New guy, needs suggestions.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
New guy, needs suggestions. Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to the stereo/sound system game. I have a 2000 WS6 with the monsoon sound system that I just bought a week ago. The speakers are blown and I want to upgrade the system but keep the head unit for the all stock appearance. I have a plan A and a plan B. Plan A will cost $2,000 in equipment. Plan B would cost probably a little less than half.
Plan A:
Front Door: JL Audio C5-650
Rear Seat: JL Audio TR-650 CXI
Stealthbox: JL Audio
Amp: JL Audio V2 500/1v2
Sound Processor: JL CL441dsp CleanSweep
Plan B:
Front Door: Same as "A"
Rear Seat: JL Audio6w3v3-4 (x2)
Stealthbox: None
Amp: Same as "A"
Sound Processor: Same as "A"
Is plan "A" overkill? Or would plan "B" be a sufficient enough improvement over stock? I appreciate any comments. Thanks, Bret
Plan A:
Front Door: JL Audio C5-650
Rear Seat: JL Audio TR-650 CXI
Stealthbox: JL Audio
Amp: JL Audio V2 500/1v2
Sound Processor: JL CL441dsp CleanSweep
Plan B:
Front Door: Same as "A"
Rear Seat: JL Audio6w3v3-4 (x2)
Stealthbox: None
Amp: Same as "A"
Sound Processor: Same as "A"
Is plan "A" overkill? Or would plan "B" be a sufficient enough improvement over stock? I appreciate any comments. Thanks, Bret
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to the stereo/sound system game. I have a 2000 WS6 with the monsoon sound system that I just bought a week ago. The speakers are blown and I want to upgrade the system but keep the head unit for the all stock appearance. I have a plan A and a plan B. Plan A will cost $2,000 in equipment. Plan B would cost probably a little less than half.
Plan A:
Front Door: JL Audio C5-650
Rear Seat: JL Audio TR-650 CXI
Stealthbox: JL Audio
Amp: JL Audio V2 500/1v2
Sound Processor: JL CL441dsp CleanSweep
Plan B:
Front Door: Same as "A"
Rear Seat: JL Audio6w3v3-4 (x2)
Stealthbox: None
Amp: Same as "A"
Sound Processor: Same as "A"
Is plan "A" overkill? Or would plan "B" be a sufficient enough improvement over stock? I appreciate any comments. Thanks, Bret
Plan A:
Front Door: JL Audio C5-650
Rear Seat: JL Audio TR-650 CXI
Stealthbox: JL Audio
Amp: JL Audio V2 500/1v2
Sound Processor: JL CL441dsp CleanSweep
Plan B:
Front Door: Same as "A"
Rear Seat: JL Audio6w3v3-4 (x2)
Stealthbox: None
Amp: Same as "A"
Sound Processor: Same as "A"
Is plan "A" overkill? Or would plan "B" be a sufficient enough improvement over stock? I appreciate any comments. Thanks, Bret
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 1
Ok IMO ditch the cleansweep its not needed, i would consider an aftermarket radio though.
JL is overpriced if you ask me, you could do a kee audio cubby box and 10" sub for less then a stealthbox and get the same performance
JL is overpriced if you ask me, you could do a kee audio cubby box and 10" sub for less then a stealthbox and get the same performance
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
I wanted to keep the stock look with the factory head unit. Thats why I was thinking about getting the cleansweep. Thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The CleanSweep does equalization and signal balance but (despite the name) it doesn't clean up distortion. And believe me, the factory head unit is a distortion machine. You'll be spending a lot of money to send a distorted signal through a nice amp and speakers. I agree with pentavolvo, you really need to consider a different head unit if you want good sound. Otherwise, you might as well spend a lot less money to just upgrade the speakers and leave them connected to the factory amp.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
After all the suggestions I think I am going to just replace the speakers with the JBL Grand Touring GTO607C in the front doors. JL Audio CR650-CXi in the rear seat area. JBL Grand Touring GTO 427 in the rear hatch. The JBL's have the 2 ohm impedance like the factory speakers. I couldn't find JBL speakers for the rear seat area. So I stuck with the JL's. I really wanted to keep my car as original as possible and I did not want to use an aftermarket HU. Thanks for all the input.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
After all the suggestions I think I am going to just replace the speakers with the JBL Grand Touring GTO607C in the front doors. JL Audio CR650-CXi in the rear seat area. JBL Grand Touring GTO 427 in the rear hatch. The JBL's have the 2 ohm impedance like the factory speakers. I couldn't find JBL speakers for the rear seat area. So I stuck with the JL's. I really wanted to keep my car as original as possible and I did not want to use an aftermarket HU. Thanks for all the input.
Also, the hatch area mids are 4-ohm so it's not a good idea to put 2-ohm replacements there - the amp isn't 2-ohm stable on those channels. In fact, I wouldn't even bother upgrading those speakers since they are only there for rear fill and the factory speakers are generally quite sufficient for that.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
So I just placed my order. I got the JBL GTO607C's for the front doors. And I got Pioneer TS-A1782R 6-3/4" speakers for the rear seat speakers. I will just unplug the rear hatch speakers since they really don't do anything anyway. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm sure this setup will be better than the blown stock speakers.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, you're going to have the same problem with those Pioneer speakers that you would have with the JL Audio ones - the sail panels get only bass signal from the amp so only the woofers of the 4-way Pioneers will produce any sound. Since you're disconnecting the hatch speakers, you could pull the hatch mid wiring forward to the sail panels to get full range signal but you will lose a significant amount of power (and bass).
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
Well, you're going to have the same problem with those Pioneer speakers that you would have with the JL Audio ones - the sail panels get only bass signal from the amp so only the woofers of the 4-way Pioneers will produce any sound. Since you're disconnecting the hatch speakers, you could pull the hatch mid wiring forward to the sail panels to get full range signal but you will lose a significant amount of power (and bass).
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
Well, you're going to have the same problem with those Pioneer speakers that you would have with the JL Audio ones - the sail panels get only bass signal from the amp so only the woofers of the 4-way Pioneers will produce any sound. Since you're disconnecting the hatch speakers, you could pull the hatch mid wiring forward to the sail panels to get full range signal but you will lose a significant amount of power (and bass).
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
You could have ordered a pair of Audiopipe 6.5" DVC 4-ohm subs from Kee Audio (a sponsor here) that would make the best use of the factory wiring for a reasonable price. Without subs in the sail panels you should seriously consider adding an amp and sub to make up for the lost bass.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The Kicker subs are a possibility but the JLs are too deep to mount in the sail panels. Both brands are SVC subs so you will be giving up half the available power compared to using DVC subs.
I understand how a payment plan can be helpful but you could save a lot of money and still get subs that are better suited to the factory configuration. Kee Audio has the Audiopipe subs I mentioned for only $88 per pair.
Another option would be the Elemental Designs 7kv.2 DVC 6.5" subs. These are just a bit too deep so you'll need a 3/8" spacer for mounting but they provide a big improvement over stock and they're only $65 each. Many members (including me) have used these subs and been very impressed with them.
I understand how a payment plan can be helpful but you could save a lot of money and still get subs that are better suited to the factory configuration. Kee Audio has the Audiopipe subs I mentioned for only $88 per pair.
Another option would be the Elemental Designs 7kv.2 DVC 6.5" subs. These are just a bit too deep so you'll need a 3/8" spacer for mounting but they provide a big improvement over stock and they're only $65 each. Many members (including me) have used these subs and been very impressed with them.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, Ca
The Kicker subs are a possibility but the JLs are too deep to mount in the sail panels. Both brands are SVC subs so you will be giving up half the available power compared to using DVC subs.
I understand how a payment plan can be helpful but you could save a lot of money and still get subs that are better suited to the factory configuration. Kee Audio has the Audiopipe subs I mentioned for only $88 per pair.
Another option would be the Elemental Designs 7kv.2 DVC 6.5" subs. These are just a bit too deep so you'll need a 3/8" spacer for mounting but they provide a big improvement over stock and they're only $65 each. Many members (including me) have used these subs and been very impressed with them.
I understand how a payment plan can be helpful but you could save a lot of money and still get subs that are better suited to the factory configuration. Kee Audio has the Audiopipe subs I mentioned for only $88 per pair.
Another option would be the Elemental Designs 7kv.2 DVC 6.5" subs. These are just a bit too deep so you'll need a 3/8" spacer for mounting but they provide a big improvement over stock and they're only $65 each. Many members (including me) have used these subs and been very impressed with them.
