em, not too cool for manuals imo.

KW4life06

iTrader: (12)

that sucks. i like c5 brake kits but ill def b gettin prostars. i dont need the most efficient weight combo ever, and im not made of gold. can always appreciate a sponsor showing he does more than just advertise on the side of the page

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for your support guys. For the folks who think I was downgrading or stating everything else is sub-par to our Bogart wheels, I merely stated our benefits which answered the question and gave a solution.

KW4life, the C5 brakes are very nice and offer a good solution for stopping in comparison to the stock brakes (which I feel work very well). The issue with C5 brake setups is they will be too large to fit prostars on the car. Something I see/hear many times are folks want to stop better with drag wheels using these types of setups...main problem is the brakes aren't what hampers stopping, it is the small tire contact patch of the front runner. Unfortunately, for the most part, folks with alternative better stopping brakes will just skid more and hit ABS more often.

We do have a C5 wheel specific setup for Corvettes fwiw. They are a 17x5 and 16x10 combo.

Louie83

iTrader: (3)

This is why I will be going with Bogarts. I have no problem saving and waiting to do it right the first time.

Now, I just need to get money saved again since I just got my H/C nonsense.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Is it possible to install LT1 rear brakes and have enough clearance to use the Weld or Centerline without grinding the calipers?

GeArBaNgEr56

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to grind for centerlines.

KW4life06

iTrader: (12)

u dont have to grind 4 DONKS either lol.
ya its a compromise ill just have to take 4 the wheels. ill just get some good pads and eat up my rotors, they r cheap neways
thanks 4 the input steve

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I have draglites with 26x11.5 MT ET Streets, plenty wide enough in my opinion. Of course I had to grind my calipers to get them to fit, but I didn't have the extra cash to get the Bogarts that I really wanted. My wheels are flush with the fenders and do not stick out.

I'd like to read about these horror stories if anyone has a link.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

I asked him earlier in the thread, no response yet. Funny, I've been on this board 3 years longer than him but don't recall any of these "horror stories".

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I'm really not seeing how you could grind so much off that it breaks. There had to be another factor in the equation

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I do know a member on here totalled his F-body when his calipers cracked and put his car into an uncontrollable situation. I do not know his name, but it was during a discussion we had on this board probably 6-12 months ago.

There is quite a bit that is necessary to grind off the calipers. Each person many times need to grind different amounts. For the customers who use aftermarket rotors or aftermarket pads, almost always, it is even worse of a grinding issue. Even OEM is quite a bit. Too much for my comfort level...but obviously not for others.

As one of the posters mentioned, he ruined his by going to far. Many times, if you see folks post pictures, they've gone into the caliper pins.

Some folks seem to feel that I despise other manufactures wheels, but that is completly far from the truth. Weld manufactures very good high-end wheels which are a direct comparison to our products (those welds also cost 1600.00 for a set). The economy wheels are not a comparison at all which don't hold a candle to our wheels nor welds high-ended wheels.

I do suggest that if someone is on a budget, you'll have to take the good with the bad. My personal suggestion for ECONOMY wheel is the prostar/draglite combo 15x10" which are best suited for an F-body due to backspace and weight considerations.

For the others who want the best, saving ~50lbs of converted static weight (for a set, ours are ~30% lighter) and having a show-quality wheel by using our Bogart LS1 designed wheels over a prostar/draglite combo is in my opinion the smartest move considering benefits of fitment etc etc.

I do understand that our wheels may not be in everyones budget. It's a shame when some folks think that I'm just trying to "push" our products with no backup or explaination of why our products are superior. Weld manufactures 1600.00 wheels also for a reason...they are nothing like their economy weld prostars.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

You have every right to push your product, you are a sponsor here. You also have a f body specific wheel unlike the other manufacturers that does not require modification.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

The guy who had a front grinded caliper fail? https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=failure Only one I could find.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

FWIW... I just bought a full set of Weld ProStars. 15x10 7.5BS and 15x3.5's. I also ordered a set of 325/50 MT DR's and 26x4.5 MT Front Runners. All in all I spent about $1500 after I got the lug nuts and spacers and such.

I am not a fan of grinding the calipers. I thought about getting Bogarts. having a wheel/tire combo fit with out the hassle of grinding would have been worth it. They offer a superior product. However, I seen several times, the Bogart and High end Welds bend on the street. All be it a bad situation that could have been avoided it still happened.

Getting to my point. Bogarts are a amazing wheel for a drag car. I chose the Weld ProStars for my car becuae it see's the street alot. It is a heavier wheel. I will grind my stock calipers and run them until I have the $$$ to buy a drag specific front/rear brake setup. *Yes that turns into another probelm on the street, I know*

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

That person that had the calipers fail, that was not the person that I referred to, so that is another person. This doesn't mean that no one should use it, you do have to be careful and take precautions knowing full aware that they are taking risks.

Wickedred, thanks for your positive comments. I'm glad to see you're happy with your setup thus far. When/if you're ever ready for our wheels, let me know, I would be happy to assist you.

An FYI, many folks think welds won't break...and they are safer to use then our billet series wheels....welds should not be used on the street , so be careful. Weld wheels are stamped "for drag use only" in bold letters. Another misconception is the fact that even though their rears are DOT legal, this does not mean it is a street approved daily wheel. They are not meant for daily driving or highway use.

Drag wheels are for drag racing:-). I've seen many of welds (prostars/draglites) setups fail. Tony, the board owner had both his fronts crack. He's now using our wheels on his car.

I've also heard many folks state that they've seen many of our wheels break. I keep track of failures, and I still can count on my fingers how many that we've seen damaged in going on 10 years of history since conception of these for the F-body. We do repair wheels at minimal cost as a service to our customers...even if it is down to if you curbed our wheels for example. There may be ones that folks don't turn in or call us, but that is probably a low number as most would probably call to either a) complain or b) want to see if we can repair it for them. These services ensures their investment doesn't turn into a large expensive paperweight.

All in all, some good discussions and answered questions from you guys. I'm sure the poster will be happy you guys have chimed in. Hopefully these discussions are positive to the author and they provide him with some answered questions.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

It was never determined in the thread I linked that having his calipers grinded was the cause of the failure.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I didn't read the whole post, only a few sentences. If his calipers were in half, they failed. which is probably what locked his wheel up and prevented the wheel from turning.

This is also like our wheels...which came first the chicken or the egg when it comes to damage. I STILL see folks using metric or VW radial front runners which should NOT be used on a drag wheel. Most are meant for 5-6" wheels and are stuffed on a small 3.5" wheel creating more stress on the shells. To boot, being a radial makes it a very stiff tire futher creating issues with a drag skinny wheel. Front wheels take quite a great deal of stress. Those metric tires are generally not load rated and certainly not speed rated for the F-body.

I know we had a non-participating vendor pushing these tires on our GTO designs of which we had many of those fail. I attribute the failure from incorrect tire selection. The VERY limited number of F-body cars that I've seen damaged...some were using those damn tires too! Sometimes when you read posts regarding something breaking (all manufactures), you never really get the true story or what actually caused it. I will tell you this, IF you see any of our Bogart customers using a VW or metric radial and stuffing it onto a small skinny wheel...they certainly never got a recommendation from myself or any of our participating vendors authorized for resale.

Sometimes you never really hear/see the "true" story or what a person did with a manufactures product. Many times you see someone say "man, this/that part failed...I can't believe it"

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

I have an LT1 rear in my car, brakes and all...had to grind some to fit the 15x10 weld prostars, but not near as much as the LS1 brakes have to be clearanced for the 10" wide prostar.