Sound Deadner Install Pics
05-01-2009, 11:31 PM
#161
ordered 120 sqft of edead 45 and it cost 118 shipped. Took 12 hours from start to finish, my fingers kill my back hurts and im hungry!! But it i started her up and what a difference. It sounded like stock. The doors shut with a decent thud not clank. By far i love it and can't wait to see what the road noise is like
05-02-2009, 09:44 AM
#162
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Last I read about fatmat was that it was asphault based.. So it may have some odor when the car gets hot inside... If you were going to go that route, I'd say just got to Lowe's or home depot and puck up some of their peel and stick for cheap..
05-04-2009, 09:55 AM
#164
Thanks for all the reviews/install pics guys!
I am looking to do this in my vert this summer and I have a question about the install.
How thick is the material if only 1 layer is applied, I am asking this because once the top is down, it may not sit too well on top of wheel wells.
Being that its a convertible, I suppose it wont be as quiet as ttop or hardtop cars?
I am looking to do this in my vert this summer and I have a question about the install.
How thick is the material if only 1 layer is applied, I am asking this because once the top is down, it may not sit too well on top of wheel wells.
Being that its a convertible, I suppose it wont be as quiet as ttop or hardtop cars?
05-22-2009, 08:03 AM
#165
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Over the last 5 days I have been installing 120sq ft of eDead sound deadner. Just got the interior back in today so I'll be trying everything out tomorrow to see how it sounds. Yes it took FOREVER and was somewhat of a PIA.
I did the entire car including the inside and outside of the doors, the fender wells inside the sail panel speaker hole, and double layered the center hump. I hope it's worth it
I did the entire car including the inside and outside of the doors, the fender wells inside the sail panel speaker hole, and double layered the center hump. I hope it's worth it
05-22-2009, 08:19 AM
#166
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I was wondering how thick of material you used and with out doing the inside of the doors do you think I could get away with 100 sq ft. let me know because, I'm looking at going with the 80 mls. I have an 84 and my floors are semi close to your design but mainly want to keep noise out in then passenger department and possibly going with the 50 for the trunk area, the doors and sail panel areas.
I'm about to order 60 more sq feet just to go back over the car.
05-22-2009, 09:31 AM
#167
Results/lesson learned Sound damping
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Just finished installing some sound deadening while doing other mods over the weekend. I'm really happy with the results. The exhaust drone( the part I don't like from my GMMG exhaust and road noise were reduced. The stereo sounds better as well.
1. I used the paint on stuff inside the doors. It made it real easy to get even coverage inside where I couldn't reach for mat. I only got the floor and sides done from the flat area behing the rear seat to the trunk. I used 44 sq ft. and less than 2 ft in the garbage from scraps! I bought 50 sq ft of Edead 80 thinking I could do the whole floor. Surprise, ordered 40 more sq ft today. Tough on the back and took approximately 10 hours to do. I think the mat helps the panels not vibrate as well.
ed
I included the 3.50 cent brush from harbor freight, it about 12" long and bent. It made doing the inside doors much easier. The paint on stuff combined with the mat would have been better but I only had 1 quart to do the inside of the doors. Using it in the back in the corners would have been faster.
ed
see oeig post for photos
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...d-damping.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just finished installing some sound deadening while doing other mods over the weekend. I'm really happy with the results. The exhaust drone( the part I don't like from my GMMG exhaust and road noise were reduced. The stereo sounds better as well.
1. I used the paint on stuff inside the doors. It made it real easy to get even coverage inside where I couldn't reach for mat. I only got the floor and sides done from the flat area behing the rear seat to the trunk. I used 44 sq ft. and less than 2 ft in the garbage from scraps! I bought 50 sq ft of Edead 80 thinking I could do the whole floor. Surprise, ordered 40 more sq ft today. Tough on the back and took approximately 10 hours to do. I think the mat helps the panels not vibrate as well.
ed
I included the 3.50 cent brush from harbor freight, it about 12" long and bent. It made doing the inside doors much easier. The paint on stuff combined with the mat would have been better but I only had 1 quart to do the inside of the doors. Using it in the back in the corners would have been faster.
ed
see oeig post for photos
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...d-damping.html
05-31-2009, 11:13 PM
#169
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Depends on what you want to do.. I did the doors, all of the trunk, floor up to the firewall, sides, everywhere except the headliner and hatch basically and it took me roughly 120
06-04-2009, 09:37 PM
#171
Just thought I'd add...if you're looking to just do the large flat sections of the floorpans and trunk area...you only really need about 40 square feet. That won't do up over the wheel wells, or in the doors, or along the rear quarters...but it'll get you a single layer of deadener on the drivers and passenger floorpans, as well as the tunnel behind the console, the entire backseat area, and the rear cargo area.
Should note I didn't waste anything...any scraps I had to cut off, I was able to find places I could put them into.
That said...I plan to buy another 60 or 80 square feet in the future to do the doors, the sail panels, the rear quarters, the rear wheel wells, further up the firewall (under GM's insulation) and double it up in a few areas too (the ones that sounded REALLY tinny before covering them...and they sound a lot better now...but still a little loose).
I used the amount I used for now with 2 goals in mind...I don't want to add TOO much weight to my car...and I also don't want to completely remove the carpet again, and I shouldn't need to now.
Should note I didn't waste anything...any scraps I had to cut off, I was able to find places I could put them into.
That said...I plan to buy another 60 or 80 square feet in the future to do the doors, the sail panels, the rear quarters, the rear wheel wells, further up the firewall (under GM's insulation) and double it up in a few areas too (the ones that sounded REALLY tinny before covering them...and they sound a lot better now...but still a little loose).
I used the amount I used for now with 2 goals in mind...I don't want to add TOO much weight to my car...and I also don't want to completely remove the carpet again, and I shouldn't need to now.
Last edited by Mike454SS; 06-04-2009 at 09:44 PM.
06-04-2009, 09:57 PM
#172
Just thought I'd add...if you're looking to just do the large flat sections of the floorpans and trunk area...you only really need about 40 square feet. That won't do up over the wheel wells, or in the doors, or along the rear quarters...but it'll get you a single layer of deadener on the drivers and passenger floorpans, as well as the tunnel behind the console, the entire backseat area, and the rear cargo area.
Should note I didn't waste anything...any scraps I had to cut off, I was able to find places I could put them into.
That said...I plan to buy another 60 or 80 square feet in the future to do the doors, the sail panels, the rear quarters, the rear wheel wells, further up the firewall (under GM's insulation) and double it up in a few areas too (the ones that sounded REALLY tinny before covering them...and they sound a lot better now...but still a little loose).
I used the amount I used for now with 2 goals in mind...I don't want to add TOO much weight to my car...and I also don't want to completely remove the carpet again, and I shouldn't need to now.
Should note I didn't waste anything...any scraps I had to cut off, I was able to find places I could put them into.
That said...I plan to buy another 60 or 80 square feet in the future to do the doors, the sail panels, the rear quarters, the rear wheel wells, further up the firewall (under GM's insulation) and double it up in a few areas too (the ones that sounded REALLY tinny before covering them...and they sound a lot better now...but still a little loose).
I used the amount I used for now with 2 goals in mind...I don't want to add TOO much weight to my car...and I also don't want to completely remove the carpet again, and I shouldn't need to now.
driver/passgenger both front and rear, as well as the hump going over and leading into the trunk area where the T-tops are?
I don't need to do the doors, sail panels. I just want to get rid of some road noise.
BTW what material did you use?
06-04-2009, 10:04 PM
#173
So how much should i order if i wanted to do the follwoing..
driver/passgenger both front and rear, as well as the hump going over and leading into the trunk area where the T-tops are?
I don't need to do the doors, sail panels. I just want to get rid of some road noise.
BTW what material did you use?
driver/passgenger both front and rear, as well as the hump going over and leading into the trunk area where the T-tops are?
I don't need to do the doors, sail panels. I just want to get rid of some road noise.
BTW what material did you use?
If it is 120 to do the entire car I would say about 75 to do what you need
06-05-2009, 04:15 PM
#174
So how much should i order if i wanted to do the follwoing..
driver/passgenger both front and rear, as well as the hump going over and leading into the trunk area where the T-tops are?
I don't need to do the doors, sail panels. I just want to get rid of some road noise.
BTW what material did you use?
driver/passgenger both front and rear, as well as the hump going over and leading into the trunk area where the T-tops are?
I don't need to do the doors, sail panels. I just want to get rid of some road noise.
BTW what material did you use?
I used Dynamat Extreme...not looking for perfection from my setup...just want to tighten up the parts of the floor and rear area that sound really tinny when you tap them with your knuckle...it may not be the best, but it's pretty cost effective (when you find the right place to buy it) and it does work.
01-28-2010, 07:01 PM
#178
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Tried to PM but its full:
Howdy Brian (and all),
Its been a long time but I am looking at ordering edead this week and new carpet to tackle redoing my interior in a couple weeks. I still need to redo the leather on my steering wheel and seats to be finished.
I had a couple questions:
1.) How do you like edead still?...has its effect diminished or has it gotten nasty from heat?
2.) How did you remove the glass from the doors to roll the edead into the doorwells?
3.) The plastic pieces that have never been removed (i.e. sail panel, door panels, center console); do they just get removed by plastic clips all around the edges?
Any other tips? I am ordering 100 sq. ft. of edead45 and doubling up in a couple of areas.
Thanks,
-Karl
Howdy Brian (and all),
Its been a long time but I am looking at ordering edead this week and new carpet to tackle redoing my interior in a couple weeks. I still need to redo the leather on my steering wheel and seats to be finished.
I had a couple questions:
1.) How do you like edead still?...has its effect diminished or has it gotten nasty from heat?
2.) How did you remove the glass from the doors to roll the edead into the doorwells?
3.) The plastic pieces that have never been removed (i.e. sail panel, door panels, center console); do they just get removed by plastic clips all around the edges?
Any other tips? I am ordering 100 sq. ft. of edead45 and doubling up in a couple of areas.
Thanks,
-Karl
01-31-2010, 12:00 AM
#179
Tried to PM but its full:
Howdy Brian (and all),
Its been a long time but I am looking at ordering edead this week and new carpet to tackle redoing my interior in a couple weeks. I still need to redo the leather on my steering wheel and seats to be finished.
I had a couple questions:
1.) How do you like edead still?...has its effect diminished or has it gotten nasty from heat?
2.) How did you remove the glass from the doors to roll the edead into the doorwells?
3.) The plastic pieces that have never been removed (i.e. sail panel, door panels, center console); do they just get removed by plastic clips all around the edges?
Any other tips? I am ordering 100 sq. ft. of edead45 and doubling up in a couple of areas.
Thanks,
-Karl
Howdy Brian (and all),
Its been a long time but I am looking at ordering edead this week and new carpet to tackle redoing my interior in a couple weeks. I still need to redo the leather on my steering wheel and seats to be finished.
I had a couple questions:
1.) How do you like edead still?...has its effect diminished or has it gotten nasty from heat?
2.) How did you remove the glass from the doors to roll the edead into the doorwells?
3.) The plastic pieces that have never been removed (i.e. sail panel, door panels, center console); do they just get removed by plastic clips all around the edges?
Any other tips? I am ordering 100 sq. ft. of edead45 and doubling up in a couple of areas.
Thanks,
-Karl
I just tackled this project (EXACTLY the same) over the past 3 weeks and I suggest you go with Second Skin's - Damplifier Pro as it is a FARRRR superior product and will hold up much better. I know it's more pricey, but worth it. Also, PM me if you want a suggestion on a good upholstery place here in Houston as I just had a shop do all mine and the door panel inserts in leather for an excellent price and they look killer. Let me know if you need any advise and good luck.
Gig'Em!!!
PS:
I can send u some pics of my seats if you are interested.
