factory car alarm
#1
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i had a problem with my factory car alarm this past weekend it would not let my car crank over so i thought it may be a bad starter which it wasn't check the fuses and relays..nothin i asked several people to see what they thought it maybe.. i remembered the dam car alarm so i unplugged the positive post on the battery than (with the help of a friend) put the key on the on position i put the positive post back on and he cranked it over an sure enough the car started.... does anyone know what might have caused that to happen??
#2
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If it's a factory alarm, then you should have a bypass switch that will allow you to start it with the key in the ignition. Mine does and in the past if the key fob was dead and I had to enter the car with the key in the door method and the alarm was going off this was the only way to start it. Check for a little black button under the dash below the steering column.
#3
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I've never heard of a factory alarm having such an override switch - certainly not on f-bodies. Aftermarket alarm systems have those switches but not factory ones. The factory alarm system can be disabled without the remote by merely turning on the ignition with the correct key.
Besides, I doubt the alarm had anything to do with the starting problem. The only time the alarm system would prevent starting is when it is triggered - and you would know that the lights were flashing and the horn was honking. The problem was most likely caused by your VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System). That is the circuit that checks for the correct ignition key by checking the resistor pellet in the key. If the resistance value isn't correct, the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster will illuminate and the car won't start. This can be caused by grime on the key contacts or in the ignition cylinder. A little contact cleaner will often take care of the problem.
Besides, I doubt the alarm had anything to do with the starting problem. The only time the alarm system would prevent starting is when it is triggered - and you would know that the lights were flashing and the horn was honking. The problem was most likely caused by your VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System). That is the circuit that checks for the correct ignition key by checking the resistor pellet in the key. If the resistance value isn't correct, the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster will illuminate and the car won't start. This can be caused by grime on the key contacts or in the ignition cylinder. A little contact cleaner will often take care of the problem.
#4
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I've never heard of a factory alarm having such an override switch - certainly not on f-bodies. Aftermarket alarm systems have those switches but not factory ones. The factory alarm system can be disabled without the remote by merely turning on the ignition with the correct key.
Besides, I doubt the alarm had anything to do with the starting problem. The only time the alarm system would prevent starting is when it is triggered - and you would know that the lights were flashing and the horn was honking. The problem was most likely caused by your VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System). That is the circuit that checks for the correct ignition key by checking the resistor pellet in the key. If the resistance value isn't correct, the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster will illuminate and the car won't start. This can be caused by grime on the key contacts or in the ignition cylinder. A little contact cleaner will often take care of the problem.
Besides, I doubt the alarm had anything to do with the starting problem. The only time the alarm system would prevent starting is when it is triggered - and you would know that the lights were flashing and the horn was honking. The problem was most likely caused by your VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System). That is the circuit that checks for the correct ignition key by checking the resistor pellet in the key. If the resistance value isn't correct, the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster will illuminate and the car won't start. This can be caused by grime on the key contacts or in the ignition cylinder. A little contact cleaner will often take care of the problem.
#5
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Sorry, no... the f-body never came with a factory alarm that had an override switch.
I know exactly what you have - it was a dealer installed alarm option sold as a GM accessory as an upgrade to a basic keyless entry system. It was made for GM by DEI and is based on the Hornet alarm system. It had the advantage of splicing into the factory keyless entry system so that the original remotes could be retained. I can even get you the GM part number if you're interested.
I know exactly what you have - it was a dealer installed alarm option sold as a GM accessory as an upgrade to a basic keyless entry system. It was made for GM by DEI and is based on the Hornet alarm system. It had the advantage of splicing into the factory keyless entry system so that the original remotes could be retained. I can even get you the GM part number if you're interested.
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#9
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If the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster is on then you still have a VATS problem - it is seeing the wrong resistance value. If the SECURITY light is flashing then the VATS can't detect any resistance value at all (as though the key has no pellet). This could be caused by a broken wire or bad contacts in the ignition cylinder.
If the SECURITY light isn't on then the problem is with the starting system (starter, starter relay, battery, wiring, etc.).
If the SECURITY light isn't on then the problem is with the starting system (starter, starter relay, battery, wiring, etc.).