Best way to wire one dvc sub?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
From: holding down the couch
Best way to wire one dvc sub? I'm shopping around for a new amp to power a 10" dvc sub in a stealth box. Does it make more sense to run it off a mono amp, or a larger 2ch powering each voice coil independently? Is it more a matter of preference? I'm looking at using a Alpine Type-R but am still looking at other subs as well if that matters.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
It really just depends on what impedance you want to run at. Impedance affects the amount of current an amp can push through the coils. It also has what is called a damping effect, which like a shock absorber on a spring, prevents the current from overshooting/overexciting the coil and making it sound sloppy. Higher impedance also adds stability to the amp, as it drives a load that is further from a short circuit.
I always recommend running everything at 4 ohms and if you need more power, get a bigger amp. If your DVC is a 2+2, put the coils in series and get a monoblock that will push just over the 4 Ohm RMS rating.
While it is possible to drive a DVC with two monoblocks or a two channel amp, you should feed both coils in the same cone the exact same signal. Do not feed them different L/R (red/white) inputs! You should also make every effort to make sure both amps/channels are matched exactly. You do NOT want two coils in the same cone playing different amplified signals.
Also, if you drive the coils separately, you may have to modify your enclosure to add an extra set of terminals.
I always recommend running everything at 4 ohms and if you need more power, get a bigger amp. If your DVC is a 2+2, put the coils in series and get a monoblock that will push just over the 4 Ohm RMS rating.
While it is possible to drive a DVC with two monoblocks or a two channel amp, you should feed both coils in the same cone the exact same signal. Do not feed them different L/R (red/white) inputs! You should also make every effort to make sure both amps/channels are matched exactly. You do NOT want two coils in the same cone playing different amplified signals.
Also, if you drive the coils separately, you may have to modify your enclosure to add an extra set of terminals.
Last edited by Capricio; Jul 21, 2011 at 10:53 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
From: holding down the couch
Thanks for the info! My initial plan was to run a single mono amp but since I haven't used a single dvc 2ohm sub I wanted to know the options. I guess my next question is what is the main benefit of the 2ohm model over the 4ohm dvc version? Is it mainly more sound from the higher power handling? guess I've been out of the realm a while!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Lower impedance allows you to squeeze more power out of a smaller amp... assuming the smaller amp can handle it and doesn't start smoking. Your amp will run hotter and you will have a reduced damping effect, as I mentioned before.
8 Ohm is the de-facto stability standard for home audio and 4 Ohm is standard for mobile audio. Virtually every amp can drive those impedances all day long without damage.
In general, running a 1 or 2 Ohm impedance is a cost cutting shortcut to run with a smaller amp that comes at the expense of stability, heat, and sound quality. DVCs allow you some flexibilty between impedance levels you would get from single or multiple cones. For example, if you had two DVC cones, and wanted a 4 Ohm overall load for a monoblock, you would be better off with two 4+4 cones in series/parallel because with two 2+2 cones you could only get an overall load of 2 (parallel/series) or 8 Ohms (series/series) or (God forbid) 0.5 Ohm (parallel/parallel). So, based on what you want the overall impedance to be, you buy 2+2 or 4+4 cones.
There are amps out there of high enough quality to run 2 ohm or even 1 Ohm loads consistently, like RF, JL, and others but they generally cost more.
8 Ohm is the de-facto stability standard for home audio and 4 Ohm is standard for mobile audio. Virtually every amp can drive those impedances all day long without damage.
In general, running a 1 or 2 Ohm impedance is a cost cutting shortcut to run with a smaller amp that comes at the expense of stability, heat, and sound quality. DVCs allow you some flexibilty between impedance levels you would get from single or multiple cones. For example, if you had two DVC cones, and wanted a 4 Ohm overall load for a monoblock, you would be better off with two 4+4 cones in series/parallel because with two 2+2 cones you could only get an overall load of 2 (parallel/series) or 8 Ohms (series/series) or (God forbid) 0.5 Ohm (parallel/parallel). So, based on what you want the overall impedance to be, you buy 2+2 or 4+4 cones.
There are amps out there of high enough quality to run 2 ohm or even 1 Ohm loads consistently, like RF, JL, and others but they generally cost more.
Last edited by Capricio; Jul 22, 2011 at 08:46 AM.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Different amps are made for different impedance loads. Amps for higher impedances will have higher rail voltages and lower current limits while amps meant for lower impedance will have lower rail voltages and be made to be able to drive current. Technically, higher impedance speakers are better since high voltage is more efficient than high current (hence high voltage power lines) but we only have ~13.5v of input voltage to work with in a car, and it's easier to build a lower voltage power supply in this case, so most car subwoofer setups are 1-2 ohms overall.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Where you been dragonrage? Haven't seen you in a long time.
In addition to what dragonrage said, higher current is better at masking electrical interference in environments such as cars that have a lot of electrical devices in a small area. So you'll generally see car audio using lower impedance (4 ohms or less) whereas home systems frequently use higher impedance (8 ohms or more).
In addition to what dragonrage said, higher current is better at masking electrical interference in environments such as cars that have a lot of electrical devices in a small area. So you'll generally see car audio using lower impedance (4 ohms or less) whereas home systems frequently use higher impedance (8 ohms or more).
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
From: holding down the couch
Okay I think I got it, now what about the amplifier? If I go with the dvc 4ohm Type-R that's rated 600rms do I need a mono amp rated at that on a 4ohm or 2ohm stage?
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Yeah I'm confused. If you want to run a 2 Ohm overall load, get the DVC 4+4 and put the coils in parallel. If you want to run a 4 Ohm overall load, get the DVC 2+2 and run the coils in series.
Speaking only for myself, I've had trouble with 2 Ohm loads and don't trust many amps to reliably handle them, especially if you're going to be cranking out high volume levels for long periods of time. High current means the components, wiring, and PCBs inside the amp all need to be of a beefier nature and by necessity run hotter.
Speaking only for myself, I've had trouble with 2 Ohm loads and don't trust many amps to reliably handle them, especially if you're going to be cranking out high volume levels for long periods of time. High current means the components, wiring, and PCBs inside the amp all need to be of a beefier nature and by necessity run hotter.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
From: holding down the couch
I got a little confused too mainly because of all the wiring options. I pretty much have it figured out now though, it was the series/parallel thing that was throwing me. I wasn't set on running it a specific way but am looking at what makes the most sense efficiently. Thanks for helping me understand!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
When I said "series/parallel" or "parallel/series", I'm referring to situations with multiple DVC cones. The first word refers to the coils on each one, and second word refers to the cones relative to each other. "coils/cones"
Sorry I should have explained that better.
My recommendation: Get a 2+2 cone, run the coils in series (4 Ohm load).
For an amp, you really need to spell out how much you're willing to spend. On the low side, an Audiopipe AP15001D can be had for around $160.
http://audiopipe.com/products/amplif...ap-15001d.html
Moving up a notch, a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D runs about $230:
http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html
It's a good value for the money, delivers rated power and is reliable even at lower impedances. If you can afford to step up to a JL or RF, go for it. Be prepared to spend $300+
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=606
Sorry I should have explained that better.
My recommendation: Get a 2+2 cone, run the coils in series (4 Ohm load).
For an amp, you really need to spell out how much you're willing to spend. On the low side, an Audiopipe AP15001D can be had for around $160.
http://audiopipe.com/products/amplif...ap-15001d.html
Moving up a notch, a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D runs about $230:
http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html
It's a good value for the money, delivers rated power and is reliable even at lower impedances. If you can afford to step up to a JL or RF, go for it. Be prepared to spend $300+
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=606
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
From: holding down the couch
When I said "series/parallel" or "parallel/series", I'm referring to situations with multiple DVC cones. The first word refers to the coils on each one, and second word refers to the cones relative to each other. "coils/cones"
Sorry I should have explained that better.
My recommendation: Get a 2+2 cone, run the coils in series (4 Ohm load).
For an amp, you really need to spell out how much you're willing to spend. On the low side, an Audiopipe AP15001D can be had for around $160.
http://audiopipe.com/products/amplif...ap-15001d.html
Thanks for the links on the amps too I will check them out.
Moving up a notch, a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D runs about $230:
http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html
It's a good value for the money, delivers rated power and is reliable even at lower impedances. If you can afford to step up to a JL or RF, go for it. Be prepared to spend $300+
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=606
Sorry I should have explained that better.
My recommendation: Get a 2+2 cone, run the coils in series (4 Ohm load).
For an amp, you really need to spell out how much you're willing to spend. On the low side, an Audiopipe AP15001D can be had for around $160.
http://audiopipe.com/products/amplif...ap-15001d.html
Thanks for the links on the amps too I will check them out.
Moving up a notch, a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D runs about $230:
http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html
It's a good value for the money, delivers rated power and is reliable even at lower impedances. If you can afford to step up to a JL or RF, go for it. Be prepared to spend $300+
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=606
Yeah it took me a while to grasp it all. Best part is I've been running two 12" JBL dvc for quite a few years off a 2ch amp and it's been so long since I've actually messed with them I forgot what the hell I was doing
