Battery relocation question
#1
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I'm wanting to do this but I have a question. I've researched this a bit but I'm wondering if it's possible to just take the factory Pos and Neg wires and connect them to the new wire and run it back to the rear of the car and just connect them to the pos and neg terminals on the battery?
If not......why not? I pretty sure it's a too long a distance but I just wanted an answer from the experts. Thanks
If not......why not? I pretty sure it's a too long a distance but I just wanted an answer from the experts. Thanks
#2
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I'd get a power distribution block to mount up front and run 1/0 awg power/grd cables (to minimize power lose on the long run to the back). I'd also go with a 1/0 awg cable from the alt., and starter to distribution block. You might also consider upgrading the negative/grd cables up front to.
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I'd get a power distribution block to mount up front and run 1/0 awg power/grd cables (to minimize power lose on the long run to the back). I'd also go with a 1/0 awg cable from the alt., and starter to distribution block. You might also consider upgrading the negative/grd cables up front to.
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I'd get a Stinger#SPD5204 (1/0 ga. in/out, uses ANL fuses) you can get them for about $30 each. I'd put one by the battery, and one under the hood and get some 200amp fuses. Another option is circuit breakers, get two Stinger #SGP90200(200 amp) then theres no fuses needed.
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I'd get a Stinger#SPD5204 (1/0 ga. in/out, uses ANL fuses) you can get them for about $30 each. I'd put one by the battery, and one under the hood and get some 200amp fuses. Another option is circuit breakers, get two Stinger #SGP90200(200 amp) then theres no fuses needed.
#6
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The 200amp fuses/breakers are to protect the power cable, you can go smaller if you know the starter won't pop the breaker on start up. I'm not sure exactly what the amp draw is from the starter, bu I'd still go with at least 150amp breakers.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 06-18-2012 at 12:21 AM.
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excellent info....thanks again.