Optima Batteries Any Good?
#41
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I always use Stinger batteries in my installs and customers cars/boats. They're a dry cell battery with a higher discharge rate. In the boats, most of my customers can play their stereo for a couple days before needing a recharge, and that's a 3-4 amp system that draws a lot of current. The batteries also have a 2-year replacement warranty if bought through a dealer. The only drawback is that their a little pricey compared to Optima's.
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Optima red top here for about 7 years with no problems...but I disconnect the bat if the truck sits for mor than 7 days and I have only a bazzoka 8" self amplified sub.
FWIW, go wit a yellow top if you have a high need stereo/amp setup or if you park your car more than it's driven.
Let us know what u do.
FWIW, go wit a yellow top if you have a high need stereo/amp setup or if you park your car more than it's driven.
Let us know what u do.
#43
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I say ditch the cap and put in a yellow top and good wires.
My stereo is 700W RMS (150 to each front channel and 400 to the sub, no other speakers) and I never have a problem...all stock wiring under my hood (original well maintained/cleaned/protected 170K mile battery cables) and quality power wire off the positive terminal running to the back for the 2 amps. My car is my daily driver, but when work sends me away (usually for 8-9 days, sometimes more) the car fires RIGHT up after having sat for that much time.
When I datalog while I'm tuning, I drive it with the stereo on just as loud as I normally would (too loud, probably causing ear damage) and my datalogs show absolutely no voltage drops or issues at all...no need for a cap...it's only 100W (7.25 amps at 13.8 volts) difference from mine to yours.
For what it's worth, the Optima has been in the Camaro for ~83K miles (since I bought the car 2 years ago) as well as in my old Silverado 2500HD for a year and ~20K before that...the Silverado also had a stereo, same amps, different head unit and speakers, but same amps...so it's 3 years old, and has 100K miles on it, and it's fine. I killed it once (listening to the stereo while removing the interior to dynamat the floor...had it on for a solid 6-7 hours at high volume) and I didn't even put it on a charger, I just walked away from the car for an hour and when I came back, it cranked over (very slowly) and started up...had to hold it up off idle (I just took it on the highway and set the cruise control) while it charged, but it recovered just fine and it's been perfect since.
My stereo is 700W RMS (150 to each front channel and 400 to the sub, no other speakers) and I never have a problem...all stock wiring under my hood (original well maintained/cleaned/protected 170K mile battery cables) and quality power wire off the positive terminal running to the back for the 2 amps. My car is my daily driver, but when work sends me away (usually for 8-9 days, sometimes more) the car fires RIGHT up after having sat for that much time.
When I datalog while I'm tuning, I drive it with the stereo on just as loud as I normally would (too loud, probably causing ear damage) and my datalogs show absolutely no voltage drops or issues at all...no need for a cap...it's only 100W (7.25 amps at 13.8 volts) difference from mine to yours.
For what it's worth, the Optima has been in the Camaro for ~83K miles (since I bought the car 2 years ago) as well as in my old Silverado 2500HD for a year and ~20K before that...the Silverado also had a stereo, same amps, different head unit and speakers, but same amps...so it's 3 years old, and has 100K miles on it, and it's fine. I killed it once (listening to the stereo while removing the interior to dynamat the floor...had it on for a solid 6-7 hours at high volume) and I didn't even put it on a charger, I just walked away from the car for an hour and when I came back, it cranked over (very slowly) and started up...had to hold it up off idle (I just took it on the highway and set the cruise control) while it charged, but it recovered just fine and it's been perfect since.
#44
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kinetic all the way. ive got one in my camaro and also one in my jeep. my jeep has a full system, tvs, subs, amps, xbox, cap, interior leds, etc and i never have a problem with it whatsoever
#45
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I have a yellow top in my t/a and run a red top in the yukon. both have sound systems in it and have never had issues with either one. The t/a has a cap in it and alarm as well, but even if I leave it sitting for a couple weeks it does not drain.
To my knowledge the cap should not be draining the battery if the car is just sitting there??
To my knowledge the cap should not be draining the battery if the car is just sitting there??
#46
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had a bad string of redtops...after about 4 days they would be dead. I did big 3...alternator etc. This last battery is a sears diehard platinum...its a rebadged odyssee but 50 bux cheaper....this joker rocks. I left parking lights on for 2 hours....and the car fired right up....after days of sitting it always starts like its fresh. expensive but great warranty
#47
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i'm goin to buy a red top on thursday since my interstate just took a **** on me
it lasted almost 4 years so i'm happy about that. my question other than if the battery takes a **** on me i'll just take it back and get another . . . why are your cars lights staying on for more than 10 minutes??????? mine turn off if i leave them on, it's a feature GM put in the vehicles to prevent the failure of batteries isn't it?
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#52
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I have had a Red top for three year and no big problems. Killed it a couple times, because it was not driven for two months (but I expected that). I was told by one guy that sells them that the Red tops are just like a normal battery except they will come back from being dead more times than a normal battery.
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Yeah, for the T/A it would probably wear on the motors in them when they turned on everytime at 6 p.m when you dont need em. Plus nothin like turning just the fogs on manually!
Last edited by BlackHawk256; 04-19-2010 at 04:37 PM.