LS1Zedder

I just checked the manual and one of the wires for the RH power mirror motor (right/left) on the Firebird is light blue. See if this mirror still operates normally.

That is the correct relay that you showed in your picture.

Minacious

iTrader: (1)

First off, I appreciate all of the assistance.

Yes, the wires that go into the door are the ones that were cut.
The mirror still operates, as do the locks. I have no idea what in the world is going on.
Tomorrow I will have to give everything another thorough look.

jimbo98z

iTrader: (3)

I would say at this point you clipped the wrong wires.

You can pick up signal inside the door pretty easily, I personally decided to pick it up under the glove box so I wouldn't have to run any wires through the door grommet, and I didn't want to mount the relays in the door.

In terms of the relays you're using, that one looks correct.

Minacious

iTrader: (1)

I was able to get a partial fix.

By splicing from the door panel, I was able to get the window to work from the passenger side. It does indeed run like a champ.

From the driver's side however, I get nothing but relay clicks. The fuse is fine, and all of the connections appear to be fine. As far as the relays are concerned, I guess I will need to pick up a multimeter in order to test them.

With the fact that the window works from the passenger side, would that rule out any other areas of failure, besides a bad relay or fuse?

LS1Zedder

I will make the following assumptions based on the info you gave. You say your window goes up and down from the Passenger's side switch. The window does not go up and down from the driver's switch, BUT the relays are clicking.

- You have used the correct wires
- You have correctly connected the tan/light blue wires from the Driver's side to pin 85 of both relays
- You have correctly connected a ground wire to pin 86 of both relays.

Failure to do the above things correctly would mean the relays would not click when you press the up down switch on the drivers side.

The window motor on the passegner's side gets its ground through the drivers side switch. When you roll the window down, power goes through the tan wire and ground is done through the light blue. Going up is the other way round. Since you have severed these wires, they no longer go back to the driver's switch. They now go to your relays and connect to ground via pin 87A, the normally closed switch. What normally closed means is that in the relays normal state (which is unenergized, basically like you'd take it out of the box) pin 87A is Closed or in lamens terms, connected to pin 30. Pin 87 is normally open or not connected when the relay is in an unenergized state. When your relay clicks, pin 87 is now closed (connected to pin 30) and 87A is open (not connected). This is how this mod works. Power is sent down either the tan or light blue wire when the appropriate relay is engergized by the drivers button, and the motor receives ground through the other non engergized relay. When using the passengers side button is used. power is sent by that button, but ground is still through your relays (both of which are denergized). Bottom line, your ground wires to your relays are correct or the window wouldnt work.

This could mean 3 things.

- You have connected ground wires to pins 87A and your tan/light blue wires to pin 30. If you have done this, you either have not connected your 12V battery line to pin 87 OR your fuse is blown OR you have a break in your 12V battery wire. Power is not getting through your relay to the window.

- You have connected ground wires to pin 30 and your tan/light blue wires to pin 87A. Doing this means that your passengers side switch would work because you would have a ground path, but 12V power would not be sent down the correct wire when you use the drivers button.

- Your relays are bad. Which I doubt since you hear them clicking. It is possible that they screwed up when you connected them as the O.P had happen. I also have had relays screw up that way.

Hope this helps some. Let us know if you need more help.

Minacious

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'll get this figured out eventually.

Tomorrow I will go through it all again and report back.

Thanks again.

Minacious

iTrader: (1)

Well the culprit has been found, and it was me. A simple case of user error. A weak connection on the battery end was the cause of my headache. Once that was corrected, the window is going up and down, from both sides, like a track star.

I am very appreciative for all of the assistance.

Thank You
Ed

LS1Zedder

Glad you got it figured out.

jimbo98z

iTrader: (3)

+1 It's always something simple, right?

Minacious

iTrader: (1)

Indeed.

I was thinking, "I know this isn't my area of expertise, but come on now."

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I am going to add this onto my list of things to do to my cars. I replaced both window motors in my 95 about a year ago and the passenger one is still as slow as *****.

I want to do it to my Formula too because I was noticing that it was slowing down.

brutalis

iTrader: (3)

Just went out and bought supplies for this project. Took me 2 hours of driving and waiting around at (s)lowes, 4 stores, and about $50, and was still unable to find all the stuff i needed (like the splice tap connectors and appropriate female discons - nobody seems to sell the 10-12ga stuff). In hindsight, I would have bought the autotrix kit, saved a few buck and a lot of time and frustration, but good info nonetheless.

TruBloodTransAm

iTrader: (24)

Another vote for the AutoTrix kit, installed it a few weeks ago, passenger window works better than new.

brutalis

iTrader: (3)

Having a problem!! I connected everything as instructed, and when i got to testing (pre fuse installation), I ran into a problem. I checked the passenger side switch, and the window went down about 2 inches, then stopped. Now it won't move at all, from passenger side switch or driver's side. The relays still click, but no movement no matter what. The driver's side window still goes up and down fine, and reconnecting the tan and blue wires was no help. Has something catastrophic happened to my window motor??

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

Double check your connections to the motor wires. The connectors that come with the Autotrix kits are okay, but if you don't crimp them just right, they will come loose. I ended up soldering and heat shrinking some of my wires and I plan on going back and soldering the rest.

brutalis

iTrader: (3)

Got it fixed. I guess the initial jolt of the window moving pulled something loose on the motor side. I reached in the door and jiggled the plug on the motor and everything is working just fine now.

cabbottusmc1803

HELP!!!!! Did the mod, everything works electrical wise, relays click (should only click from the driver side correct?) however window still does the same thing i did before will go down and then stop and after a few minutes it will go up or down another few inches then stop. I need some ideas please.

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Probably just a bad motor then.

If the motor is too far gone then adding proper power is not going to fix anything.

cabbottusmc1803

Yea thats what i was thinking can i get away with just buying a motor or do i need to buy a regulator also?

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Yeah you can buy just the motor. You will have to drill out the rivets holding it to the regulator. Not real difficult. You can find instructions on the AutoTrix site or Bfranker.