Wiring/electronics is definitely not my strong suit. I can do basics only. One of the projects I really want to do it the passenger window express down mod, like what bfranker has on his site (here). I've obtained a complete interior harness with the factory module and whatnot, but here's the kicker - I want this to be plug and play, and I don't want to hack into the stock wiring harness at all. I realize I'll have to buy some factory connectors, and I am OK with that. Additionally, I was hoping that by hooking the module up to it's own power source, I'd be helping to stop the electrical load the passenger window places on the driver window wiring (would my proposal below help that??).

I've attached the wiring schematic below. There are 4 wires, and this is how I would connect them. I believe this would be proper for the "passenger door passenger window switch" (we'll discuss the "driver door passenger switch" later) to work with the express down function. Can someone validate that this would work?

Brown (C) - I would plan to hook this to it's own 12V source (thus, hopefully no longer pulling a drain from the driver's side)
Grey (E) - Connect to window up switch on the passenger door.
Dark Blue (A) - For the motor, use the factory plug (since I have the complete harness). Connect to window down switch on passenger door.
Brown (D) - For the motor, use the factory plug (since I have the complete harness).

Assuming I am correct on the above, any thoughts on how I would tie the "driver's door passenger window switch" in? Would simply splicing the down position to terminal A and the up position to terminal D do the trick? I think it would, but this is a little over my head at this point.

If I am being totally asinine and my best bet is just to cut into the stock wiring like bfranker did, I'll do that. I just really prefer to leave the OEM wiring as unmolested as possible.

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

You can hook the brown wire on switch pin A to power input pin C on the express module. It comes direct from the windows circuit breaker so there is no problem with it "pulling a drain from the driver's side".

Switch pin B will be left as is.

Switch pin C will go to down request pin E on the express module.

Switch pin D will continue to go to the motor but you will need to splice into it to run a wire to the up request monitor pin A on the express module.

Switch pin E will be left as is.

Finally, you will have to run a new wire from pin D on the express module to the window motor to replace the brown wire from the switch that you redirected to pin E of the express module.

Leaving pins B and E at the passenger's window switch as they were will give you express operation from both doors (B and E are the switch inputs from the driver's door).

You can buy the connectors with pigtails from the dealer (or gmpartsdirect.com) and make your own harness:
12117399 - Express down module connector $36
12102779 - Window motor connector $16
12101915 - Right side window switch connector $25

 

Excellent, thank you!! I really appreciate the info.