Well, I continue to plod along with my stereo upgrade which is way out of hand. The rack is done and the amps and wiring is done up to the center console.
I can't believe the wire I have gone through. I have at least $300.00 in wiring and terminal stuff. I didn't even buy monster or any other crazy brand. Just good quality stuff. 20 Ft of 0 ga. and 50 ft of 4 ga. (includes big 3)
The Terminal board (food cutting board) mounts where the old monsoon amp mounted. The active crossover mounts to a second plane on the back. Its a 6-channel Linkwitz-Riley electronic 24 db crossover with 8 outputs (front high-pass: 250 Hz and up, front low-pass: 90-250 Hz{going to my sail 6.5 woofers}, rear high-pass: 250 Hz and up, subwoofer: 30-90 Hz {10" Stealth}.
I have three amps: Sound stream 450/4 for the front and rear components, Rockford 250/2 to the sail speakers and MTX Jackhammer 600 to the 10" sub.

The speakers are ED 6.5 compnents front, 6.5 DVC Subs in sail, Ed 110v2 in the box and Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates in rear.
The Front speaker crossovers are mounted to the bottom of the passanger seat.

Need to mount the Kenwood 7140 and make a bezel hopefully done this weekend.

Ed
P.S. Anyone interested in commenting with what they would have bought instead , please PM me for my paypal account.LOL

 

Shows the wiring.
ed

 

The back of the cars done. The volt meter can be switched off by the hard to see micro switch circled in yellow. I also have a picture of the terminal board/crossover mount installed.
Head unit tomorrow, switched my day off from Friday to tomorrow to get the damn thing done.
Ed

 

May god be with you if you have any wiring problems.

 

I actually printed very small labels on my printer and attached them to the wires. I think I spent to long underwater surrounded by miles and miles of wire and electronics!

 

IMO,I would try x-over the fronts lower (80-100hz), and the sails lower also (40-60hz) to pull the bass forward. You can just buy or build (a lot cheaper) some new x-over modules.

 

Some true audiophiles are welcome to chime in as I'm just a retired.retarded old sonarmen.
Your suggestion would have the 6.5 speakers in the sail panel producing the same bass as the 10" in the back? I shouldn't have to pull the bass forward as bass is omni-directional and should not be spacially identifiable.

It sounds like by your comment that you didn't realize its an electronic crossover. The crossover your going to build with components for cheaper will be just that and sound cheaper. Your not going to put together a 24 db per octave crossover. Now with that being said you can reprogram the frequency points of this one. I included some of the info. We shall see hopefully soon, the only reason to change the points will be if the bass going to the sail speakers is too directional.

24 dB/Octave Linkwitz-Riley Alignment Crossover: The
programmable 24 dB/Octave audiophile caliber crossover in the
6XS is the same topology as in many other award winning Audio-
Control components. Needless to say, it is a far cry from the
wimpy crossovers that find their way into many amplifiers these
days. What is the benefit of fine tuning your system if you cannot
accurately route the proper frequencies to the proper amplifier
channels?
SETTING THE CROSSOVER MODULES
Selecting the Crossover Frequencies: Your 6XS comes
“preloaded” with crossover modules that will allow it to work in a
number of system configurations. Here are the factory settings:
Should your system require different frequencies than what comes
with the 6XS, fear not, as you can change the crossover modules to
accommodate just about any system configuration.
Most importantly, we recommend that you select crossover
frequencies according to the characteristics of your speakers. We
suggest the following ranges:
Tweeters: 3500 Hz and higher
Midrange: 250 Hz to 3500 Hz
Midbass: 80 Hz to 250 Hz
Subwoofers: 150 Hz and lower
As there is probably a good chance that you are not using Audio-
Control speakers (because we don’t make speakers), we suggest
you contact the manufacturers of your speakers for their recommendation.
The Legacy Of Crossover Modules To change the crossover
frequency on your 6XS, AudioControl products use a nifty plug-in
module. Crossover modules are more accurate and reliable than
most ***** or simple switches that are offered by other manufactures
and come on many amplifiers. Your authorized AudioControl
dealer will generally stock a wide selection of crossover modules
for your 6XS should you wish to change the crossover frequencies.
Four/Six Two
Outputs Channel Input Channel Input
Front Highpass 250 Hz and up 250Hz and up
Front Lowpass 90 Hz to 250Hz 90 Hz to 250 Hz
Rear Highpass 250 Hz and up
Subwoofer 30 Hz to 90 Hz 30 Hz to 90Hz
If your system design calls out for crossover frequencies that
your dealers does not stock, you can create custom modules by
using the following formula:
__7200___ = Resistor Value In Kilohms
Frequency (Hz)
Example:
For a 2500Hz module - 7200/2500=2.88K ohms
The 24 dB crossover module requires eight
resistors of this value.
Note: Use 1¤4 watt carbon or metal
film resistors of a 5% tolerance or
better.

 

I knew you were using a AudioControl electronic crossover, that's why I recommended buying, or better yet building your own X-over modules. My suggestions and opinions weren't meant as insults, just "suggestions and opinions", and nothing more. If you do decide to build your own modules I would recommend the 1% metal film resistors.

Enjoy your new system!

 

Oh I see, what about the points you selected, that still puts the 6.5's at the same place as the 10? Why not take the bass load off the suppose to be full range in the front?
Ed

 

All I know is my CDT HD-M6+ I have in my sail panels sound best x-over at 50hz(active,24db slope) and I run them up to about 4k(passive), and then my Diamond Audio S600s door speakers I run them down to about 75hz(active,18db slope)and then again at 30hz(active,subsonic filter 12db slope). My subs run from 90hz(active,24db slope) down to 28hz(active,18db slope) which is the frequency I selected for my subsonic filter, right below both my IDMAX 10s port tune frequency of 29hz.
It's what sounds good to me, but not necessarily to you.

 

I was reading that you can get holes in your response if you overlap your crossovers due to inverse phase arrival from multiple sources(location sensitive)? Well anyway its my plan to start from here. But like any good plan, contact with the enemy may require a change! Thanks for chiming in and giving me some input! Its not easy to fine people that actually have experience whit what your doing to get advice from.