chadnol10

iTrader: (41)

I want everything out of this car and i'm a loser so I have the time to do it. I want to run just 4 speakers(2 in front and 2 in sail panels). Nothing fancy, but i have an aftermarket headunit so i want to do away with the 4 ohm factory crap. anyone have a wiring diagram for me?? I just want to run speakers directly to my kenwood head unit. I'd also like to remove all the security equipment and anything else that isn't necessary. I will probably also do the window motor mod at the same time.

Any diagrams or advice would be much appreciated.

TyCZ28

just pul up your trim and run NEW 16 gauge wire to both doors and to the sails up to your head unit.. kinda idiot proof. i never trust factory wires anyways no diagrams needed just run from were it says on the radio t what part of the car it pertains to

chadnol10

iTrader: (41)

ok but does anyone have a diagram to remove the vats and where they are all located???

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You can't remove VATS without giving up most body functions because it is contained in the Body Control Module. The BCM controls keyless entry, alarm, door locks, hatch release, warning chimes, dash indicator lights, radio and window power and courtesy lights as well as VATS. Even if you want to give up all those other things, removing the BCM to get rid of VATS then involves rewiring the starter relay and programming the PCM to ignore the lack of a fuel enable signal.

chadnol10

iTrader: (41)

thanks. that solves that problem then. i won't be taking them out.

omgitsmikeyc

Diagram retracted, apparently it was miss information.
I would personally find the factory amp, use inline wire connectors and connect the input to the output of the appropriate speaker to bypass amp, using a double a battery positive to negative can help you if you mix the wires, and then when you connect the wire harness adapter to the head unit, it should be smooth sailing. Maybe 1/2 hour of work at best.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The OP wants to simply run four full-range speakers (doors and sail panels) directly off the head unit and eliminate the Monsoon equipment. That diagram includes two amps, numerous RCA connections and splitters, and a PC... none of which have anything to do with installing a simple head unit and four speakers.

OP, I would recommend leaving the Monsoon amp in place, installing a decent aftermarket HU and replacing the speakers with one of the kits from our sponsors Kee Audio or Double D Mods. You will end up with better sound from the door components and sail panel subs than you would with four coaxial speakers and the installation is very simple. Despite being small and not hugely powerful, the Monsoon amp is pretty good for what it does - certainly better than the output from a head unit alone.

If you really feel it's necessary to get rid of the Monsoon amp for some reason then go with TyCZ28's suggestion to run new wire from the HU to the speakers. Don't do a ghetto fix by patching the factory amp connector.

chadnol10

iTrader: (41)

Whitebird thanks for your help. I'm not sure why that diagram was posted in this forum but whatever. Regardless a few years ago i removed the factory amp. However i'm sure i can get another one cheap. So your telling me the sponsors have a kit to wire this up the way i want it with the factory amp in place????

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, both Kee Audio and Double D Mods have speaker packages that are selected to work well with the Monsoon configuration. That includes 6.5" component sets for the doors and 6.5" dual voice coil subs for the sail panels. All you need is an aftermarket head unit (they can help with that as well), a mount kit (either single DIN or double DIN depending on the HU you select), a wiring harness adapter ($10) and an antenna adapter ($10). Everything can be installed and connected without any changes to the factory wiring. And unless you go with a double DIN (which requires a modified trim bezel), no modifications are necessary to mount anything either.