Different turn signal/brake light problem.
#1
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Didn't see any threads with problems exactly like mine so here it is.
Here is the deal. My passenger rear turn signal/brake light will not work. I have replaced the bulbs, checked the sockets, everything is fine. The front passenger turn signal just stays on solid and well as the one in the dash cluster. The driver's side works fine. However when I put on the hazards the front lights begin to blink but only the driver's rear lights blink. What else could be the problem?
It seems that the problem would be in the passenger tail light cluster but I checked it and it's fine, has voltage, and the parking lights work but just not the brake or signal.
Thanks.
Here is the deal. My passenger rear turn signal/brake light will not work. I have replaced the bulbs, checked the sockets, everything is fine. The front passenger turn signal just stays on solid and well as the one in the dash cluster. The driver's side works fine. However when I put on the hazards the front lights begin to blink but only the driver's rear lights blink. What else could be the problem?
![Huh](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/huh.gif)
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Thanks.
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wrencher
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Well it is prolly the turn signal switch.
Try to hold the brake on & slight move the turn lever & see if the lamp lights.
Kinda common for them to fry, not as much on F-bodies though.
You have to remove the air bag, wheel, clockspring, lockplate w/ special tool to get to turn signal switch.
Try to hold the brake on & slight move the turn lever & see if the lamp lights.
Kinda common for them to fry, not as much on F-bodies though.
You have to remove the air bag, wheel, clockspring, lockplate w/ special tool to get to turn signal switch.
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that normally means your bulb burned out.....it hapened to my front DRL's...but if not id say check the Flasher....people say its behind the stereo....or take it to GM or somethng and have em take a look if you cant figure it out
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It can't be the flasher since it's only happening on one side and the flasher is used for both sides (the turn signal flasher is clipped to the underside of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering wheel).
You are correct that the problem is in the tail light. When lights aren't working, the flasher doesn't see enough current to break the circuit (flash) so the remaining lights stay on. You've checked the tail light bulbs (all of them?) and for voltage at the sockets - the next step would be to check for a good ground at the sockets. If the ground is bad, you could track down the problem but it's easier to just run another ground to the bolt near the hatch latch.
You are correct that the problem is in the tail light. When lights aren't working, the flasher doesn't see enough current to break the circuit (flash) so the remaining lights stay on. You've checked the tail light bulbs (all of them?) and for voltage at the sockets - the next step would be to check for a good ground at the sockets. If the ground is bad, you could track down the problem but it's easier to just run another ground to the bolt near the hatch latch.
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Originally Posted by wrencher
Well it is prolly the turn signal switch.
Try to hold the brake on & slight move the turn lever & see if the lamp lights.
Kinda common for them to fry, not as much on F-bodies though.
You have to remove the air bag, wheel, clockspring, lockplate w/ special tool to get to turn signal switch.
Try to hold the brake on & slight move the turn lever & see if the lamp lights.
Kinda common for them to fry, not as much on F-bodies though.
You have to remove the air bag, wheel, clockspring, lockplate w/ special tool to get to turn signal switch.
Well the light sort of worked for a second when I moved the tilt for the steering wheel. IT is probably that. I already replaced bulbs and the flasher.
How to take off the steering wheel? The airbag was ease but that steering wheel does not want to come off. Clockspring? Lockplate? Info please.
TIA
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You need a puller to get the the steering wheel off, a harmonic balancer puller will work.
You need a pair of snap ring pliers to get the ring for the clock spring.
Once C/Spring is removed do not allow it to rotate.
Then you need a lock plate compressor to push lock plate down to get retaining ring off of steering shaft.
The the plate will come up & there's the switch.
Now comes the hard part.
To do the switch you have to take it's connector from main bulk connector & cut the wire & pull old one thru the column harness guide tube.
Then the new switch, push the terminal locks down on the connector end & remove all the terminals from the connector.
Save the old cut off connector to help you rewire it back, when reassembled.
You need to have some mechanic's wire/bailing wire wrap it arounnd the bunch of wires & then tape it up w/electrical tape.
You pull the wiring down thru the wiring guide tube , reinstall terminals (in proper positions) & reverse disassembly.
Sounds like fun huh?
You need a pair of snap ring pliers to get the ring for the clock spring.
Once C/Spring is removed do not allow it to rotate.
Then you need a lock plate compressor to push lock plate down to get retaining ring off of steering shaft.
The the plate will come up & there's the switch.
Now comes the hard part.
To do the switch you have to take it's connector from main bulk connector & cut the wire & pull old one thru the column harness guide tube.
Then the new switch, push the terminal locks down on the connector end & remove all the terminals from the connector.
Save the old cut off connector to help you rewire it back, when reassembled.
You need to have some mechanic's wire/bailing wire wrap it arounnd the bunch of wires & then tape it up w/electrical tape.
You pull the wiring down thru the wiring guide tube , reinstall terminals (in proper positions) & reverse disassembly.
Sounds like fun huh?
#7
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Originally Posted by wrencher
You need a puller to get the the steering wheel off, a harmonic balancer puller will work.
You need a pair of snap ring pliers to get the ring for the clock spring.
Once C/Spring is removed do not allow it to rotate.
Then you need a lock plate compressor to push lock plate down to get retaining ring off of steering shaft.
The the plate will come up & there's the switch.
Now comes the hard part.
To do the switch you have to take it's connector from main bulk connector & cut the wire & pull old one thru the column harness guide tube.
Then the new switch, push the terminal locks down on the connector end & remove all the terminals from the connector.
Save the old cut off connector to help you rewire it back, when reassembled.
You need to have some mechanic's wire/bailing wire wrap it arounnd the bunch of wires & then tape it up w/electrical tape.
You pull the wiring down thru the wiring guide tube , reinstall terminals (in proper positions) & reverse disassembly.
Sounds like fun huh?
You need a pair of snap ring pliers to get the ring for the clock spring.
Once C/Spring is removed do not allow it to rotate.
Then you need a lock plate compressor to push lock plate down to get retaining ring off of steering shaft.
The the plate will come up & there's the switch.
Now comes the hard part.
To do the switch you have to take it's connector from main bulk connector & cut the wire & pull old one thru the column harness guide tube.
Then the new switch, push the terminal locks down on the connector end & remove all the terminals from the connector.
Save the old cut off connector to help you rewire it back, when reassembled.
You need to have some mechanic's wire/bailing wire wrap it arounnd the bunch of wires & then tape it up w/electrical tape.
You pull the wiring down thru the wiring guide tube , reinstall terminals (in proper positions) & reverse disassembly.
Sounds like fun huh?
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#8
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Lots of places sell them lisle tools is the common one for them.
LIS57340 is the part # for the tool.
www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&prodID=1096
LIS57340 is the part # for the tool.
www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&prodID=1096