CDT Package from Kee Audio
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From: Westminster, MD
CDT Package from Kee Audio I have the level 2 package from Kee Audio for my Firebird sitting in my room waiting to be installed when the weather warms up a little bit. I've never done a speaker/head unit install before so I've been reading through threads on here. My speaker package came with the wiring harness adapter. Does this mean that I won't have to cut/solder anything or is that adapter only for the head unit? I don't like the idea of cutting any wires and I have never soldered before so I'm a little uneasy about screwing it up. I want to make sure anything I do to the car can be reversed so that I can revert it back to factory form if I ever want/have to. Also, from what I've read online it looks some or all of the speakers are riveted and need drilled out and then screwed into place? Or is that only the case on the hatch speakers?
Are hatch speakers even worth replacing with the CDT 4" ones or should I keep the stockers in there and only switch the door and sails with the CDT units?
I'm using the factory Monsoon amp
Are hatch speakers even worth replacing with the CDT 4" ones or should I keep the stockers in there and only switch the door and sails with the CDT units?
I'm using the factory Monsoon amp
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You can can use red butt connectors to crimp your harness together. Soldering would be better but crimping is fine. The harness is only for the HU. It is just so you can seamlessly plug the proprietary HU connector for whatever brand you bought into the GM proprietary connector. You can do this assembly in your house, at your leisure, just remove the HU half of the harness from the HU box.
Rivets are only on the hatch speakers. You can remove the outer plastic assembly and bring it to your bench and drill them out. The aluminum is soft and the rivets come out off easily. You can replace the rivets with speed nuts and self tapping screws, probably included with your speakers.
The door speakers are mounted in a little plastic housing. You can take the whole housing out and also work with it on a bench. Again, soldering is ideal but optional. Butt connectors are always a viable alternative to soldering.
Rivets are only on the hatch speakers. You can remove the outer plastic assembly and bring it to your bench and drill them out. The aluminum is soft and the rivets come out off easily. You can replace the rivets with speed nuts and self tapping screws, probably included with your speakers.
The door speakers are mounted in a little plastic housing. You can take the whole housing out and also work with it on a bench. Again, soldering is ideal but optional. Butt connectors are always a viable alternative to soldering.
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From: Westminster, MD
Thanks that helps a lot
A buddy of mine said he would help, he said when he did the sound system in his Buick he just used a lighter and electrical tape as a solder alternative and he advised that I do it that way. Is that a common route to take?
Would you recommend switching out the stock hatch speakers for the CDT's or keep them as they are?
A buddy of mine said he would help, he said when he did the sound system in his Buick he just used a lighter and electrical tape as a solder alternative and he advised that I do it that way. Is that a common route to take?
Would you recommend switching out the stock hatch speakers for the CDT's or keep them as they are?
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You can keep your buddy if you want... but keep him away from doing anything electrical on your car. Butt connectors are not the preferred method but they are MUCH better than your buddy's method of heated electrical tape. And even if he really meant heat shrink tubing rather than electrical tape, it should not be used without solder. You can buy a kit of crimp connectors including butt connectors and a crimping tool for under $20 (Amazon has a nice kit for $12.99).
There is no real reason to replace the hatch speakers unless they are blown. They are for rear fill only so they don't need a lot of power handling capability. If they work and you don't want to drill them out then you can leave them and you'll never really notice the difference.
You should cut off the connectors from your factory door speakers and wire them to the replacement speakers. That way they will plug in to the factory wiring much like the harness adapter for the head unit.
There is no real reason to replace the hatch speakers unless they are blown. They are for rear fill only so they don't need a lot of power handling capability. If they work and you don't want to drill them out then you can leave them and you'll never really notice the difference.
You should cut off the connectors from your factory door speakers and wire them to the replacement speakers. That way they will plug in to the factory wiring much like the harness adapter for the head unit.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
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From: Westminster, MD
You can keep your buddy if you want... but keep him away from doing anything electrical on your car. Butt connectors are not the preferred method but they are MUCH better than your buddy's method of heated electrical tape. And even if he really meant heat shrink tubing rather than electrical tape, it should not be used without solder. You can buy a kit of crimp connectors including butt connectors and a crimping tool for under $20 (Amazon has a nice kit for $12.99).
There is no real reason to replace the hatch speakers unless they are blown. They are for rear fill only so they don't need a lot of power handling capability. If they work and you don't want to drill them out then you can leave them and you'll never really notice the difference.
You should cut off the connectors from your factory door speakers and wire them to the replacement speakers. That way they will plug in to the factory wiring much like the harness adapter for the head unit.
There is no real reason to replace the hatch speakers unless they are blown. They are for rear fill only so they don't need a lot of power handling capability. If they work and you don't want to drill them out then you can leave them and you'll never really notice the difference.
You should cut off the connectors from your factory door speakers and wire them to the replacement speakers. That way they will plug in to the factory wiring much like the harness adapter for the head unit.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There is no solder involved unless you use it during installation. Factory connectors are not soldered. Besides, reflowing solder is done properly with a soldering iron not a cigarette lighter. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
