DIY Pass Window Fix Step by Step (PICS missing)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
To do this properly on the driver's side you should add your relays and power/ground connections to the dark blue wire and the brown wire inside the door between the switches and the motor itself.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
To do this properly on the driver's side you should add your relays and power/ground connections to the dark blue wire and the brown wire inside the door between the switches and the motor itself.
The main issue here is that the passenger side window motor doesn't get the right amount of voltage. In essence, all you are really doing is moving the switch and putting in a direct power source. Because of that, I don't really see anything that tells me this would have any real effect on the speed of the driver's window motor. I could be wrong, but as far as I can tell, there would be little or no improvement, and it would probably turn into being a much more complex wiring setup.
When I read the voltage at the driver's window motor, it was right around 11.9 volts. The passenger window was getting I think 9.6-9.8 volts, both with the car running before the fix. After the fix, they both were getting 11.9-12.1 volts, which is right where they should be.
The driver's side is a whole different beast because of the express down. From what I'm looking at, if you did it that way you would lose express down, but I'm not 100% sure.
When I read the voltage at the driver's window motor, it was right around 11.9 volts. The passenger window was getting I think 9.6-9.8 volts, both with the car running before the fix. After the fix, they both were getting 11.9-12.1 volts, which is right where they should be.
The driver's side is a whole different beast because of the express down. From what I'm looking at, if you did it that way you would lose express down, but I'm not 100% sure.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Whitebird00 your correct that the relay locations would be different, as well as there placement. I know what im talking about, I was the one who engineered this mod to begin with, and Jimbo did a great job taking it upon himself to complete the mod and take pictures, and came up with a great write up.
I should mention when I originally experimented with this kit I had placed my relays right in front of the motor, because it was easier for most people to do - working inside the door panel is a pain and running all your power and ground wiring through the door grommet can get irritating. So when I went ahead and made my write up I changed the location to under the kick panel.
The drivers side motor does indeed get almost full voltage, unlike the passenger side. However when both switches are depressed simultaneously, the driver side voltage will drop to right around 9 volts.
So to answer your question, to do this mod on the driver side the instructions on how to wire the relays are exactly the same. The difference is you will need to mount your relays in the door panel, and then cut the blue brown wires going right into the motor so that you can connect them to the relay.
Feel free to PM me with any questions.
I should mention when I originally experimented with this kit I had placed my relays right in front of the motor, because it was easier for most people to do - working inside the door panel is a pain and running all your power and ground wiring through the door grommet can get irritating. So when I went ahead and made my write up I changed the location to under the kick panel.
The drivers side motor does indeed get almost full voltage, unlike the passenger side. However when both switches are depressed simultaneously, the driver side voltage will drop to right around 9 volts.
So to answer your question, to do this mod on the driver side the instructions on how to wire the relays are exactly the same. The difference is you will need to mount your relays in the door panel, and then cut the blue brown wires going right into the motor so that you can connect them to the relay.
Feel free to PM me with any questions.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I agree, adding relays to the blue and brown wires in the driver's door will allow you to pass full power to the motor. My concern is with what VIP1 asked - will the relays prevent the express down module from stopping because it doesn't see the increased resistance as the window reaches the end of its travel? They won't affect the initiation of the express down feature but I'm not sure the motor would stop at the appropriate time.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the lighting circuit and the power window circuit are not connected in any way.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
...not without knowing what is causing the problem. You'll have to do some diagnostics first. Check the bulbs - they get dimmer as they get older. Check voltage at the bulb sockets. Check for solid ground.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
The reason I'm asking is cause im almost positive their isnt the right amount of voltage going to that passenger side. I changed the door bulbs out for red leds and the passenger side is alot dimmer than the driver side. I'm not the only one to notice this. FamousZ also has this problem. I was just wondering if you guys knew maybe I'll figure it out on my own sometime.
Here's the kit I used on mine: http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Pass...Fix-Kit_1.aspx
Whichever way you do it, I HIGHLY recommend this fix. It's immediately noticeable, and it's nice to finally be able to roll down both windows at the same time without all of your lights dimming.
Whichever way you do it, I HIGHLY recommend this fix. It's immediately noticeable, and it's nice to finally be able to roll down both windows at the same time without all of your lights dimming.
Just wanted to give some insight on the driver side.
The factory module uses the equivlent of a zener diode and lowers the voltage to an even 10-11 volts (The modules seem to have some varience)
Adding new power to the module will not help AT ALL. The factory wiring is providing the module with a full 12v and big enough guage wire to support the 8+amp draw. The issue is the module not the wiring on that side, espeically after installing the relays on the passenger side.
Technically speaking you should be fine after isolating the windows on their own circuits. Extensive testing has proven to us that the problem is the module.
AutoTrix does have an after market module.
Good luck to everyone attempting to aquire parts locally, if you have them laying around your fine but otherwise it is allot of driving around to end up saving no money.
The factory module uses the equivlent of a zener diode and lowers the voltage to an even 10-11 volts (The modules seem to have some varience)
Adding new power to the module will not help AT ALL. The factory wiring is providing the module with a full 12v and big enough guage wire to support the 8+amp draw. The issue is the module not the wiring on that side, espeically after installing the relays on the passenger side.
Technically speaking you should be fine after isolating the windows on their own circuits. Extensive testing has proven to us that the problem is the module.
AutoTrix does have an after market module.
Good luck to everyone attempting to aquire parts locally, if you have them laying around your fine but otherwise it is allot of driving around to end up saving no money.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Ok guys I need help here. I've just completed this mod and I'm having problems. The passenger window does not move with the driver or passenger switch. My relays click when using the drivers button. I have checked the wiring and all the ground and + 12 V connections. I have measured voltage at the window switch on the passenger side and eveything seems to be working just fine except the window will not move. I did everything according to the writeup here except I removed the door panel and cut the tan and blue wires at the switch rather than before they enter the door. I do this kind of **** for a living and I'm stumped and feeling really dumb! Please help with some suggestions.