wowsers

iTrader: (7)

i got a viper 3203 alarm that im going to put in my s10 and im looking for a tech manual or something for it. i havent ever done an alarm install so im trying to do the research before i put it in in a week or two. i have the truck wiring diagram but im confused with some of the alarm side of it.

on the main harness im confused with two of the wires. One of them is the black/white flex relay and the other is the white/brown parking light isolation wire. i dont think i need either but i wanted to make sure.

and i know a lot of people say take it to a professional but a "professional" messed up the viper alarm in my camaro...so id rather learn myself.

thanks

wowsers

iTrader: (7)

OK, where are the gurus at? This is what ive come up with for the install.

Viper 3203 = 2003 S10 ZR2
Main Harness (12 pin)

h1/1 red/white - trunk release = not used
h1/2 red - (+)12vdc constant = red
h1/3 brown - (+) siren = siren feed
h1/4 white/brown - parking light iso = not used?
h1/5 black - ground = ground
h1/6 violet - (+) door trigger = not used
h1/7 blue - trunk pin = not used
h1/8 green - (-) door trigger = tan and orange with diode isolate
h1/9 black/white - flex relay = not used?
h1/10 white/blue - 200ma aux 1 = not used
h1/11 white - parking light output = brown
h1/12 orange - ground when armed output = not used


Door Lock Harness (8 pin)

h2/1 violet - unlock #87 normally open (input) = 12 vdc constant?
h2/2 Blu/Blk - unlock (output) = white
h2/3 Brwn/Blk - unlock #87a normally closed = not used
h2/4 violet/blk - lock #87 normally open (input) = connected to h2/1
h2/5 grn/blk - lock (output) = l blue
h2/6 white/blk - lock #87a normally closed = not used
h2/7 white/violet - flex relay #87 normally open (input)= not used
h2/8 white/brwn - flex relay #87a normally closed = not used

Auxillary Harness (H3) 7-pin connector

h3/1 ornge/blk - aux 4 output = not used
h3/2 white/blk - aux 3 output = not used
h3/3 violet/blk - aux 2 output = not used
h3/4 l green/blk - factory alarm disarm output = l green
h3/5 yellow - (+) ignition input = pink and white?
h3/6 brown - (-) horn honk output = (-) black
h3/7 grey - hood pin switch = not used

yellows are the ones im unsure about. do i need to use the ignition input if im not using a remote start? bulldogsecurity.com says i need to hook up ignition wires 1 and 2 or ill get a check engine light. feedback would be nice because i spent an hour typing this up.

drkumarmp

Power Door Lock Diagrams

drkumarmp

H1/4 WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay-

This wire connects to pin 87a of the onboard light flash relay. It is used whenever light switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary. If the vehicle has a multiplex circuit that needs the light switch isolated, you can remove the onboard light flash fuse and replace it with the specified resistor (paying attention to the polarity selection).

H1/9 BLACK/WHITE high current output from on-board domelight supervision relay
Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive circuits up to 20 amperes. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the input wire H2/7 White/Violet in the Relay Harness.
NOTE: If the input wire H2/7 is not connected, there will be no output on this wire.

H2/1 – H2/6 power door lock wires
The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems drawing 30 amps or less.
Identifying the Door Lock Switch System
The easiest way to determine what type of door lock system you are working with is to remove the master locking switch itself, which is usually on the driver's door or on the center console. Once you have determined which type of factory door lock circuit you are working with and the color codes of the switch wires to be used, you can usually simplify the installation by locating the same wires in the vehicle's kick panel.
NOTE: The wires should be re-tested at this point to be sure they work the same at the kick panel. If no central locking switch is found, the installation may require a door lock actuator.
There are eight different types of common door lock circuits (some vehicles use more unusual systems):
Type A - Three wire (+) 12 volt pulse controlling factory lock relays.
Type B - Three wire (-) ground pulse controlling factory lock relays.
Type C - Directly-wired (no factory relays) reversing-polarity switches.
Type D - Aftermarket actuator-driven systems. These include slave systems without an actuator in the driver's door but with factory actuators in all the other doors, since these can be controlled with the installation of an aftermarket actuator.
Type E - Electronically-activated vacuum systems (post-1985 Mercedes-Benz and Audi). This requires special programming of the system.
NOTE: This is only possible with systems with selectable duration lock pulses (three second minimum required).
Type F - This is a one wire system. Ground pulse to unlock and break open to lock.
Type G - This is a one wire positive multiplex system. Sending a (+) 12 volt signal through resistors will activate lock and unlock.
Type H - This is a one wire negative multiplex system. Sending a negative signal through resistors will activate lock and unlock.

Door Lock Systems Information This is a general information guide; For more detailed instructions on wiring vehicles door lock systems, including information on multiplex systems, refer to the Door Lock Wiring Guide

Checkout the Diagram for this in the previous post


H3/4 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT

This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start is activated , chan¬nel 2 is activated (programmable on/off) or when the doors are unlocked with the remote. This can be used to pulse the disarm wire of the vehicle’s factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to the disarm wire as shown in the following diagrams.


H3/5 YELLOW (+) ignition input
Connect this wire to the (+) 12 volts ignition wire. This wire must show (+) 12 volts with the key in RUN position and during cranking. Take great care to ensure that this wire is not shorted to the vehicle's chassis at any point.

Mako77

I hate that! Take it an authorized dealer and you end up with hacked wires and poor connections.