Do I even need rear speakers?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,248
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From: Kingwood, Texas
Do I even need rear speakers? My stock system has taken a crap as expected and I am going to change all of it out.
I want a clean sounding system. It does not have to wake up the neighbors. I just want quality.
I have read on here a time or two that rear speakers are just fill. Are the even necessary?
I don't want to drill holes in my door panels or a pillar so I am leaning toward coaxial speakers.
Can I get good sound with high end door speakers and a sub or do I need to put some coaxials in the sail panels too?
There is alot of JL Audio stuff below. Please don't just bash JL with no follow up. Let me know what sounds as good that is out there. I had a vette with all JL stuff and it sounded better than anything that I have ever heard.
This is what I am looking at...
Head unit:
Alpine CDE-123
Amp:
JL Audio X series or Slash (depending on how many speakers)
75watts per channel. 150 or more for sub
Speakers:
JL Audio C5-650x 1 or 2 pair.
10" JL sub.
I want a clean sounding system. It does not have to wake up the neighbors. I just want quality.
I have read on here a time or two that rear speakers are just fill. Are the even necessary?
I don't want to drill holes in my door panels or a pillar so I am leaning toward coaxial speakers.
Can I get good sound with high end door speakers and a sub or do I need to put some coaxials in the sail panels too?
There is alot of JL Audio stuff below. Please don't just bash JL with no follow up. Let me know what sounds as good that is out there. I had a vette with all JL stuff and it sounded better than anything that I have ever heard.
This is what I am looking at...
Head unit:
Alpine CDE-123
Amp:
JL Audio X series or Slash (depending on how many speakers)
75watts per channel. 150 or more for sub
Speakers:
JL Audio C5-650x 1 or 2 pair.
10" JL sub.
People have said they are just fill, personally I like having all the speakers so I have 4 Alpine coax's, 2 in the doors, and 2 in the sails, then I have just some little speakers in the hatch. The Alpines run off of a 4 channel amp and the hatch speakers are still hooked in to factory wiring. Then I have a 10" sub sitting in the drivers side cubby hole, gotta do some modifications to the box and such since I can't use my t-top holder, thinking of going for a subthump box and upgrading my subs and amp.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
I don't expect to use them when I upgrade my sound system. The previous owner was nice enough to replace the factory speakers with Kickers but those may get sold for some better front/rear seat-speakers. They'd get drowned out back there anyway with my (planned) 2 10" subs on the deck.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Leave the rear speakers out. Not only do they do no good, unless you have tuned your system considerably, they will likely HURT your sound by causing reflections and phase issues. Do not use stock rear speakers, do not use Alpine speakers in the rear, do not use $500 Focals in the rear. Leave them out. The only speakers F-bodies need are the fronts and a subwoofer. Sail panel speakers are optional, but I do not recommend sail panel subwoofers with a 10/12" sub in the back. Though I'm not nearly as against them as I am against the hatch speakers. The higher the frequency, the worse the effect. It's not nearly as bad with the sail panel woofers.
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My stock system has taken a crap as expected and I am going to change all of it out.
I want a clean sounding system. It does not have to wake up the neighbors. I just want quality.
I have read on here a time or two that rear speakers are just fill. Are the even necessary?
I don't want to drill holes in my door panels or a pillar so I am leaning toward coaxial speakers.
Can I get good sound with high end door speakers and a sub or do I need to put some coaxials in the sail panels too?
There is alot of JL Audio stuff below. Please don't just bash JL with no follow up. Let me know what sounds as good that is out there. I had a vette with all JL stuff and it sounded better than anything that I have ever heard.
This is what I am looking at...
Head unit:
Alpine CDE-123
Amp:
JL Audio X series or Slash (depending on how many speakers)
75watts per channel. 150 or more for sub
Speakers:
JL Audio C5-650x 1 or 2 pair.
10" JL sub.
I want a clean sounding system. It does not have to wake up the neighbors. I just want quality.
I have read on here a time or two that rear speakers are just fill. Are the even necessary?
I don't want to drill holes in my door panels or a pillar so I am leaning toward coaxial speakers.
Can I get good sound with high end door speakers and a sub or do I need to put some coaxials in the sail panels too?
There is alot of JL Audio stuff below. Please don't just bash JL with no follow up. Let me know what sounds as good that is out there. I had a vette with all JL stuff and it sounded better than anything that I have ever heard.
This is what I am looking at...
Head unit:
Alpine CDE-123
Amp:
JL Audio X series or Slash (depending on how many speakers)
75watts per channel. 150 or more for sub
Speakers:
JL Audio C5-650x 1 or 2 pair.
10" JL sub.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
I recommend just door speakers (with tweeter pods for the tweeters - they seriously help a LOT over the stock location) with a single 10"/12" sub in the back. If you have people sit in the back seats and want them to have music then add coaxes back there, preferably with a 10kHz lowpass filter - you don't want too much treble coming from the rear as it will cause reflections that are very difficult to control.
Also make sure to use something rigid to seal off the large holes in the front doors - Secondskin Alphadamp is a decent choice because it is CLD with a thicker aluminum layer than any other - but fiberglass would be even better (like a removable fiberglass cover(s)). This will improve your bass response from the front speakers by 3-6dB which is equivalent of running 2-4x the power, all achieved only through the efficiency gains caused by sealing the door. You will get better bass response at any given volume, and more total output capability.
As for JL, their gear is pretty good but I find it way overpriced. I pretty much never recommend it for that reason. If you want to use JL, you can, but if you give a budget, I can give alternate recommendations. Of course, it's all subjective. And personally, I HATE Infinity speakers. HATE.
Also make sure to use something rigid to seal off the large holes in the front doors - Secondskin Alphadamp is a decent choice because it is CLD with a thicker aluminum layer than any other - but fiberglass would be even better (like a removable fiberglass cover(s)). This will improve your bass response from the front speakers by 3-6dB which is equivalent of running 2-4x the power, all achieved only through the efficiency gains caused by sealing the door. You will get better bass response at any given volume, and more total output capability.
As for JL, their gear is pretty good but I find it way overpriced. I pretty much never recommend it for that reason. If you want to use JL, you can, but if you give a budget, I can give alternate recommendations. Of course, it's all subjective. And personally, I HATE Infinity speakers. HATE.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Kingwood, Texas
Thanks dragonrage. Here is what I plan on. Goal=Sound quality. Budget <$2000. Your suggestions on alternate equipment is appreciated. Of course..if I can get the quality of what is listed below for less, then I would go that route.
Head Unit Alipine 123 $200
Amp JLA Slash 300/4v2 $350
Door Speakers JLA C5-650 $300
Sub Speaker JLA 10W3v3-4 $170
Amp rack Kees $80
Sub box Kees $120
Secondskin Alphadamp $150
Tweeter pods 6LE designs (Why do this cost so much?) $175
Steering wheel Cable Crutchfield $10
Harness Crutchfield $10
Antenna Crutchfield $10
Speaker Cable Monster XLN16S-50SB $20
Power kit Monster MPC P300 BAP500 $50
RCA -3 (1 extra) Monster MPC I302 2C-5M $60
Total $1705
Head Unit Alipine 123 $200
Amp JLA Slash 300/4v2 $350
Door Speakers JLA C5-650 $300
Sub Speaker JLA 10W3v3-4 $170
Amp rack Kees $80
Sub box Kees $120
Secondskin Alphadamp $150
Tweeter pods 6LE designs (Why do this cost so much?) $175
Steering wheel Cable Crutchfield $10
Harness Crutchfield $10
Antenna Crutchfield $10
Speaker Cable Monster XLN16S-50SB $20
Power kit Monster MPC P300 BAP500 $50
RCA -3 (1 extra) Monster MPC I302 2C-5M $60
Total $1705
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime R600-4D or Precision Power Phantom P900.4, ~$100 saved and more efficient
Door speakers are very subjective. For that price, I would personally go Focal or Rainbow, but I can't promise that you will like those more than the JL. I would probably choose Rainbow SLC 265 Kicks, personally. You can do the same or go with that JL... or Focal or DLS or HAT or any of many good brands. Personally, I don't even consider JL for speakers, though.
For a sub, 10w3v3 is okay, but I would either get a TC Sounds Epic 10 for a few bucks less or a Peerless XXLS for a little more. Or there's the CDT QES-1020 which is inexpensive from CDT's refurbished store on their site, and I have the 12" version of that and like it. All 3 will do well in a small sealed box i.e. that stealthbox.
That wire is really expensive. Check out Knukonceptz for wire.
Tweeter pods are expensive due to economies of scale.
Overall a good build as-is, even if not exactly what I would buy.
Door speakers are very subjective. For that price, I would personally go Focal or Rainbow, but I can't promise that you will like those more than the JL. I would probably choose Rainbow SLC 265 Kicks, personally. You can do the same or go with that JL... or Focal or DLS or HAT or any of many good brands. Personally, I don't even consider JL for speakers, though.
For a sub, 10w3v3 is okay, but I would either get a TC Sounds Epic 10 for a few bucks less or a Peerless XXLS for a little more. Or there's the CDT QES-1020 which is inexpensive from CDT's refurbished store on their site, and I have the 12" version of that and like it. All 3 will do well in a small sealed box i.e. that stealthbox.
That wire is really expensive. Check out Knukonceptz for wire.
Tweeter pods are expensive due to economies of scale.
Overall a good build as-is, even if not exactly what I would buy.
Yes, it provides a more full sound IMO. I have Alpine Type X up front and Type R coaxials in the back (with the stock hatch speakers just because) and it sounds good...will be better when I get an amp for them.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Kingwood, Texas
Thanks for the input. I will do some research and maybe even sneak into a car toys store and try to compare those. I know it will not sound the same as in my car.
i have the tr series in my car (fronts and sail panels) and love them. when i first got them, they barely had any bass but the quality of the sound was pretty good. im still running the stock speakers in the hatch area area and that seems like its the place that most of the sound comes from. i have 2 12w3s in the trunk also.
the kee box seems like it will be fine just because jl uses the 10w3 in their stealthbox and i think they are both the same dimensions
the kee box seems like it will be fine just because jl uses the 10w3 in their stealthbox and i think they are both the same dimensions
@ Dragonrage - Say if I were to add a new 4 channel amp... How do you think it would sound if I turned the sail speakers into full range speakers (rear output from new amp) with new wires? The front output would be hooked up to door speakers.
Thanks dragonrage. Here is what I plan on. Goal=Sound quality. Budget <$2000. Your suggestions on alternate equipment is appreciated. Of course..if I can get the quality of what is listed below for less, then I would go that route.
Head Unit Alipine 123 $200
Amp JLA Slash 300/4v2 $350
Door Speakers JLA C5-650 $300
Sub Speaker JLA 10W3v3-4 $170
Amp rack Kees $80
Sub box Kees $120
Secondskin Alphadamp $150
Tweeter pods 6LE designs (Why do this cost so much?) $175
Steering wheel Cable Crutchfield $10
Harness Crutchfield $10
Antenna Crutchfield $10
Speaker Cable Monster XLN16S-50SB $20
Power kit Monster MPC P300 BAP500 $50
RCA -3 (1 extra) Monster MPC I302 2C-5M $60
Total $1705
Head Unit Alipine 123 $200
Amp JLA Slash 300/4v2 $350
Door Speakers JLA C5-650 $300
Sub Speaker JLA 10W3v3-4 $170
Amp rack Kees $80
Sub box Kees $120
Secondskin Alphadamp $150
Tweeter pods 6LE designs (Why do this cost so much?) $175
Steering wheel Cable Crutchfield $10
Harness Crutchfield $10
Antenna Crutchfield $10
Speaker Cable Monster XLN16S-50SB $20
Power kit Monster MPC P300 BAP500 $50
RCA -3 (1 extra) Monster MPC I302 2C-5M $60
Total $1705