Electrical tape to minimize resistance
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2013
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Electrical tape to minimize resistance I had somebody do some work on my car, he pulled the engine and broke the two wires going to the oil pressure switch and just taped it, now the gauge is reading crazy high oil pressures because of increased resistance. What tape can I use to isolate the wires from heat and all for the gauge to work properly?
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: SC
You can get a new pigtail and solder it to the wires and cover with heat shrink.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...oil%20pressure
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...oil%20pressure
Heat and electrical tape aren't a part of the equation? Maybe he just twisted them together and then taped them? If so, the twist is the issue.
The proper fix depends on where the cut is. How far from the connector are the wires cut? Did they just pull out of the connector?
If you just need to splice the wires, you need a mechanical crimp, heat shrink connector to get a strong, reliable, water tight connection. Soldering is something to be avoided unless its combined with a mechanical crimp. (Due to the vibrations a car's wiring is exposed to.)
The proper fix depends on where the cut is. How far from the connector are the wires cut? Did they just pull out of the connector?
If you just need to splice the wires, you need a mechanical crimp, heat shrink connector to get a strong, reliable, water tight connection. Soldering is something to be avoided unless its combined with a mechanical crimp. (Due to the vibrations a car's wiring is exposed to.)
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 57
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Yeah the guy is no electric so he just twisted them together and put tape on it. The wires ripped apart right next to the connector, but the problem is there is barely any space in there, unless I can manage to pull the wires to the top and fix the connection there. Still didn't take a look at it though.
I feel your pain: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ding-unit.html
There is no room to take any length off of that wire.
Can you post a pic?
You may need to get a new pigtail to get the extra length and use a mechanical crimp clip or a good butt splice.
There is no room to take any length off of that wire.
Can you post a pic?
You may need to get a new pigtail to get the extra length and use a mechanical crimp clip or a good butt splice.
Last edited by wssix99; Jul 19, 2013 at 05:39 AM.
Copy & Paste Moderator
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From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by wssix99
Soldering is something to be avoided unless its combined with a mechanical crimp. (Due to the vibrations a car's wiring is exposed to.)
A solder splice makes the strands of the wire solid and this issue comes in to effect. So mechanical stabilization/reinforcement is required. GM's wiring repair kit has special (they work really well) mechanical crimps for splicing wires, which have a port to inject solder, but the tools to use them properly are expensive. The crimps above do the job well with regular crimpers and will also make the joint water tight.
Cars do have a lot of solder, but they are restrained (by a circuit board, etc.) so they aren't effected by vibration as much. The biggest issue is with a traditional solder splice which is unreinforced.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I'm afraid I have to agree with VIP1 on this one. Solder and heat shrink for non-moving connections (such as a stereo harness) is not subject to metal fatigue (the "paper clip" effect you mentioned) because there is insufficient movement or vibration to cause fatigue over the normal life of the car.
Most connections that the average user will encounter fall into the same category. For example, even if you were adding an under hood light, the soldered connection would not normally be in the portion of the harness that moves when the hood opens - it would be cable tied to some stationary point under the hood.
I have used soldered connections on motorcycles for more than 30 years without a single failure and I think you'll agree that a motorcycle generally produces more vibration than cars. I'm just careful to ensure the connection is well insulated, watertight and solidly positioned on a frame member or similar support.
Most connections that the average user will encounter fall into the same category. For example, even if you were adding an under hood light, the soldered connection would not normally be in the portion of the harness that moves when the hood opens - it would be cable tied to some stationary point under the hood.
I have used soldered connections on motorcycles for more than 30 years without a single failure and I think you'll agree that a motorcycle generally produces more vibration than cars. I'm just careful to ensure the connection is well insulated, watertight and solidly positioned on a frame member or similar support.
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Verdad Gallardo Most connections that the average user will encounter fall into the same category. For example, even if you were adding an under hood light, the soldered connection would not normally be in the portion of the harness that moves when the hood opens - it would be cable tied to some stationary point under the hood.
I'd recommend a high reliability connection with this wire as its a real bitch to get to and securing it from movement/vibration would be hard. (Getting a soldering iron back there may not even be possible.) I've had to change my OPSU twice and never ever want to do it again. I can't even imagine trying to repair the connector wire with the engine in the car.
So, we are talking about an OPSU sensor wire here, which is not secured from movement along its full length and has a free run in the back of the engine bay. Are you saying that vibration will not fatigue a solidified section of wire?
I think a soldered connection isn't going to fatigue too much because it isn't a large section. The wire before and after the connection can flex and take up the vibrations and such.
Personally I've had more crimp barrel connections wiggle or pull loose than soldered connections, but they were crimped with a cheap single tooth "mash" crimp as I like to call it.
Personally I've had more crimp barrel connections wiggle or pull loose than soldered connections, but they were crimped with a cheap single tooth "mash" crimp as I like to call it.
This is a great point. Unless a high quality crimper is used, there's probably a higher likelihood of a problem with the crimp vs. solder cracking/fatigue.
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From: Eastern MA
We aren't talking about a wire that is flapping around so loose it could flex and tangle to that point. It will be fine. If it was really that bad, the wire would flex where it enters the crimp and snap at that point anyway making your concern moot. Most flex failures are not in the solder or crimp but where the wire enters the solder or crimp. So your concerns of breakage with solder also applies to crimp. Potentially moreso due to how the wires are pinched and stressed at point of entry to the crimp. A properly soldered and heat shrunk connection should survive just fine.