A better approach for Firebird Headlight Doors?
#21
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ellijay, GA
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is a video for reference (first 20 seconds is all you need to see):
#22
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Open-to-close, the gear only rotates 180*. That is why you hear the stripped teeth in one direction and not the other. (It doesn't fully rotate back round to the problem area.)
There are some that have had success with flipping the gear to use the other 180* of teeth, but I did not.
There are some that have had success with flipping the gear to use the other 180* of teeth, but I did not.
#23
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ellijay, GA
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Open-to-close, the gear only rotates 180*. That is why you hear the stripped teeth in one direction and not the other. (It doesn't fully rotate back round to the problem area.)
There are some that have had success with flipping the gear to use the other 180* of teeth, but I did not.
There are some that have had success with flipping the gear to use the other 180* of teeth, but I did not.
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NearHouston, TX
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Damn fine video! I wish I'd seen it when I did my replacement. Anyway, I installed a metal gear in one of mine once (and that metal gear was twice as much as the nylon one) and I epoxied it, tie wrapped it like in video, and it still exploded apart after a few weeks, so the metal gear became a paperweight. So, I bought a cheap replacement motor assy on Rockauto.com for about $70 something. The AC Delco ones are twice as much.
Here is thread for Rockauto
Pontiac
year
model
engine
body-exterior
Headlamp motor
Here is thread for Rockauto
Pontiac
year
model
engine
body-exterior
Headlamp motor
#27
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The other gear thread you bumped has the link to the Dickman gears. They use the rubber insert and stock t-bar setup. (There is no mod to the t-bar with either option.) I would expect the gears without the stock rubber t-bar insert will put more stress on the gear teeth.
#28
On The Tree
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
could a bad relay cause this too cause this too, mine comes up and down when i hit the unlock botton then when closes i hear a grinding noise for a couple seconds then stops so i pulled the fuses cause i rarely drive my car at night anyways but just curious i'm guessing wuth my luck its the gear too
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the same exact thing happen to me. It opened fine just made a grinding noise when I closed them. I ignored it for about 6 months then replaced the gear and it still did the same thing. I noticed the top half of headlight motor was cracked so I ended up just replacing the whole motor.
#31
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bringing this back up. I think I need a new drivers side motor. It doesnt go up, but the light turns on, and the wiring looks good. It also doesnt make any noise out of the ordinary.
Is the cardone motor still the best option out there? Autozone has them for 121 bucks and rock auto has them for 60 plus 5 dollars shipping, so i think ill wait for the shipping and save myself the 50 bucks unless anyone has a better option....
And also, is the brass gear still the best option?
Is the cardone motor still the best option out there? Autozone has them for 121 bucks and rock auto has them for 60 plus 5 dollars shipping, so i think ill wait for the shipping and save myself the 50 bucks unless anyone has a better option....
And also, is the brass gear still the best option?
#33
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And do you recommend the t-bar?
#34
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The new motors don't need the T-Bar. That's only for the original motors that weren't built for removing the shell/cover.
The wiring problem seems to be resolved. All the members we've talked with here who have purchased motors recently report good wiring and proper seals in the connectors.
The wiring problem seems to be resolved. All the members we've talked with here who have purchased motors recently report good wiring and proper seals in the connectors.
#35
On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh btw, yes the easy open gear cover is nice with 3 screws, but it seals about as well as a log cabin window. I could literally stick a flat head screwdriver in the gaps on mine. I ended up sealing it with ultra black so it's still easy to service. Watch the gaps on these things and seal it with something or you'll rust em solid in no time.
#36
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You sure about that? Because I bought the cardone unit and it's gear lasted a week. Returned it for another and it stripped the next day. This was after replacing the gear in my original motor with 3 aftermarket plastic ones. I gave up, bought the bronze gear and it's been good ever since.
The normal failure modes are age/wear/tear and the motor coming loose from the body. As seen in the first post of this thread and in the warnings that many metal gear providers give, the metal gears are not a silver bullet for the motor/housing problem and a replacement nylon gear is an easy/inexpensive way to solve the wear and tear problem.
If the things are properly greased, then there's no worry and no rust. As long as the grease can't get out, then there's no issue. On my motors, there were no gaps.
#37
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just replaced the drivers side headlight motor with a new cardone one and didnt replace the gear. Ill see how long it lasts. Its a PITA removing that last bolt on the motor lol
#38
On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yea - I think this proves my point. 10 plastic gears are still a whole lot less expensive than one metal gear, but.... what you are describing is not normal and is not the typical gear failure. The plastic gears didn't start disintegrating as these cars rolled off the assembly line - you have something binding up in your mechanism putting extra stress on the assembly. In your particular case, the metal gear isn't solving anything - its just masking your problem temporarily.
The normal failure modes are age/wear/tear and the motor coming loose from the body. As seen in the first post of this thread and in the warnings that many metal gear providers give, the metal gears are not a silver bullet for the motor/housing problem and a replacement nylon gear is an easy/inexpensive way to solve the wear and tear problem.
If the things are properly greased, then there's no worry and no rust. As long as the grease can't get out, then there's no issue. On my motors, there were no gaps.
The normal failure modes are age/wear/tear and the motor coming loose from the body. As seen in the first post of this thread and in the warnings that many metal gear providers give, the metal gears are not a silver bullet for the motor/housing problem and a replacement nylon gear is an easy/inexpensive way to solve the wear and tear problem.
If the things are properly greased, then there's no worry and no rust. As long as the grease can't get out, then there's no issue. On my motors, there were no gaps.
I get what you're saying, I really do. But I can assure you there's no binding in my drivers side. (Still have the factory motor on my pass side). I've double checked all hinges, bushings for play and binding. Thing is, you're assuming the cardone plastic gear is made of the same plastic and same grade that the factory gear came from. Your avg person can't tell the diff between nylon 66, 6 or 12. How do we know the cardone gear is below, the same or above the grade of the original. I dont myself, just throwing out possibilities. Besides, binding wouldnt cause this because of the way the motor works. It slams into the stop position and the dc motor increases its (resistance or something, I forget), then this sudden increase is detected and the motor is shut off. That slam shut and slam open design is brutal, but is the original design. It's asking alot of a plastic gear and frankly, cardone doesn't have a good reputation of building quality plastic parts, imho.
One more thing, gas to and from the parts store, tax, or shipping all add up to well beyond what I paid for one metal gear and you have to take that into consideration. Plus the time involved. The metal gear has proven its use over the years. Also, I bought the bronze gear, just like the original fix. But the pic in this post appears to be the anodized aluminum version. Yes, type 3 ano is tuff stuff, but what grade is the aluminum? Bronze has been used in the gear industry for over 100 yrs for a reason.
Last edited by moneypit00; 05-02-2016 at 12:28 PM.
#39
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your avg person can't tell the diff between nylon 66, 6 or 12. How do we know the cardone gear is below, the same or above the grade of the original. I dont myself, just throwing out possibilities. Besides, binding wouldnt cause this because of the way the motor works. It slams into the stop position and the dc motor increases its (resistance or something, I forget), then this sudden increase is detected and the motor is shut off. That slam shut and slam open design is brutal, but is the original design. It's asking alot of a plastic gear and frankly
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
That reminds me - I still have a spare, undamaged hardened aluminum gear if anyone wants one. It makes a nice paperweight for me now, though. (It's the most expensive paperweight I have!)
No, it hasn't. Go back to post #1 in this thread. (It even has a picture.) The metal gears are junk.
#40
On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds like a conspiracy. We must get to the bottom of this and Make America Great Again. ![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
That reminds me - I still have a spare, undamaged hardened aluminum gear if anyone wants one. It makes a nice paperweight for me now, though. (It's the most expensive paperweight I have!)
They work just fine on my car. 5 years and no issues.
No, it hasn't. Go back to post #1 in this thread. (It even has a picture.) The metal gears are junk.
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
That reminds me - I still have a spare, undamaged hardened aluminum gear if anyone wants one. It makes a nice paperweight for me now, though. (It's the most expensive paperweight I have!)
They work just fine on my car. 5 years and no issues.
No, it hasn't. Go back to post #1 in this thread. (It even has a picture.) The metal gears are junk.
OEM uses $5 plastic gears vs $50 bronze gears because they typically last past the warranty and over the course of 1 million cars that's 90 million saved (2 per car) to go towards corp earnings from 1 single part material change.
Last edited by moneypit00; 05-02-2016 at 10:15 PM.