ThatOneKid

Hey all!

Today I investigated why only one of my speakers worked. I found out why.
The rear drivers side has been all redone with wires that you would use for subs, and its a pretty crappy job from what i can tell. The rear passenger side (as far as i can tell) is stock. The passenger side has the two little tab-like things (on the speaker), that just slide over two metal tabs on the speaker. The drivers side rear has a clip system thingamajig (on the speaker), and no little metal tabs. I'm assuming i'm in for a butt load of work to fix this mess.

I have yet to check on the front door speakers, I'll do that tomorrow. Hopefully they just aren't connected.

Also, I cant get any signal from my antenna. I know i did break the little connection that connects the head unit to the antenna. (It was an accident)
Will this be hard to fix?

Im thinking about just rewiring the whole sound system in the car, anyone know how hard this will be, or what all i'll need? Or should I just have a pro do it? And if i do have a pro do it, how much will it cost me ballpark?

Any and all advice is needed!
Details?
Thanks in advance!
-Liam

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

If you're planning on going completely aftermarket speakers / amps / HU, rewiring wouldnt be a bad idea if the previous owner FUBAR'd the OEM wires. Also, you'd be able to upgrade the quality of the wiring to help your sound system sound better. If you dont mind taking your interior apart, it wont be too bad.

TX98Z28

Post some pics of everything that is messed up.

ThatOneKid

Pewterformula: Im not really looking to upgrade, im just looking to fix what all is messed up. Is it hard to do what im wanting to do? I was already going to pull all of the interior for cleaning.

Tx: pics will be coming, either tomorrow evening, or the day after.

TX98Z28

If you decided to redo the entire system let us know your goals and budget. I just dropped $1600 on mine and thats with good deals on everything.

ThatOneKid

Tx:

My goals: have a system for the "best bang for your buck"

budget: cheap as possible, but not total crap.

TX98Z28

The more pics the better. I would definitely get everything fixed first. It would be the cheapest option as far as price goes. Redoing everything can get expensive.

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

based on what you posted, i agree. just fix what needs to be fixed. post up pictures like suggested, but also look at other posts regarding schematics and stuff. if you need a scan of a specific schematic in the service manual, hit me up in the next 10 days or so before i go back to work and i'll see if i can scan it for you

TX98Z28

Is your HU stock or after market? Just curious. After pewterformula and me get you fixed up, we will look at more options for your system.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Also, is your system the factory Bose? That will make a big difference in how much you can mix and match stock and aftermarket components.

ThatOneKid

Tx: my HU is some sort of Kenwood one, not really sure what model it is, never really bothered to check.

Whitebird: I think so, i'll check the window sticker later on today during lunch. The back two speakers that I looked at last night are Bose, so i'd assume i do have the factory bose system. not sure if its the 3 or the 5...

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

Aha! I didnt even pay attention to the year in your sig. (Bose vs Monsoon vs standard speakers). I have service manuals for 1999, so I seriously doubt the wiring would even be similar on a 93. Sorry man The Bose is probably going to play a factor. Does your bose speakers have the individual amplifiers on the speakers? I had a Maxima years ago - it did, and I had to change out all the speakers for it to sound good with aftermarket HU.

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

Still take pictures if you can of whats messed up and post them

ThatOneKid

PF: the one speaker that does work sounds pretty decent with the aftermarket HU. I dont know if they have the individual amps on the speakers, what would those amps look like? I apologize, this is only my second time messing with car audio stuff, i'd much rather be rebuilding a tranny.

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

Usually there will be a square box on the back of the speaker in addition to the magnet, at least on the Nissan I had 15 years ago. If not, there may be one near by the speaker hidden in a panel or something.

ThatOneKid

PF: I dont remember seeing a separate box on/near the speaker. I'll look for those tonight.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

If you have rear speakers, it must be the 5-speaker variation. The 3-speaker version had door speakers and a sub in the left rear hatch area. The 5-speaker version had door and sail panel (back seat) speakers plus the sub in the left rear hatch area.

All of the speakers in the Camaro Bose system had individual amps attached that took high impedance, low voltage signal from the special Bose head unit (basically, it's headphone signal to the individual amps). You can run a normal head unit but you should use an adapter such as the PAC OEM-1 or you will find that the volume **** ramps up very quickly and starts distorting long before reaching maximum volume.

TX98Z28

OP, I also didn't realize your car was a 93. Just listen to everything WhiteBird says, he's the man when it comes to car stereo & electronics on this site.

ThatOneKid

Whitebird: Thanks! I kinda figured out what system I had when I got home yesterday and counted. The HU in the car now has some special harness on it, what i'll assume is the PAC OEM-1, because when I turn the volume up on the one speaker that is working, it doesnt get distorted or anything, it just sounds like a 20 year old speaker.

ThatOneKid

IF any of the speakers decide they dont want to work, I'm thinking I'll use these as a replacement. Cheap, I know, but I dont really want a killer system, just something I can tolerate.

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