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01-28-2009, 11:11 AM
#61
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I've got an older Clarion deck, wanting to replace, but not sure with what.
Sub: 1 - 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch XLC
Amps: Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w(for the sub)
Alpine MRP-F300 74w x 4(for speakers)
Speakers: Focal 165 A1 Components
Focal 165 CA1
I've got a 1 Farad capacitor too, can't remember brand though.
I'm running an Optima red top battery, but I think I need a beefier alternator or something cause sometimes my volts drop a little low on the gauge in my dash. I've got my sub in a stealth enclosure in the hatch and my amps and capacitor on the deck behind the back seats, can't put em in the hatch cause it's a t-tops car. I'm getting rear seat deletes when I get all moved to HI, then I'll prolly move the amps and capacitor to where the back seats used to be.
Sub: 1 - 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch XLC
Amps: Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w(for the sub)
Alpine MRP-F300 74w x 4(for speakers)
Speakers: Focal 165 A1 Components
Focal 165 CA1
I've got a 1 Farad capacitor too, can't remember brand though.
I'm running an Optima red top battery, but I think I need a beefier alternator or something cause sometimes my volts drop a little low on the gauge in my dash. I've got my sub in a stealth enclosure in the hatch and my amps and capacitor on the deck behind the back seats, can't put em in the hatch cause it's a t-tops car. I'm getting rear seat deletes when I get all moved to HI, then I'll prolly move the amps and capacitor to where the back seats used to be.
01-29-2009, 01:54 AM
#62
Launching!
Thread Starter
I've got an older Clarion deck, wanting to replace, but not sure with what.
Sub: 1 - 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch XLC
Amps: Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w(for the sub)
Alpine MRP-F300 74w x 4(for speakers)
Speakers: Focal 165 A1 Components
Focal 165 CA1
I've got a 1 Farad capacitor too, can't remember brand though.
I'm running an Optima red top battery, but I think I need a beefier alternator or something cause sometimes my volts drop a little low on the gauge in my dash. I've got my sub in a stealth enclosure in the hatch and my amps and capacitor on the deck behind the back seats, can't put em in the hatch cause it's a t-tops car. I'm getting rear seat deletes when I get all moved to HI, then I'll prolly move the amps and capacitor to where the back seats used to be.
Sub: 1 - 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch XLC
Amps: Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w(for the sub)
Alpine MRP-F300 74w x 4(for speakers)
Speakers: Focal 165 A1 Components
Focal 165 CA1
I've got a 1 Farad capacitor too, can't remember brand though.
I'm running an Optima red top battery, but I think I need a beefier alternator or something cause sometimes my volts drop a little low on the gauge in my dash. I've got my sub in a stealth enclosure in the hatch and my amps and capacitor on the deck behind the back seats, can't put em in the hatch cause it's a t-tops car. I'm getting rear seat deletes when I get all moved to HI, then I'll prolly move the amps and capacitor to where the back seats used to be.
You got pics?
01-29-2009, 10:57 AM
#63
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Nah, my car is in Hawaii right now and I'm in New Hampshire, I only have crummy pics of the exterior with me. I won't be in Hawaii for like another month or so, if you still wanna see pics then I'll take some and throw em up. I'll be getting rear seat deletes as soon as I can when I get over there though, and I'll be rearranging the amps and capacitor at that time.
01-30-2009, 04:07 AM
#64
Launching!
Thread Starter
Nah, my car is in Hawaii right now and I'm in New Hampshire, I only have crummy pics of the exterior with me. I won't be in Hawaii for like another month or so, if you still wanna see pics then I'll take some and throw em up. I'll be getting rear seat deletes as soon as I can when I get over there though, and I'll be rearranging the amps and capacitor at that time.
02-01-2009, 05:17 PM
#65
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Dang it there are some hatin ppl! Im glad to hear you got yourself a good build! Half the ppl talkin prolly havent put time into plannin a build! Dont let em talk you down! From the sound of it you know exactly what your doin! Look forward to seein sum pics after the install!
02-03-2009, 02:04 AM
#66
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Dang it there are some hatin ppl! Im glad to hear you got yourself a good build! Half the ppl talkin prolly havent put time into plannin a build! Dont let em talk you down! From the sound of it you know exactly what your doin! Look forward to seein sum pics after the install!
02-03-2009, 05:01 PM
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ummm. I would not use that particular thread to show-off how much you know about audio systems. There are a few bits of misinformation in your post in that thread.
I'll forgive the wording on "seeing it as a more powerful sub", it's not technically accurate, but I understand what you are trying to say. However, whether the load is in parallel or series depends on how the subs are physically wired to the amp(s). It has nothing to do with whether or not the amp is class D or class AB. In fact, you can raise and lower the amplifier output by changing the impedance load on either class D or AB. Take a 500 watt class D and a 500 watt class AB amp, side by side. Wire them both to a 4 ohm load, you get 500 watts. Wire them to a 2 ohm load, you get a theoretical 1000 watts. Wire them to a 8 ohm load, you get a theoretical 250 watts. They both output the same. Now, I say theoretical because whether or not the amp can handle the lower impedance loads, and doubles it's power, depends on the overall build quality of the amp, not whether or not it is class D. Class D amps are relatively new in the car audio world, but I remember the original Kicker ZR series of amps, class AB amps that were 2 ohm stable, and doubled their power into 2 ohms compared to their 4 ohm rating.
if you have two 4 ohms sub connected to a Class-D amp, It will see it as a more powerful sub (or wired parallel) , and there will be less resistance. So naturally the amp will almost double the wattage to the subs. Note this does not work for type AB amps (which sees the load as wired in a series, which will raise the ohms and use less power on each unit).
Last edited by MikeFbody; 02-03-2009 at 05:54 PM.
02-04-2009, 02:44 AM
#72
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ummm. I would not use that particular thread to show-off how much you know about audio systems. There are a few bits of misinformation in your post in that thread.
I'll forgive the wording on "seeing it as a more powerful sub", it's not technically accurate, but I understand what you are trying to say. However, whether the load is in parallel or series depends on how the subs are physically wired to the amp(s). It has nothing to do with whether or not the amp is class D or class AB. In fact, you can raise and lower the amplifier output by changing the impedance load on either class D or AB. Take a 500 watt class D and a 500 watt class AB amp, side by side. Wire them both to a 4 ohm load, you get 500 watts. Wire them to a 2 ohm load, you get a theoretical 1000 watts. Wire them to a 8 ohm load, you get a theoretical 250 watts. They both output the same. Now, I say theoretical because whether or not the amp can handle the lower impedance loads, and doubles it's power, depends on the overall build quality of the amp, not whether or not it is class D. Class D amps are relatively new in the car audio world, but I remember the original Kicker ZR series of amps, class AB amps that were 2 ohm stable, and doubled their power into 2 ohms compared to their 4 ohm rating.
I'll forgive the wording on "seeing it as a more powerful sub", it's not technically accurate, but I understand what you are trying to say. However, whether the load is in parallel or series depends on how the subs are physically wired to the amp(s). It has nothing to do with whether or not the amp is class D or class AB. In fact, you can raise and lower the amplifier output by changing the impedance load on either class D or AB. Take a 500 watt class D and a 500 watt class AB amp, side by side. Wire them both to a 4 ohm load, you get 500 watts. Wire them to a 2 ohm load, you get a theoretical 1000 watts. Wire them to a 8 ohm load, you get a theoretical 250 watts. They both output the same. Now, I say theoretical because whether or not the amp can handle the lower impedance loads, and doubles it's power, depends on the overall build quality of the amp, not whether or not it is class D. Class D amps are relatively new in the car audio world, but I remember the original Kicker ZR series of amps, class AB amps that were 2 ohm stable, and doubled their power into 2 ohms compared to their 4 ohm rating.
Last edited by M-ManLA; 02-04-2009 at 02:55 AM.
02-04-2009, 11:16 AM
#73
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No actually I am right. See class AB amps can't double power when you connect two subs. You can only "bridge" the channels, since in nature they are made for an multichannel installation. Since Mono (Class-D) amps are just outputting one signal (low frequency), and can't reproduce any high frequency sounds, they are wired in parallel. So there is extra wattage to be had when connecting a sub to a Mono amp. If you connect four 4Ohm speakers to a 4Ohm AB Amp, the load will still be 4Ohms. Connect two subs to a Class-D amp, then there will reduce the load to a 2Ohm resistance, and extra wattage is available to accommodate the second sub. That is why Class-T needs to become mainstream because this will be like a Class-D amp, with the digital circuitry and 80%+ efficiency, but be compatible with a full range speaker.
Let's take the Kicker XS100 amp for example. It's a full range, class AB stereo amplifier, but from the day's when men were men, and amp amps weighed more then the subs they were driving. When running a 4 ohm stereo load, it's rated at 50 watts x 2. Now, you cut the impedance in half to 2 ohms, and the output more then doubles to 125 watts x 2. If you bridge the channels it to a 4 ohm sub, it is rated at 250 watts x 1. Drop it down to a 2 ohm sub, and its rated at 500 watts x 1. But this is one beefy amp, and if you wire it up to a 1 ohm bridged load, the output increases to 1000 watts x 1.
In your reference to connecting 4 4 ohm speakers to a class AB amp equaling a 4 ohm load, it's all doing to depend on the wiring. Wiring each pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel for a 2 ohm load, then wiring them in stereo, will be a total amp load of 4 ohms, as will wiring each pair in parallel, and then wiring each parallel pair in series bridged mono to the amp. However, wiring all 4 speakers in parallel and bridged mono to the amp, will present a 1 ohm load. Granted, not many class AB amps today can do this, but the Kicker XS100 amp referenced in my example could, and would quadruple its output from the 4 ohm rated 250 watts x 1 to 1000 watts.
02-04-2009, 09:23 PM
#74
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I have been doing proffesional car audio for many years now and won many competitions. (Both SPL and SQ) And i must say... Wow. I think it is funny that SOO many people who, obviously, don't know that they are talking about, decide to chime in about everything. There are SO SO SO many different variables that all come into play when putting together a system that most people with the average brain can't even comprehend. This is one of the most unproffesional threads i've ever read.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
02-06-2009, 02:52 AM
#75
Launching!
Thread Starter
I have been doing proffesional car audio for many years now and won many competitions. (Both SPL and SQ) And i must say... Wow. I think it is funny that SOO many people who, obviously, don't know that they are talking about, decide to chime in about everything. There are SO SO SO many different variables that all come into play when putting together a system that most people with the average brain can't even comprehend. This is one of the most unproffesional threads i've ever read.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
Don't confuse amplifier class with mono-block or multi channel. There are class D amps that are 2 channel. I own 2 of them, JBL BPX1100.1, rated at 334 watts X2, or 1141 watts X 1, both into 4 ohm load. I can also wire it in parallel or bridge mode, depending on the impedance of the load. This particular class D amp will not double output when wired to a lower impedance load. It is designed to output power near 1100 watts to anything from a single 4 ohm load to a single 2 ohm load.
Let's take the Kicker XS100 amp for example. It's a full range, class AB stereo amplifier, but from the day's when men were men, and amp amps weighed more then the subs they were driving. When running a 4 ohm stereo load, it's rated at 50 watts x 2. Now, you cut the impedance in half to 2 ohms, and the output more then doubles to 125 watts x 2. If you bridge the channels it to a 4 ohm sub, it is rated at 250 watts x 1. Drop it down to a 2 ohm sub, and its rated at 500 watts x 1. But this is one beefy amp, and if you wire it up to a 1 ohm bridged load, the output increases to 1000 watts x 1.
In your reference to connecting 4 4 ohm speakers to a class AB amp equaling a 4 ohm load, it's all doing to depend on the wiring. Wiring each pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel for a 2 ohm load, then wiring them in stereo, will be a total amp load of 4 ohms, as will wiring each pair in parallel, and then wiring each parallel pair in series bridged mono to the amp. However, wiring all 4 speakers in parallel and bridged mono to the amp, will present a 1 ohm load. Granted, not many class AB amps today can do this, but the Kicker XS100 amp referenced in my example could, and would quadruple its output from the 4 ohm rated 250 watts x 1 to 1000 watts.
Let's take the Kicker XS100 amp for example. It's a full range, class AB stereo amplifier, but from the day's when men were men, and amp amps weighed more then the subs they were driving. When running a 4 ohm stereo load, it's rated at 50 watts x 2. Now, you cut the impedance in half to 2 ohms, and the output more then doubles to 125 watts x 2. If you bridge the channels it to a 4 ohm sub, it is rated at 250 watts x 1. Drop it down to a 2 ohm sub, and its rated at 500 watts x 1. But this is one beefy amp, and if you wire it up to a 1 ohm bridged load, the output increases to 1000 watts x 1.
In your reference to connecting 4 4 ohm speakers to a class AB amp equaling a 4 ohm load, it's all doing to depend on the wiring. Wiring each pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel for a 2 ohm load, then wiring them in stereo, will be a total amp load of 4 ohms, as will wiring each pair in parallel, and then wiring each parallel pair in series bridged mono to the amp. However, wiring all 4 speakers in parallel and bridged mono to the amp, will present a 1 ohm load. Granted, not many class AB amps today can do this, but the Kicker XS100 amp referenced in my example could, and would quadruple its output from the 4 ohm rated 250 watts x 1 to 1000 watts.
02-06-2009, 02:54 AM
#76
Launching!
Thread Starter
I have been doing proffesional car audio for many years now and won many competitions. (Both SPL and SQ) And i must say... Wow. I think it is funny that SOO many people who, obviously, don't know that they are talking about, decide to chime in about everything. There are SO SO SO many different variables that all come into play when putting together a system that most people with the average brain can't even comprehend. This is one of the most unproffesional threads i've ever read.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
Mike, you obviously are by far, from what I have been able to percieve on this thread, the most knowledgable person on this particular forum. Thank you for correcting everybody and shedding a decent amount of light on all the ignorance on here.
M-ManLA, you are nowhere near a novice, but also nowhere near as high of a level of knowledge as you think you have, and your logistics and technicalities are way off. Definately better that average, but not even close to a USACi competitor. So please, just build your system, and stray away from all of the unintellectual nonsense on here. I do admit, I have a Sony HU and it is by far the best I've owned (And yes its one of the $1000+ Sony's). Sony makes a good HU, but they will cost you. Even though I would NEVER build a Sony system, I firmly believe that one is capable of blowing a poorly-built $20,000 system away, but must be built very meticulously and with very precise tuning. So just do your best you can to make it sound what YOU like, cause that is all that will matter in the end.
There is no need for bashing. To every man his own. If you don't have SERIOUS experience, then do everybody a favor and please don't post unless you're honestly intereted in this man's progress, complementing him, or have a question. Childish bickering is redicilous.
02-06-2009, 10:58 AM
#77
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Yea what he said. Thanks for the advice I guess. I didn't want to discuss what system sucks in this forum. I wanted to show what I was building, and see what other people has. Components will be components, and they are only as good as the installer is. I still want to see PICS of ppl's systems. I haven't seen much yet.
02-14-2009, 08:43 PM
#79
I would not touch Sony car products with a 10 ft pole. I have a Kenwood HU and i have honestly never used a better one than the one i have. I have CDT speakers and a true audiophile can appreciate those, an RE sub, and MTX amps. The only reason im running MTX amps is because i got them cheap. Otherwise i would have US Amps. No offense man, i would most definitely look elsewhere for your audio needs. Talk to Kee Audio. He is a sponsor here, and he is very knowledgeable and he sells great product. Just my .02 but its your money.
03-13-2009, 04:45 PM
#80
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Finally got to Hawaii and picked up my car, here's a pic of the sub enclosure and the location of my amps and capacitor. Nothing special, but it gets the job done, still thinking about picking up rear seat deletes and rearranging. My components are under the stock grills, so nothing to show there.
