Problem Bypassing Monsoon '02 Camaro
Problem Bypassing Monsoon '02 Camaro I have alpine s types front and back, with the stock paper speakers in the hatch. The hatch and the front sounded fine, but I was only getting lows to the rear s types. I assumed that this was because they were configured at the amp to be subwoofers.
I bypassed the amp for those rear speakers, so that they would be wired to be regular speakers, not subs.
by doing:
E4 + F14
E5 + F13
E6 + F16
E7 + F15
I spliced them correctly and plugged the harness back into the amp and had no sound whatsoever. If anyone can help me out here it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I bypassed the amp for those rear speakers, so that they would be wired to be regular speakers, not subs.
by doing:
E4 + F14
E5 + F13
E6 + F16
E7 + F15
I spliced them correctly and plugged the harness back into the amp and had no sound whatsoever. If anyone can help me out here it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That's because you patched them that way. You cut the four channels of input to the amp so there is no output except to the speakers you patched into - in this case the rear speakers (i.e. the hatch speakers).
There is no correct way to do what you are attempting. In theory, you would leave the four input wires (E4 through E7) connected to the amp and splice into them with the sail panel sub output wires (F4, F5, F10, F11). However, that won't work properly because you would be running only 2-ohms net to the head unit (two 4-ohm loads in parallel) and the factory head unit (as well as most aftermarket head units) is not 2-ohm stable. You risk burning up your head unit.
The best thing to do is ditch the coaxial speakers and get the correct 6.5" subs for the sail panels. Besides, you really shouldn't have full range speakers behind you except for rear fill and that's what the hatch speakers provide.
The other option is to disconnect the hatch speakers and use their full-range signal to power the sail panels.
There is no correct way to do what you are attempting. In theory, you would leave the four input wires (E4 through E7) connected to the amp and splice into them with the sail panel sub output wires (F4, F5, F10, F11). However, that won't work properly because you would be running only 2-ohms net to the head unit (two 4-ohm loads in parallel) and the factory head unit (as well as most aftermarket head units) is not 2-ohm stable. You risk burning up your head unit.
The best thing to do is ditch the coaxial speakers and get the correct 6.5" subs for the sail panels. Besides, you really shouldn't have full range speakers behind you except for rear fill and that's what the hatch speakers provide.
The other option is to disconnect the hatch speakers and use their full-range signal to power the sail panels.
Ok so that makes sense. What I did now is I bypassed the front speakers also.
So..
E1 + F6
F1 + F7
E2 + E16
E3 + E15
Along with the
E4 + F14
E5 + F13
E6 + F16
E7 + F15
that i did origionaly
Now I have front door sound and rear hatch. Nothing from the sails. So what would I have to do to get the sails working now?
So..
E1 + F6
F1 + F7
E2 + E16
E3 + E15
Along with the
E4 + F14
E5 + F13
E6 + F16
E7 + F15
that i did origionaly
Now I have front door sound and rear hatch. Nothing from the sails. So what would I have to do to get the sails working now?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Why would you do that? You're doing all that just because you bought the wrong speakers?
Obviously, you didn't really read the other thread you posted in. Otherwise you would understand why it is not a good idea to bypass the Monsoon amp ("foolish" is the term used). You lose far more than you gain because you give up amplification (i.e. volume) for no good reason. You should not remove the amp unless you replace it with an aftermarket one because you're just running off the head unit and giving up power.
Obviously, you didn't really read the other thread you posted in. Otherwise you would understand why it is not a good idea to bypass the Monsoon amp ("foolish" is the term used). You lose far more than you gain because you give up amplification (i.e. volume) for no good reason. You should not remove the amp unless you replace it with an aftermarket one because you're just running off the head unit and giving up power.
The previous owner of the car installed the speakers, I'm just cleaning up his mess. The sail "subs" had bearly any sound comming out of them, so I decided to bypass the amp to just use them as full range. Im willing to let that go.
Now, I have the front speakers bypassed and they sound much better through just the HU I installed. The hatch speakers are working and I'm pretty sure they're still through the amp.
So my only thing left to get done is to get the sail subs working again. With the current wiring I did, I thought they bypassed the amp but I guess that's not the case as I have no sound from them. So, now that I will be bypassing the amp if necessary (although it is "foolish") for the sail speakers, what do I have to do? Im fine with having them stil act as subs. Just as long as I get some sound out of them.
Now, I have the front speakers bypassed and they sound much better through just the HU I installed. The hatch speakers are working and I'm pretty sure they're still through the amp.
So my only thing left to get done is to get the sail subs working again. With the current wiring I did, I thought they bypassed the amp but I guess that's not the case as I have no sound from them. So, now that I will be bypassing the amp if necessary (although it is "foolish") for the sail speakers, what do I have to do? Im fine with having them stil act as subs. Just as long as I get some sound out of them.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
What you are doing does not qualify as cleaning up the mess as you continue to further butcher the factory wiring. Your best option is to put the wiring back the way it was from the factory. That will give you the proper amplified signal for the door and hatch speakers and restore the low frequency signal to the sail panels.
If the door speakers don't sound right then switch the wire pairs because you probably have them connected to the tweeter wires (the doors came with components rather than coaxials from the factory). The wires for the door mids will give you full-range signal.
If you don't want to install subs in the sail panels then disconnect the hatch speakers and use their wiring to power your coaxials in the sail panels. You don't need four full-range speakers behind you.
The hatch speakers are not currently working through the amp - you bypassed them remember? (F13 through F16 are the hatch speaker connections)
If the door speakers don't sound right then switch the wire pairs because you probably have them connected to the tweeter wires (the doors came with components rather than coaxials from the factory). The wires for the door mids will give you full-range signal.
If you don't want to install subs in the sail panels then disconnect the hatch speakers and use their wiring to power your coaxials in the sail panels. You don't need four full-range speakers behind you.
The hatch speakers are not currently working through the amp - you bypassed them remember? (F13 through F16 are the hatch speaker connections)
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Ok. Well the door speakers and the hatch are louder and clearer now that they are bypassed, so I'm going to keep them as they are.
Problem is now im confused. I thought I bypassed the front and the sail, but your saying I did the sail and the hatch. So ill take a look at the diagram and try to sort out what I did.
Problem is now im confused. I thought I bypassed the front and the sail, but your saying I did the sail and the hatch. So ill take a look at the diagram and try to sort out what I did.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, you said you had bypassed the sail panel speakers but the connections you listed were for the hatch speakers and the fact that they were working confirmed that.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I'm assuming that your bypass involved removing the specified wires from the amp connector and then splicing them together. When you removed the wires in E4 through E7, you no longer have any rear input going to the amp so the sail panels don't get any output signal.
Man, I'm sorry but this is pretty basic electrical. Perhaps you should put down the wire cutters and have this fixed by a professional.
Man, I'm sorry but this is pretty basic electrical. Perhaps you should put down the wire cutters and have this fixed by a professional.
