studs removal/install
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11 Second Club
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From: Avondale, AZ
studs removal/install So how bad is it swapping out wheel studs on these cars. To pass tech with greg welds i'm going to have to swap out studs. The shank lugs are 2.25" long hex portion of the lug is around the 1.75 mark. I'm planning on just running arp 2.5" studs. Think this should come to the end maybe pass through the end. They just have to go to the 2" mark tech by nhra rules. I really dont want to have 3" + studs on this car. Anyways fronts i imagine just take off the brakes and hammer them through...might have to rotate to clear somethings correct? How about rears same thing or have to disconnect axles, abs rings etc? I know i had to do that on my old stang thats why i'm asking beforehand. If there are any how to posts or sites on this also please post
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 501
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From: Covington, Georgia
Not hard at all, I put one the the stocker lug nuts on the stud and hit it a few times with the 5lbs and it popped right out. Then to install the new studs I put them in place then ran a lugnut down on it with the impact wrench. Quite simple.
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: May 2005
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From: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
rears are easy too! Just pull out your ABS sensor and use that hole. I use a few thick washes and some greese and a old lug nut to pull the trough with a impact. You wont even have to take you brakes off of the front.
On The Tree
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IIRC, the ABS sensor thing only works on the 4 channel cars. Either way, the axles are not hard to pull.
Pull wheels and brakes
Drain/remove cover
Remove bolt/paddle
Push axles in, grap the c clips
pull out the axles, replace the studs, and reverse the process.
Pull wheels and brakes
Drain/remove cover
Remove bolt/paddle
Push axles in, grap the c clips
pull out the axles, replace the studs, and reverse the process.
