d/s power window Im screwed
d/s power window Im screwed My d/s window just quit on me. Damn thing is about 2/3 of the way down. 
Is there any way to get it up or am I out of luck? I have no place to park it for the night in a "proteceted area". On top of that its raining and suppossed to snow this weekend.
Looks like I'll be bundled up sleeping in my car tonight.
Is there any way to get it up or am I out of luck? I have no place to park it for the night in a "proteceted area". On top of that its raining and suppossed to snow this weekend. Looks like I'll be bundled up sleeping in my car tonight.
Sounds like the classic thermal failure. I've found that this may help:
- Turn the car off and open the door. (This cuts all power to the car.)
- Turn the engine on and let it idle. (This gives you maximum power.)
- Open the door.
- Tug up on the glass as hard as you can while hitting the up switch. If it moves, keep pulling until the window is all the way up. (You might get someone to help you with this.)
- If you get it back up, disconnect the switch so you accidentally don't put it down again until you can get a replacement motor in. (If you put it down, it may never come back up again.)
As the thermal cutoff switch goes bad, just the normal weight of the window is enough to make it "think" that the window is all the way up. Pulling on the glass reduces some of the stress on the motor and might be enough to get it all the way up.
- Turn the car off and open the door. (This cuts all power to the car.)
- Turn the engine on and let it idle. (This gives you maximum power.)
- Open the door.
- Tug up on the glass as hard as you can while hitting the up switch. If it moves, keep pulling until the window is all the way up. (You might get someone to help you with this.)
- If you get it back up, disconnect the switch so you accidentally don't put it down again until you can get a replacement motor in. (If you put it down, it may never come back up again.)
As the thermal cutoff switch goes bad, just the normal weight of the window is enough to make it "think" that the window is all the way up. Pulling on the glass reduces some of the stress on the motor and might be enough to get it all the way up.
It does flicker the dash lights but absolutley no sounds or activity. The window can be moved around slightly when you pull it up but the motor doesn't move anything. It was working slow off and on yesterday like it was normal speed and then it just stopped and became unresponsive. For once, unfortunatley for me the weatherman was right, it snowed last night.
Got the window up now. I tugged on the window as I was hitting the switch to go up and it went up like "normal" speed as if nothing's wrong. I did move the wires around and it started working. I went through some receipts for the car and the window motor and stabilizer was replaced 2 years ago. Any ideas?
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Got the window up now. I tugged on the window as I was hitting the switch to go up and it went up like "normal" speed as if nothing's wrong. I did move the wires around and it started working. I went through some receipts for the car and the window motor and stabilizer was replaced 2 years ago. Any ideas?
These motors die like crazy. I'd suggest replacing your motor with the new doorman design. (Available at any local auto parts store.) It has a different case design, which is supposed to be sealed better and less prone to failure. I have yet to hear about someone having on of these die on them, but the new design isn't that old yet. (It should also come with a lifetime warranty.)
You'll also want to make sure you get a NEW motor and not a reman. The remans don't last as long and recently it sounds like some folks have been getting bad remans that are wired backwards. Again, the Doorman motors will be new and everything else will most likely be a reman.
You can also go with an aftermarket motor/regulator setup, but that's super expensive. I went that route before the Doorman came out and am good but if I had to do it again today, I'd probably try the Doorman motor.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 1
From: Elgin, Il
A little late, but most F body window motors fail because the regulators get all rusted and/or covered in ****, making the motor work too hard thus burning it out. I'd replace the whole regulator and put in the new motor if you have the means to. Never helps to check your wiring as well 
If you can't get a new regulator and your not afraid to dive into the door you can remove the regulator and thoroughly clean and lubricate it.
If you can't get a new regulator and your not afraid to dive into the door you can remove the regulator and thoroughly clean and lubricate it. 
When I pulled my "dead" motors apart, they were far from dead. They had usual signs of wear, but it was the thermal overload resistor that failed. In a nutshell what that does is sense resistance in the motors operation, and regulate power based on resistance. For instance, no resistance = 12 volts. When the window hits the top of the track, where it cant go any more, the resistor is seeing a spike in load on the motor and cuts the power.
They are garbage and entered the GM parts bin in the early 70's! There are several ways these things commonly fail or cause issues with window operation. Any can cause motor shutdown or binding.
- Thermal resistor
- Rusting motor
- Burned out motor
- Flat-spotted regulator rollers
- Loose connections between motor and regulator (usually after a repair/replacement)
- Torn regulator mounting holes
- Broken rear guide roller (from the window glass bracket)
So far, we have two alternatives:
- The new Doorman design for the motor. (I have not yet seen/heard of any complaints or problems with this motor design - but its just a few years old.)
- A replacement motor/regulator system. ElectricLife makes one, but its a real expensive proposition. I have this in my car and its been going strong for several years.
- Thermal resistor
- Rusting motor
- Burned out motor
- Flat-spotted regulator rollers
- Loose connections between motor and regulator (usually after a repair/replacement)
- Torn regulator mounting holes
- Broken rear guide roller (from the window glass bracket)
So far, we have two alternatives:
- The new Doorman design for the motor. (I have not yet seen/heard of any complaints or problems with this motor design - but its just a few years old.)
- A replacement motor/regulator system. ElectricLife makes one, but its a real expensive proposition. I have this in my car and its been going strong for several years.
There is actually a third option, one I have now done several times. It involves bypassing the thermal strip in the motor itself. I have explained it a few times on here but have not done a write-up yet. If somebody wants to send me a bad motor I will do a write-up with pics and then send the repaired motor back to them.
I would definatley like to see a write up slow96z. Hopefully someone will send you an old motor. Even a month after first posting this topic I still have yet to put my new window motor in. Too much work and not enough play. 
These widow motors do suck I just did mine about two days ago. I did my passenger side about a month ago and now my drivers side went out. Put on a reman and BAM wired wrong just like with my passenger one I ended up doing 2 times the work but practice does make it easier, but nobody said that practice is fun...
Bypassing the thermal resistor is a bad idea. It is a safety net and keeps the (very powerful) motor from tearing the fiberglass mounting points. While this person's issues were not related to a bypass, I'd think that a bypass would make this kind of thing more likely: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
Purchasing a new Doorman motor is worth it - especially considering the lifetime warranty and the grief that a shade tree solution could bring.
Purchasing a new Doorman motor is worth it - especially considering the lifetime warranty and the grief that a shade tree solution could bring.
Bypassing the thermal resistor is a bad idea. It is a safety net and keeps the (very powerful) motor from tearing the fiberglass mounting points. While this person's issues were not related to a bypass, I'd think that a bypass would make this kind of thing more likely: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
Purchasing a new Doorman motor is worth it - especially considering the lifetime warranty and the grief that a shade tree solution could bring.
Purchasing a new Doorman motor is worth it - especially considering the lifetime warranty and the grief that a shade tree solution could bring.
I did say in each of my posts regarding this mod that the safety is no longer in place, but if I recall correctly there are adjustable metal stops in the door that are mounted to the window channels themselves so any additional force from the motor would be placed against the metal stop and not on the fiberglass. I guess you could install a new circuit breaker inline with the power lead to the motor, that would put the safety back in place without having to rely on the old worn resistance strip. Either way, (and this should go without saying, or I would have said it before) if you do the mod stop pressing the button once the window is up!
There are stops inside the rear guide channel, but once a roller hits them, the forces go through the stops to the channels to the channel mounting points on the fiberglass door and back through the guide to the window to the regulator arms to the regulator mounting points. Since there are only two mounting points on the rear guide and four on the regulator, there may be even more stress where that rear guide attaches to the door. The rear guide that contacts the stop is also weak and notorious for breaking: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...w-related.html
i've got an old motor i just pulled out of my drivers side within the past month, if you wanna use it for a write-up..
here's a video of how mine was moving from some damage done to the fiberglass in the door, causing the front to stop about 1/4 inch from being all the way up..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzod6HeEVYg
here's a video of how mine was moving from some damage done to the fiberglass in the door, causing the front to stop about 1/4 inch from being all the way up..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzod6HeEVYg
