LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

i wonder how much the amp will realisticly put out at 4ohms. also wondering how many watts i can put to the pioneer speaker. as far as boxes go would it be better to have the speaker facing down or up? i would assume up. also i would assume its better to have the speaker in the cubby space vs under the glass.

SparksAI

Planet audio makes good products, If they say 700 you are looking like 500-600 most likely, they just are not CEA-2006 certified which is a 3rd party fact checker. They could push out a solid 700w but without measuring it no one will know for sure. As far as enclosures what were you looking at? I personally like firing subs up in a hatch area, I haven't seen too many boxes for the F-Body that are down firing.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

as far as enclosures go i am building one. i was thinking of a box that ran the width of the cubby space that sat on top of the plastic t top holder and then there would be a gap between the box and bottom center of cubby space, it was just an idea. i will build it to fire to the top and be within the cubby space. now i just gotta decide how much space i want in the box, and maybe throw some filler in it.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

With 3/4in MDF I will have an internal dimension of 1.116, then subtract the magnet size from it and you get 1.058cuft. With 5/8 MDF board I get an internal dimension of 1.187 then subtract speaker size in the box from it and I get 1.129cuft. I only found the size of the speaker rear one time, and I can't find it again. .058 is what I remember and that seems about correct/believable.
This box will fit inbetween the plastic ttop side holder things. And doesn't go up high enough to hit on the hatch latch. I actually thought about making it taller so that I could angle it where the speaker would face more towards the hatch glass, but this seems simple and the internal size seems good. Pioneer specs say between 0.65-1.25 and this is a hair over halfway between. Hopefully, sound wise it works well. LMFAO about my paint skills

SparksAI

LOL those are some mad paint skills you have. We will have to be careful when you post pictures they could be chopped and we would never know it.

Good luck on the box build, make sure to take lots of pictures through the process.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

I know the box build will go smoothly, I just hope I am picking the correct internal dimension. They give a broad recommended enclosure size. .65-1.25 thats a pretty large difference in the box building world. Now I just gotta decide whether I wanna throw a little polyfill in it or not. I left enough space on the outer dimensions for putting carpet on so I should be good there. What size speaker wire should I use for running one VC to the other VC and then to the amp. Think I can go all the way down to 8gauge, but not sure thats necessary. Anybody wanna comment on my box size vs the way it will sound with a smaller or larger box size?

squee

iTrader: (16)

Go ported, for sure. Use a box calculator (just search on Google). Insert the dimensions you know you have to use (width/depth) and then go from there. You'll probably wanna tune the box for about 54Hz. In the car, firing at the back window should be in the low 30s I do believe. As for the speaker wire, I'd go with 10 or 12 guage. I used 8 on mine, but I always go with overkill. Like I said, I wouldn't go with a Pioneer, but thats just me. I've heard many, and none sounded good. You can make em hit hard, but SQ is virtually non-existent IMO.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

Well tell me what you would go with, thats not super expensive. like $100 r under. I'm not sure what the outcome would be with a ported box box that isn't very big in size. I am prolly just gonna keep it simple this time around. And are you saying have the box directly under the hatch glass. Or just in the cubby hole with the speaker towards the glass?

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

Alpine Type R, Fosgate P3, these are a couple more I can afford.

squee

iTrader: (16)

I'm a little confused as to where your gonna put it to be honest. When people refer to the cubby hole, they're talking about on the left hand side where a stealth would go, like where the cd changer is, but a box of that size won't fit there, so I'm assuming you mean where the t-top holders are? If so, there gonna eat up ALOT of your space, and if you remove them, keep in mind the brackets are still gonna be there, which are spot welded to the floor. I drilled them out with a spot weld cutter. I would try and go ported, but for that your gonna need at least 1.25 cubic feet of air space, depending on the sub. Like I said a few post up though, I would go with a RE. The SRx is in your range, and if you can swing the extra few bucks, the SEx is even better.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

Oh **** man I got my wording mixed up. This box will fit in between the plastic pieces that you slide the t-tops into. Right in between them. The area directly under the hatch latch. Like where you would put groceries at I guess. You see what im saying? OK I will check out the RE lineup.
thanks man

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

So like the new title says. I still need some carpet, terminals, and some 8gauge wire to hook the sub up with. I can't think of anything else. Anybody know a good place to get all this at once. I dont' think I am gonna put polyfill in my box, pretty sure its gonna be big enough..


!!!!!OK here is a little update, I downloaded a instruction manual for the speaker and it says the recommended box size is .8cuft. Then it says to add box filler to get a better sound quality, its no problem to make the box smaller than I was, but should I? Hopefully somebody will give me some good advice on this. Guess if i'm gonna make it the recommended size, I might as well throw some filler in there as well. I just hope it this thing sounds decent with whatever box I build.

thanks to everybody who helped me out on this thread!